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U.S. Peavey Club

A tber (Kevin) mailed me his late (vflish) dyna 5

Played it at band practice -totally forgot how nice they are -- if not "bass boat blue" I'd beg it off him

I've got so many white, and black axes that this '89 Dyna 5 color (w/ Super Ferrites) works for me...
Not sure if it's bass boat blue, or not. ;) It's actually darker than this 'flash' photo.
 

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I have owned three USA Peaveys over the years, a white T-40, a black Axcelerator 5 which I defretted, and a second generation TL-5, which I still have. The first two I bought new and later sold.
The TL-5 I got off the bay at a very good price.

There is an e-bay seller in GA who has some NOS USA Peaveys.

In my opinion, it's hard to go wrong with a USA Peavey, but I refuse to buy an imported one.

No bone to pick with Peavey. Over the years, they did a lot of good things. They had to go offshore after everyone else did and were one of the last ones to do so. I just refuse to play or own an imported bass.
 
I'm not really sure that's a true statement (about not holding value) - at least not any more. Most brands (Fender being the notable exception) lose nearly 50% of their original price as soon as they get to the Used market. The only US Peaveys you can look at nowadays is Cirrus. And those now seem to be bringing more than 50% of new price on the used market. Way more.

All other US Peavey basses have been out of production so long you can't really compare current used prices to original prices to draw much a conclusion about how they are CURRENTLY holding their value.
 
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I posted this in the Short Scale thread Part 3 but want to show it off here since it does have a Super Ferrite PU. Started this one last year but have just recently finished it up due to life getting in the way. Tele guitar size body I carved from a basswood back with maple cap, 25 5/8" scale seven string guitar neck, Peavey Super Ferrite PU, passive low-mid- high controls with a mute switch. There's a gain stage after the tone controls to bring the output up. Tuners are guitar tuners that have had the hole enlarged for the bigger strings. Tunes to standard pitch, BEADG (.130-.050). Made the aluminum bridge, plastic top nut and other necessary hardware.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the peg head. The black stripe is removable tape. The silver strip on the PU is also tape. Sounds good at home and I'll have the opportunity to try it live next week.

I dinged the back pretty good while trying to get some pics so I didn't take any of it.

mech
 
Peavey USA bass are fantastic but unfortunately they don't hold there value. I've had many through the years and can say they definitely are a players bass

I'm not sure what that statement means.



Regarding value, I do agree with Stuart V. Peavey products don't do much worse on the used market than most brands. In fact, many boutique brands fare worse than Peavey when it comes to resale.

For example - I was watching a Stambaugh bass on ebay a few weeks back. The bass sold for $630. That bass cost the original owner at LEAST $1,800. That's a 66% hit! Not uncommon at all for basses like that.
 
I'm not sure what that statement means.



Regarding value, I do agree with Stuart V. Peavey products don't do much worse on the used market than most brands. In fact, many boutique brands fare worse than Peavey when it comes to resale.

For example - I was watching a Stambaugh bass on ebay a few weeks back. The bass sold for $630. That bass cost the original owner at LEAST $1,800. That's a 66% hit! Not uncommon at all for basses like that.

I've said it once, and I'll say it again. Even Mica at Alembic told me from her own mouth - A new Alembic that costs let's say $5,500 immediately drops to about $1,500 used. That's a 74% depreciation rate !!!

Now, look at the asking (and selling prices) of USA Cirrus's. MSRP was $1,699, but new was about $1,499. They are selling for around $1,000 give or take a few hundred depending on factors like wood combo and day of auction if it's ebay. That is only about a 20%-30% depreciation rate on a bass that up to 10 years old !! Only a Lamborghini or Ferrari has those kind of stats !
 
Some of you might remember the Fury I refinished last year. Recently discovered that the lacquer had reacted with the covering on an guitar stand I had been using.

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Looks like I've got some work ahead of me. Fortunately, and assuming I can sand this down without hitting the color, lacquer melts into itself. Hoping I can get it back to where it was.

Shortly after I got the second Fury stripped my compressor blew up. Too old to get parts for it, so my refinishing work has been on hold. Looks like I've got more reason to spend some money on a compressor now.
 
Any time I get a new stand I put duct tape or some other jury-rigged coating on the foam because I've had a few instruments get "melted" finish, usually anything with nitrocellouse, the worst was the neck of a strat I built. Had to sand the whole finish off it and get it redone as it "melted" all the way to the wood.

All because of stupid cheap foam :scowl:
 
I purchased my first cirrus on ebay about 4 months ago. I'm very happy with its playability and tone but have been totally unable to figure out the year it was made or the wood used in its composition. I was hoping maybe a glimpse of it might enable someone here to recognize it or that maybe one of you could point me in the right direction. Serial # is 11433534 if that helps. Thanks.

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Year would probably be post 2005 (exact year is trivial)

Looks to be glossed wenge w/ maple & walnut stringers

There's a peavey wiki--- the company will refer you to it.... Nice looking bass (most like this are oil finished)

Serial numbers

Serial numbers correlate to shipping dates of US models only. 1978 to 1995. Imports designated by EX, EXP, or BXP are not serialized by year. For more recent US serial numbers, please contact Peavey Customer Service.

8Mxxxxxx ............................................1978
0000xxxx t/m 0030xxxx ........................1978
0031xxxx t/m 0047xxxx ........................1979
0048xxxx t/m 0065xxxx ........................1980
0066xxxx t/m 0099xxxx ........................1981
0100xxxx t/m 0129xxxx ........................1982
0130xxxx t/m 0169xxxx ........................1983
0170xxxx t/m 0199xxxx ........................1984
0200xxxx t/m 0239xxxx ........................1985
0240xxxx t/m 0259xxxx ........................1986
0260xxxx t/m 0339xxxx ........................1987
0340xxxx t/m 0359xxxx ........................1988
0360xxxx t/m 0419xxxx ........................1989
0420xxxx t/m 0439xxxx ........................1990
0440xxxx t/m 0519xxxx ........................1991
0520xxxx t/m 0599xxxx ........................1992
0600xxxx t/m 0639xxxx ........................1993
0640xxxx t/m 0769xxxx ........................1994
0770xxxx >>.........................................1995
 
Received a pm about setting ultra low action (they played one I setup via mail order)

1-arrow straight neck
2-quality balanced strings
3-string tree
4-geometry
5-touch
6-strobe


Strings.......
I've yet to find a bass that I could get any of the long lines of "I love my...." or "best" strings to work....

Seems as if "balanced.... Exposed core... Stainless" work easiest


Geometry
This is the toughest part.... Takes 6-10 resets to get everything synced ........ (Note you can't get low action on a millenium without shims)


Sustain
There's a geometry point that will add ~30%. I rarely ship them like this as most people insist on their strings and/or will not learn a light touch


Shipping
I'll commonly try to find a balance between "optimal" and the player. About 30% of the time do I dare setup chapman stick action.


Time
I plan on a week to setup a bass ... Takes a few attempts to get geometry ready.... Takes a few days to have strings naturally set in.... Half hour to get intonation set


Hope this helps as there's tons of misinformation on the Internet