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Using two amps.

I understand the desire to tinker, but you're starting with two mismatched amps and trying to get an acceptable result. Just play through the Ampeg and adjust the EQ controls to taste. It used to be a thing where people would play through a bass amp and a guitar amp (See Ric 4003), but that's rarely done now as we have far better amps and really good OD / distortion pedals.
 
I like the idea, i would bag the little amp and go with something that would keep up with the ampeg better though.
I have a lot of gear that has collected through the years.
My favorite setup was a tri amp scenario that i cobbled together.
I split my signal with a big muff pedal that has 2 outs(clean and dirty) (( acted like a y split)).
The clean signal went to a carvin bi amp.. lows to 15” cab, mids and highs to a 4x10 cab( yah yah, iv seen the posts about this combo... sounded pretty good to me though).
The dirty signal went to a SWR running a 12” cab.
I was able to keep my clean tasty tone and click in some grit without losing anything.
This obviously was not portable and mostly a basement experiment but man it was a bit of awesome!
Now im running a mesa subway on 2ohm running 2x15 cabs...
Mr @agedhorse , nicely done!!

I guess my point is, play around with gear, you’ll find something that works for you.
 
Back in my guitar playing days...before the earth cooled...I used two amps together. Here was how I did it.

I had a Marshall 2x12 that had a great dirty tone and great lead tone, but the clean channel was lacking. Hey, it was a Marshall. So, for clean I used a Fender Champion 1x10. I ran two foot switches: the Marshall switch and the a single footswitch for the Fender. I set the Fender with the dirty channel off, and the clean channel up, and opposite for the Marshall, with the two buttons next to each other on the floor. I want to go from clean to crunch, I step on the Fender switch, and vice versa for going from dirty to clean. If I wanted both (and I used both together quite a bunch) I stepped on the one to add in. It worked and sounded awesome. It did take some time to get the levels set, but once it was set it was a really cool tone.

BnB
 
I’ve used two different amps many times together on stage. The biggest one behind me and another one on the other side of the stage as a satellite, long as whoever is set up over there doesn’t mind. :thumbsup:
Full range dual mono or stereo if you want. Saved the bi-amps for the PA system.
 
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This controls the tweeter level.
View attachment 4136114
I believe the woofer in your amp is run full range, as in there is no crossover to limit the high frequencies sent to the woofer.

The tweeter has a high pass filter. It does exactly what it sounds like...only high frequencies are allowed to pass. This is necessary because tweeters can not handle low frequencies. The control attenuates the signal sent to the tweeter. If you turn it all the way CCW, the attenuation is infinite. In other words the tweeter should be completely cut off.

This right here. If you turn it all the way and it makes no difference in your high end, it is possible the little horn in the upper corner is blown. I have had that happen with other ampeg cabinets in the past. If so, it is relatively cheap to replace that speaker. I really see no reason to mess around trying to get that little Peavey combo blended in with the Ampeg. It sounds like an unnecessarily complicated setup.

Also, that 5 position knob on the Ampeg is not a channel switch. It is a set of different EQ curves you should try switching through to see if one of them gets you closer to what you are looking for.
Position 1 is not flat.

Position 1 has the mids scooped out.
Position 2 has the mids scooped to a lesser degree.
Position 3 is flat
Position 4 has a gentle high end boost
Position 5 has a a high pass filter (lowest lows decreased).
 
I will also support the notion of just keep the amps separate and possibly in two different places in your abode so you can be reminded to practice more. Tinkering is fun and I fully support it-I'm an incessant tinkerer.
However, with those two amps, your best bet would be parallel processing, like using the Ampeg as your primary amp and adding some grit or modulation to the smaller amp and dialing it to taste. However, don't lose sight that it's all about practice and skill building first.
Having two amps is ideal. When you play with bands, it's nice to have the amp at home and another at the practice space. No need to move stuff around unnecessarily!
 
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Yeah, there's no need to have highs on one amp and lows on another. Most folks on here only use one amp at a time. Any good bass speaker is going to be able to handle the full range of frequencies.

Of course, there are different flavors, etc, but you said you like both amps. Great! Put one in your music room, and one in your bedroom :)
 
I used to do this when I had a mess of cheap guitar pedals that removed any low end from my bass when run into my bass amp (an SWR Working Man's 15). I had a Guitar combo amp (I think a Dean Markley RM-40) stacked on top of my bass amp. I ran the bass amp full range, did not EQ the highs away. Ran the SWR tuner out into my combo amp , and dialed out all the bass on the guitar amp. I ran all my cheapo guitar pedals into the guitar amp and had an unadulterated bass signal. I thought it sounded pretty good.

You ampeg has no tuner out, but the balanced lien out might work if you have the cable for it (XLR female -to 1/4" male).
 
To all of you naysayers: The OP will learn a lot more from trying this little experiment out, than not. He already has the amps and the cable is on the way. IMHO the best thing to do is patch everything together and see what happens for himself. If he has pedals, there are lot's of other follow on experiments he could run as well. I personally think he could be on a great journey of exploration. Or maybe he will think it sucks and was a waste of time. Either way, he learns something.
 
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Ok, I want to use both of these to play through at same time. I ordered a y splitter should be here tomorrow. The big amp is a Ampeg BA 115Hp the little one is a 15 watt Peavy 10" speaker just a basic practice bass amp. Both have three band equalizers. Ampeg has more to it with 6 setting. One being a cleani channel or dry channel. The other five I really am not sure what they are gives me a basic description in the book. I want to use the little one for highs and the big one for Lows. Somebody told me to take all the highs out of the big ones and all of lows out of the little one. My question is the mids. Do I wipe them out of either amp or do I keep them in. As far as some setting in there. Because both sound really good. At the current time I'm using just a box stump lab IB multi-effect. Though I do have a boss OD. I think together they would sound awesome.View attachment 4135958 View attachment 4135959 View attachment 4135958 View attachment 4135958 View attachment 4135959
This topic seems to come up in different threads from time to time. It seems timely to me right now, because I'm experimenting with a similar thing. I have several amps -- some head/cab and some combo. I play 6-sting, so I cover a wide frequency. It would be nice to have a big fat boomy bottom and also enough punch and definition to insert high-end fills or chord jabs that don't get swallowed up. Doing this with one amp is difficult, because the sounds interfere, either in the amp or in the speaker cab. Lately, I used a Boss DD-7, which has a mode allowing a mono input to be split into two outputs. In my case, I add a small amount of delay to one of the outputs while the other is completely dry. I thought the delay might intensify the separation between amps, but it really doesn't produce much useful result.
In my practice space, I'm running the delayed signal to a Fender 100 combo with 15 that has never had much high end. I'm turning bass control up and cutting the treble. It sounds mushy and boomy and great on the low-pitched strings. The dry signal goes to a Hartke HD75 10 with flat EQ, except a bass is about -3dB. It has nice definition when I play double stops or snap the high strings. This seems to do what I want to do. I'm thinking of moving the concept to a pair of bigger amps for a gig (whenever that might happen).
I agree with commenters who say that balancing is a problem. (Seems like the major issue to me.)
Also, some people seem to think that signal phasing could be a problem. Electrical signal phasing and phase interference of acoustic waves in a 3D space are two entirely different things. Acoustic phasing is unlikely to lead to any practical issue. No one ever says "I will NOT allow the FOH to reinforce the sound from my onstage amp, because phase differences might kill my sound." That's largely because audible wavelengths are small compared to the size of most rooms, and because the wavelength is different for every individual frequency.
 
If you read (most of) the comments accurately, parallel path processing can cause phase response issues in the electrical signal path that can then result in acoustic issues related to that phase response.

As a (simplistic) practical example, one signal path inverts the signal compared with the other, when played through 2 identical speakers will result in ACOUSTIC problems with the response (low frequency cancellation).

As a (less simplistic) example, say one signal path has a DSP based processor with 10mSec of latency (or delay) and is acoustically combined with an identical signal with no latency. The resulting ACOUSTICALLY combined signal will contain comb filtering artifacts that may or may not be problematic.

I deal with this stuff on a daily basis, so perhaps I understand the details of what's going on more than others, but it's a very real thing.

To clarify, note that this applies to identical signals (ie. a signal split from a single source), called coherent signals. Different signals (non-coherent) do not necessarily apply.
 
This topic seems to come up in different threads from time to time. It seems timely to me right now, because I'm experimenting with a similar thing. I have several amps -- some head/cab and some combo. I play 6-sting, so I cover a wide frequency. It would be nice to have a big fat boomy bottom and also enough punch and definition to insert high-end fills or chord jabs that don't get swallowed up. Doing this with one amp is difficult, because the sounds interfere, either in the amp or in the speaker cab. Lately, I used a Boss DD-7, which has a mode allowing a mono input to be split into two outputs. In my case, I add a small amount of delay to one of the outputs while the other is completely dry. I thought the delay might intensify the separation between amps, but it really doesn't produce much useful result.
In my practice space, I'm running the delayed signal to a Fender 100 combo with 15 that has never had much high end. I'm turning bass control up and cutting the treble. It sounds mushy and boomy and great on the low-pitched strings. The dry signal goes to a Hartke HD75 10 with flat EQ, except a bass is about -3dB. It has nice definition when I play double stops or snap the high strings. This seems to do what I want to do. I'm thinking of moving the concept to a pair of bigger amps for a gig (whenever that might happen).
I agree with commenters who say that balancing is a problem. (Seems like the major issue to me.)
Also, some people seem to think that signal phasing could be a problem. Electrical signal phasing and phase interference of acoustic waves in a 3D space are two entirely different things. Acoustic phasing is unlikely to lead to any practical issue. No one ever says "I will NOT allow the FOH to reinforce the sound from my onstage amp, because phase differences might kill my sound." That's largely because audible wavelengths are small compared to the size of most rooms, and because the wavelength is different for every individual frequency.


Sorry to be blunt, but much of what you are saying is just flat out wrong. Often when people are talking about phase they actually mean polarity. So when they say a cab is out of phase, they mean it is out of polarity.

When a signal is out of polarity the sign wave is flipped 180 degrees.
upload_2021-2-1_14-16-29.png


If you were to overlay these two signals they would cancel out.

If you summed them electronically. They cancellation would be almost perfect. If you summed the signals acoustically the cancellation is less perfect because the sound is not coming from the same location.

Depending upon the distance between the sound sources, and where you are standing, the cancellation will be different. Different terms such as lobing and comb filtering are used to describe what happens. But they are really just different ways of describing the same destructive interference patterns. If you are curious, please take a look at the attached "bass array guide."

Another thing, phase differences can be small or extremely large. For example you may have a phase difference of a few degrees or of several wavelengths. The phase differences can be time based, in other words one sound source is delayed with respect to the other, or physically displaced with the respect to the other so sound from two sound sources arrives at the listener at two different times.

There are also instantaneous phase variances. For example with crossovers you have two filters sections, a high pass filter (HPF) and a low pass filter (LPF). Within the effective range of the crossover there are instantaneous phase variances that are determined by the slope of the crossover filters. For example with a 48dB per octave filter you get 720 degrees of phase shift. To make it even more complicated, the phase leads in one of the filters and lags in the other filter, so you get 360 degrees of shift in the HPF and 360 degree of shift in the LPF. Ideally the filters are designed and aligned so their phase response is complementary or matches. If this does not occur it causes dispersion problems throughout the crossover region.

Also, loudspeakers do not have perfect phase response. If you were to look at the phase response of a typical speaker, as the frequency is moving from high to low, you will see that the phase constantly changes. The rate at which phase changes varies from one speaker design to the next. Here is an old TB thread if you are interested: Mixing Cabinets and Phase Response.


I have not read it, and I don't claim it's a great thread, but the first post does have some decent graphics.
Here is the first phase chart from the thread:
2012sealed-jpg.jpg



Based on what you wrote in your post, my guess is you want a good quality extended range bass cab. Multi-amping is generally something people use when they want to run a clean amp and a distorted amp.

Biamping is something we used to do a long time ago to try and get more of a HiFi sound with extended range. But current amplifier and speaker designs are better than most people can do with biamping.

A lot of engineering goes into a modern speaker. When you assemble a biamp or triamp rig, you are most likely just cobbling together random components rather than selecting components that will really work well together. Also unless you really have the skills and tools to properly align and tune the rig, you are not really putting the necessary design into the system to make it perform at the level of a good modern full range bass rig. IMHO it's possible to still get superior performance out of an active bass rig, but it will expensive, heavy, large, and you need the necessary expertise.

Good luck on your journey!
 

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Something cool that you can explore with this setup is parallel processing. Try running a heavier distortion peal in front of the Peavey and try a compressor in front of the Ampeg. Also I suggest try adding a light OD in line with the Compressor. Try other effects as well.

Wondering if you have any experience with parallel processing 2 pickups (à la Rick-O-Sound) versus splitting a mono signal with a crossover?

I'm considering modifying my bass with separate outputs for the bridge and neck pickups. The appearrent advantage would be that on can parallel process two pickups each having its own distinctive harmonic balance. However, I'm wondering if it's really worth the effort? I know some people just take the mono signal out of their bass, split it with a crossover and then parallel process. Would the 2 pickup scenario offer any significant difference in the richness and/or flexibility of the parallel processing? Would there be enough of an audible difference to make it worthwhile?
 
Wondering if you have any experience with parallel processing 2 pickups (à la Rick-O-Sound) versus splitting a mono signal with a crossover?

I'm considering modifying my bass with separate outputs for the bridge and neck pickups. The appearrent advantage would be that on can parallel process two pickups each having its own distinctive harmonic balance. However, I'm wondering if it's really worth the effort? I know some people just take the mono signal out of their bass, split it with a crossover and then parallel process. Would the 2 pickup scenario offer any significant difference in the richness and/or flexibility of the parallel processing? Would there be enough of an audible difference to make it worthwhile?

My first bass was a Ric 4001. I ran Ric-O-Sound before I transitioned to a full Biamp rig.

I did feel that it had some merit. Use a Yamaha B100 combo amp with a 15" driver for the neck pickup. I stacked a blackface Fender Twin Reverb loaded with JBL E120 on top for the neck pickup. So I had a vertical array.

Although I think this provides some interesting sonic possibilities, keep in mind the hassles of carting and setting up two different amps. Also the hassles of balancing the sound of the two different amps.

The Rick 4001 has a tone cap on the bridge pickup that serves as an HPF. This can be an important element if you are using drastically different cabs that don't get along in the low end.

Rather than going through the hassle of modding a bass, I might be more inclined to see if I can try and find a Ric where I can run a few experiments. Only you can decide if it's worth the efforts.

I would caution against the idea of thinking of this as a stereo effect. You really don't want to separate your cabs (IMHO) as that will create phase cancellation and comb filtering. Also the effect is not really that profound.
 
Rather than going through the hassle of modding a bass, I might be more inclined to see if I can try and find a Ric where I can run a few experiments. Only you can decide if it's worth the efforts.

I would caution against the idea of thinking of this as a stereo effect. You really don't want to separate your cabs (IMHO) as that will create phase cancellation and comb filtering. Also the effect is not really that profound.
I'm buying a SBMM Short Scale and plan to mod it anyway. It's just a matter of deciding how far I want to take it. And I fully agree this isn't a stereo thing. I'm thinking of it in terms of high/low parallel processing. In fact, I'll probably sum the signals together at the end and use just one amp.
 
I'm buying a SBMM Short Scale and plan to mod it anyway. It's just a matter of deciding how far I want to take it. And I fully agree this isn't a stereo thing. I'm thinking of it in terms of high/low parallel processing. In fact, I'll probably sum the signals together at the end and use just one amp.

I tried running Ric-O-Sound into Channels 1 and 2 of my SVT and to be honest, it didn't seem all that different from running the composite signal through Channel 1. Others have suggested a different experience.

If you add distortion to one channel and run one channel clean, I could definitely see an argument in favor though.

The best advice is experiment and have fun along the way. Whether it works or not, you learn something.
 
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