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Vintage Modern Build

That's a really nice technique, not to mention a well thought out rationale for doing it that way.

How wide did you need to cut the slots? I am amazed that you didn't have to spend any time grinding on frets to level them out.

You should tell us all the name of the epoxy you are using so we don't buy the one that flashed off so quick.

Excellent work.
 
Thanks! Of course if I used a different method I'm sure I could come up with a rationale for that too! :D

When I read that repair book it seemed like an idea worth trying because I had trouble with excessive back bow on a couple mandolins and acoustic guitars I built right around that time. I used the Stew-Mac #150 fret wire, and a .030" end mill. I think .032" or .033" would be even better and that's what I'll try next time. I tried a .035" on fret #23 and thought it fit a little too easy.

I'm not sure yet that I would be leveling the frets, the straightedge reads good, but the strings will tell me if there is a random high or low spot. If I do have to level though, it should be a very light cut.

I've used a bunch of different epoxies and only had trouble twice. The time I mentioned before where it set up fast, I don't remember what epoxy that was, and one time where it never fully set up. That was Loc-Tite 90 minute like you get at Home Depot. The epoxy I used this time has been very consistent every time I've used it, so if I can find it again it will be my go to for this job. It set up slow and steady over the course of a couple hours. It didn't kick suddenly like a lot of them do.

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This is the black epoxy I used for inlay. Much easier than wood glue and shavings if you are inlaying in ebony:

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The Smith Group, huh? :)

Do you think that UHU would be good for a grain filler? does it dry clear enough?
Damn, no one was supposed notice that! Truth is this thread is just a front for my epoxy company.:laugh:

Looks like both those epoxies are almost impossible to get now. :rollno: The last time I bought the black epoxy was probably 12 years ago. I bought about 6-8 of them and really don't use a lot. After posting that I went online to find it and if you can find it the price has more has tripled, it's at least $25. I think I'd still buy it or find another black epoxy though. So much easier than refilling pin holes in wood glue and sawdust five times. The other one is from Germany and looks like you can get it through Amazon in the double barrel version.

I've never used epoxy as a grain filler. Building mainly with maple I don't have a lot of experience with fillers.
 
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I think I was answer about the wrong router bit, you mean the one for cutting the tangs?

For the tangs I use the 1/2" diameter 1/2" shank accupro on this page:

Invalid Link Removed

I think you could easily use a straight cut carbide tipped wood rout bit which would be much cheaper at $14, like number 1066 on this page:

Whiteside Router Bits from Woodworkersworld.net--Straight router bit
 
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I think I was answer about the wrong router bit, you mean the one for cutting the tangs?

For the tangs I use the 1/2" diameter 1/2" shank accupro on this page:

Invalid Link Removed

I think you could easily use a straight cut carbide tipped wood rout bit which would be much cheaper at $14, like number 1066 on this page:

Whiteside Router Bits from Woodworkersworld.net--Straight router bit

That makes sense. I would be a bit nervous about using a straight cut wood bit on a metal fret tang. It seems like there would be a lot of opportunity for something to go wrong.
 
I concur wholeheartedly with all of the accolades. Builds like this one are simultaneously inspiring and sobering. I feel like a complete hack by comparison!

(But I mean that in a good way. :) )
 
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I concur wholeheartedly with all of the accolades. Builds like this one are simultaneously inspiring and sobering. I feel like a complete hack by comparison!

(But I mean that in a good way. :) )

Thanks! I really appreciate the kind words. I'm thinking maybe I should end this build after I do the sunburst stain and go out on a high note. It's been 15 years since I used lacquer. All I've done since is oil based varnish applied with a brush, so my spraying and buffing skills are sure to be rusty. :sour: In fact, I got rid of all my buffing equipment years ago and am putting together a new buffing rig because I don't plan on doing much varnishing anymore. Hopefully once I start the finishing process things won't get exciting in a bad way!
 
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Flexible Scraper:

You only need a couple things:
-a piece of spring tempered steel the right thickness
-sheet metal cutter
-file
-sharpening stones, I use a coarse diamond stone, a fine diamond stone and a dual sided water stone with 4000 grit on one side and 8000 on the other.

A long time ago I bought a variety pack of spring tempered shim stock and have been using it for making flexible scrapers. For flexible scrapers the best thickness goes from .015" - .030", and the single best IMO is .020". Luckily, you don't need to buy a whole package of shim stock to get a piece of steel. The Exacto razor saw in the picture is made from .020" spring steel, will work well. I don't know the exact model since I tore off most of the packaging, but it's 7" x 2.5" or so, and you could get a couple scrapers out of one blade. You may even have an old dull blade sitting around you could use.


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Cut one edge straight:
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Put it in a vice with some wood to protect it and file that edge straight. If your cutters are old and dull like mine they may make the steel curl a bit when you cut. You'll know that you've filed enough off the edge when it straightens back out.
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Cut it to rough shape. The new one is on the bottom.
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Flatten one side. This is very important and is easily the part that takes the longest. The back of the scraper near the cutting edge has to be perfectly flat or you will never be able to get a good edge. A coarse diamond stone is the best tool for this job. Doesn't need to be a big one, 6"-7" will do.
DSC02311.JPG


This is after a few minutes on a coarse diamond stone. The whole back does not need to be flat, but the part along the cutting edge does. The blue along the edge means more flattening.
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After a few minutes on a fine diamond stone it's obvious there is some more work to be done. You can see where the scraper is not flat near the edge. Back to the coarse stone.
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Completely flat near the edge, done with the diamond stones. Now do the same thing on the 4000 and 8000 grit waterstones.
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This is what you end up with:
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Go back to the coarse diamond stone and holding the scraper like this, put a 45 degree bevel on one edge going 1/2 way around each corner. It helps to flex it a little and just rock your wrist forward and back. You will know you are done when you can feel a burr form on the back edge (the flat side, where my thumb is in the picture). Make sure you feel this burr along the whole edge, all the way along the straight part and 1/2 way around each corner. Now is when you need to start being careful handling the scraper because it's getting sharp.
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Put the scraper flat side down on the 8000 grit stone and remove the burr.
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Go back and re-do the bevel on the fine diamond stone until you have a burr again, then remove the burr again on the 8000 stone. Now the final honing of the cutting edge is done on the 8000 stone. Tilt the blade just a tiny bit more than you did when making the bevel on the diamond stone. You don't need to sharpen the whole edge from the front to the back. Since you are holding the blade at a slightly steeper angle you only need to sharpen a tiny bit right at the edge. Make sure you go 1/2 way around each corner to sharpen that also.

Then, place the flat face down on the 8000 stone and give it a few strokes. Hold it at an angle one more time and give a few strokes, then face down again and hopefully you are done.
DSC02319.JPG


Give it the fingernail test all along the blade. Holding it almost flat against your fingernail push gently. The blade should immediately grab your fingernail. If it slides across without biting you need to go back a step and re-hone.
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Once it bites it's as sharp as any chisel or plane blade so be careful.
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This is a scraper burnisher. It's just a piece of hardened tool steel. You can buy one or you can just use something like a socket wrench extension which works fine. I put this in a vise.

DSC02323.JPG
 
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The goal here is to take that very sharp edge you just made, and without ruining it, roll it over so it forms a hook.

Using two hands (you won't have a camera in the other one hopefully) and starting at about the same angle as the angle you put on the bevel, push the scraper against the burnisher lightly and drag it from one end to the other. You can start in the middle and go in each direction or go from one end to the other. Make sure to go around the corners. Do a couple strokes in each direction, then slowly increase the angle and the amount of pressure you put on the burnisher. Keep going until you are almost but not quite at 90 degrees to the burnisher and putting a fair amount of pressure on the scraper.

In the picture the flat side is up.

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That's it. The scraper should be ready to use. It can take a few time to get the hang of burnishing, figuring out what angle and how much pressure, but after a few tries it gets pretty easy. The neck in the pictures is hard maple, and this scraper has no problem with any wood unless it's very soft, like balsa. It' cuts through cocobolo and wenge no problem.

That little curly-q was from just barely pushing the blade against the wood and drawing it from the heel to almost the nut.

DSC02325.JPG
 
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The goal here is to take that very sharp edge you just made, and without ruining it, roll it over so it forms a hook.

Using two hands (you won't have a camera in the other one hopefully) and starting at about the same angle as the angle you put on the bevel, push the scraper against the burnisher lightly and drag it from one end to the other. You can start in the middle and go in each direction or go from one end to the other. Make sure to go around the corners. Do a couple strokes in each direction, then slowly increase the angle and the amount of pressure you put on the burnisher. Keep going until you are almost but not quite at 90 degrees to the burnisher and putting a fair amount of pressure on the scraper.

In the picture the flat side is up.

View attachment 640964

That's it. The scraper should be ready to use. It can take a few time to get the hang of burnishing, figuring out what angle and how much pressure, but after a few tries it gets pretty easy. The neck in the pictures is hard maple, and this scraper has no problem with any wood unless it's very soft, like balsa. It' cuts through cocobolo and wenge no problem.

That little curly-q was from just barely pushing the blade against the wood and drawing it from the heel to almost the nut.

View attachment 640965

Wow! That's a lot of work for a scraper, I admire your dedication :)

I just sharpen mine on a 1200 stone, instant burr ;) probably not as effective as your method, but works for me.
 
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Wow! That's a lot of work for a scraper, I admire your dedication :)

I just sharpen mine on a 1200 stone, instant burr ;) probably not as effective as your method, but works for me.

Yeah, there a a bunch of ways to sharpen a scraper depending on the kind of scraper and the job you want to do from heavy coarse work to fine. I use these flexible scrapers for finish work so they get the full sharpening like any other edge tool. If my diamond stones were even in half way decent shape it would take about an hour to make one start to finish, then about 3 or 4 minutes to sharpen and turn the edge when it gets dull and they last for years and years.
 
Thanks very much for the scraper tutorial.
I'm not concerned by how much effort it takes to create a proper scraper. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
After seeing how much sanding was NOT required on your neck build, I am sold.
Looks like a solid trade to me - a couple hours of scraper build vs. a lifetime of sanding - we have a winner.
 
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Thanks very much for the scraper tutorial.
I'm not concerned by how much effort it takes to create a proper scraper. Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
After seeing how much sanding was NOT required on your neck build, I am sold.
Looks like a solid trade to me - a couple hours of scraper build vs. a lifetime of sanding - we have a winner.

Right up until you turn the edge it's the exact same process as getting any other edge tool ready for use. I haven't bought a hand plane in a long time, but getting those ready to use is whole process that takes a good 6-8 hours. Once you do that it works so much better and sharpening the blade only take a few minutes after that. Same goes for spokeshaves it you have one, flatten the back of the blade, sharpen the front, file down the bed, lap the cap and sole and ready to go.
 
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