• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Wal Bass Club.

Yes, the signature is "Wal", thats Ian Waller's sig.
But there wasnt one builder, the signature is merely the person who did some final assembly, inspected it, and signed it off. That's not who built the entire instrument. They had quite a few employees in those days.

Understood, but even so, I think it’s pretty cool to have one from the original (or damn close) Wal era, better with Ian’s sign off!

It’s got some mojo ;-)
 
Yes, the signature is "Wal", thats Ian Waller's sig.
But there wasnt one builder, the signature is merely the person who did some final assembly, inspected it, and signed it off. That's not who built the entire instrument. They had quite a few employees in those days.

There's a fair chance that my '85 Pro 1 fretless was built entirely by apprentices.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Caca de Kick
View attachment 3104488 View attachment 3104489 View attachment 3104490 View attachment 3104491 View attachment 3104492 View attachment 3104493 View attachment 3104494 View attachment 3104495 View attachment 3104496 View attachment 3104497 View attachment 3104498 View attachment 3104499 View attachment 3104500 View attachment 3104501 View attachment 3104502 Hello gents, I thought I’d share some pics of my new (to me) Mk. 1 - meet W2503 from good ol’ 1985. Brazilian mahogany core, birdseye maple (Canadian) facings, and Indian rosewood fingerboard. She’s going to require some serious work, to be sure, but if the facings can be salvaged (and I think they can), this will be a project well worth undertaking.

The good: the neck is straight, the trussrod works properly, electronics operate as they should, and all of the hardware is clean with the exception of the control knobs, which I will replace. The original brown case is in decent shape, latches work, hinge and leather handle are solid (though one of the little rubber feet is missing).

The bad: the front and rear facings are delaminating at both the top and bottom of the rear bout (I was told the prior owner had left the bass in storage for five months and it was like this when he retrieved the instrument - obviously it was not a climate-controlled facility).

There are also a variety of other minor issues, but I believe they can all be fixed without much trouble: some missing screws, non-original screws (see bridge and pick-up height adjustment, for example), and nearly all of the remaining Pozidriv screws have been cammed out by someone using the wrong screwdriver (my pet peeve); I believe the preamp has the old capacitors that are prone to leakage/failure; the 1/4” jack is a little loose, and that fingerboard is mighty gunky.

So, I’m thinking that after cleaning the fingerboard I’ll start with the facings, and if they can be reattached with steam, glue, and clamps (a job for a luthier, not me!), I’ll have the body sanded and refinished (satin, as original), and then move on to the other stuff, replacing screws, upgrading electronics (via Electric Wood), etc.

Has anyone else dealt with this type of delamination on a Wal? Were you able to get it repaired to your satisfaction? I’m concerned that the slight gap in the seam between the two front facings (in the center of the instrument) is not going to disappear, even if the facings are able to be fully reattached. If so, would it be sacrilege to, perhaps, cut out a 1/2” strip along that seam and pop in an accent strip (maybe rosewood) - kinda’ like the red Geddy?

I’m also curious if anyone can make out the name of the builder from the back of the cavity control cover.

One last question (and I know this is a long-shot), has anyone ever catalogued the gauges of the various screws on a Wal?

... and here are the pics:
I have 2564. I have also had delamination issues, although not as bad as yours in the pics. I have had mine fixed once, but it is starting to do it again, after a very hot and dry summer. I have humidifiers in the case now. Not sure whether that will solve the problem. The luthier who did the repairs mentioned that the core is not sealed properly so it reacts to humidity and temperature changes, to the detriment of the glue attaching the facings.
Yours facings are very nicely figured.
Cheers
 
  • Like
Reactions: WaveyDavey
Yes, thread pitch and size for the screws. As for asking Wal, Im guessing I’d be waiting for quite a while for a response from Paul or Philip (and I’m not knocking them, I understand they’re busy building basses).

I edited the post - the pics should show up now.

Compared to the past, the communication has become better now with Phillip helping. I would just ask to order the screws you need. I wouldnt see it taking longer than getting the body fixed, and you wont need them until that is done anyways.

Another way would be to take the screws to a nut-bolt supply. They have the tools to measure the screws. Possibly even be able to supply you with new ones.
 
I have 2564. I have also had delamination issues, although not as bad as yours in the pics. I have had mine fixed once, but it is starting to do it again, after a very hot and dry summer. I have humidifiers in the case now. Not sure whether that will solve the problem. The luthier who did the repairs mentioned that the core is not sealed properly so it reacts to humidity and temperature changes, to the detriment of the glue attaching the facings.
Yours facings are very nicely figured.
Cheers

Surprises me to hear of delamintion issues. I guess nothing lasts forever. Even given the price. Most likely more of an issue with natural finished wood basses more so than colored painted poly’s? Also, how they are stored obviously.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BWorm
I have 2564. I have also had delamination issues, although not as bad as yours in the pics. I have had mine fixed once, but it is starting to do it again, after a very hot and dry summer. I have humidifiers in the case now. Not sure whether that will solve the problem. The luthier who did the repairs mentioned that the core is not sealed properly so it reacts to humidity and temperature changes, to the detriment of the glue attaching the facings.
Yours facings are very nicely figured.
Cheers
Thanks for chiming in - I’ll mention the potential issue with the core to my luthier. I REALLY hope to salvage those facings.
 
Surprises me to hear of delamintion issues.

So far, this is the worst I've seen posted.
But there have been several with much simpler issues.

As for screws and things. i did note that current Wal uses longer bridge screws to bite way further into the core than what I found on my 86. The rear control plate screws are now black and have deeper phillips slots for normal #2 screwdrivers. I would just get all new needed screws from Paul as Toolmybass recommended.
 
Okay, so I finally got around to cleaning my Mk2, feels good to restore it as much as I could. I removed the pickups & neck to clean them properly & thoroughly. The worst offender was the bridge. It is an interesting piece of mechanical engineering and really shows me that a lot of thought was put into building it. Really, a great gem of a bass.

IMG_20180804_235745.jpg
IMG_20180805_014859.jpg
IMG_20180804_235418.jpg


Unfortunately there's a lot of wear on it so the black paint had been chipping off, I had to be extra careful with the edges.

I also noticed that the G string saddle screw does not traverse the entire gap to make it to the slot on the other side. It's too short, but I don't think it should be a problem since I assume it's been like this since it's manufacture. I hope the screws in Paul's new basses are long enough to fill the distance.
 
Last edited:
Looks good, LowEnd! Have you considered repainting the bridge? Anyone ever done this?
I did two things to some intricate parts once (non bass related)....one was anodized, and the other was powder coating. Anodizing was the best of the two (but i had a connection in an anodizing factory - so unsure what that would cost)...powder coat was nice too. Looks like paint (well it is technically) but more durable. Id do bridge and saddles - :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: kasroc
Well I never thought about it until you mentioned it, but I will not be doing so. I'm quite the mediocre bassist with a nice bass so I'd just keep it like so. It would be criminal if I somehow ruined it.
It's mojo!
 
Got to visit the Wal workshop and pick up my new Mk2 yesterday. The visit with Paul was awesome, and of course great to see the shop where all the magic happens.
Today, back at the flat from doing touristy stuff in London earlier. Have a chance to snap a few pics of the new bass.
Mk2 bass with Mk3 headstock, ash facings, red and black with red bursted headstock.

20180809_110106.jpg
20180809_110052.jpg
20180809_101924.jpg
20180809_103243.jpg
20180810_202333-1-1.jpg
20180810_202402-1.jpg
20180810_202723.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got to visit the Wal workshop and pick up my new Mk2 yesterday. The visit with Paul was awesome, and of course great to see the shop where all the magic happens.
Today, back at the flat from doing touristy stuff in London earlier. Have a chance to snap a few pics of the new bass.
Mk2 bass with Mk3 headstock, ash facings, red and black with red bursted headstock.
Beautiful Bass! Like a kid in a candy shop!
 
Got to visit the Wal workshop and pick up my new Mk2 yesterday. The visit with Paul was awesome, and of course great to see the shop where all the magic happens.
Today, back at the flat from doing touristy stuff in London earlier. Have a chance to snap a few pics of the new bass.
Mk2 bass with Mk3 headstock, ash facings, red and black with red bursted headstock.

HNNNNNNNNNNNG! drool
 
It definitely was! My brain turned to mush trying to remember all the stuff Paul showed and talked about. I thought I'd have tons if questions, but I'm sure I forgot a lot of them once I got there.
You didn’t happen to see this facing attached to a Mk. 1 laying about anywhere, did you?
 

Attachments

  • 9BC8F407-F7FE-4C61-AD6D-4B1B28F829A7.jpeg
    9BC8F407-F7FE-4C61-AD6D-4B1B28F829A7.jpeg
    54.7 KB · Views: 46