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What's On Your Workbench?

Those chest freezers make convenient platforms, don't they? :thumbsup:

As do old drafting tables - I'm currently building a pair of BFM Titan39 folded-horn subs on mine.

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I've been meaning to ask... I love strat style output jacks and I've sucessfuly installed them on two basses, but never with a strat style rout. I have a few ideas on how to work it out, but I haven't come across anything definitive. How did you do yours?

You could probably find a PDF file for strat blue prints and use it to make your own templates. If not, I can make you one next time I am at my shop and send it to you.
 
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You could probably find a PDF file for strat blue prints and use it to make your own templates. If not, I can make you one next time I am at my shop and send it to you.

Thanks, @Hopkins I appreciate the offer. I prefer to make my own templates, for better or for worse. At this stage of my building I care more about process than product, so part of the skill building for me is to make my own.

The thing that's got me tripped up about the strat output jack rout is that on the squire strat I have, the rout (CNC'd) is at the angle of the jack, and is inset. I other words, it's bigger on the inside. I was thinking that a large enough brad point bit at the right angle would do the trick, but I'm a bit worried about bit deflection on the top.

I think I'm not being very clear, but I feel like strat output jack holes when mounted directly to the wood without a pickguard aren't as straightforward as it looks. You need room for the jack and the 1/4 inch plug.
 
Thanks, @Hopkins I appreciate the offer. I prefer to make my own templates, for better or for worse. At this stage of my building I care more about process than product, so part of the skill building for me is to make my own.

The thing that's got me tripped up about the strat output jack rout is that on the squire strat I have, the rout (CNC'd) is at the angle of the jack, and is inset. I other words, it's bigger on the inside. I was thinking that a large enough brad point bit at the right angle would do the trick, but I'm a bit worried about bit deflection on the top.

I think I'm not being very clear, but I feel like strat output jack holes when mounted directly to the wood without a pickguard aren't as straightforward as it looks. You need room for the jack and the 1/4 inch plug.

I downloaded a Strat template, printed it out, made a template, and the jack fit right in. No angle needed.

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Thanks! And now I'll go off to stand in my garage of over thinking.

Yessir, as @mapleglo pointed out, it is just a straight rout, but there have been instances when I needed to enlarge the cavity under the rout slightly at the front of the rout where the tip of the jack is located. To do this it was simply a matter of using a 1/2" router bit set so the top of the bit is 1/4" lower than the top of the guitar and simply removing some material at the back of the cavity. Its easily done, especially if you use a 1/4" bushing on the router.
 
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I've got 5 instruments in the works. Unfortunately I'm not able to work on them as much as I'd like but maybe after getting back into the swing of things from the holidays I'll get more shop time. The current specs for all of them:

4 string J-style bass:
-J/J EMG pickups
-Alder Body, Maple neck, Rosewood fingerboard
-Chrome Hardware
-White paint

Guitar 1:
-Ash Body, Maple neck, Birdseye FB
-Haven't decided on electronics, but looking to do a strat-style configuration
-Chrome Hardware
-Red Paint

Guitar 2:
-Flame maple top, Maple neck, Rosewood FB, Alder Body
-2 Humbuckers with Volume, tone, and selection switch
-Satin Finish

5 String Bass:
-Ash Body, Maple neck, Birdseye FB, Buckeye Burl top
-Nordstrand dual coil pickups with Aguilar 3 band preamp
-Satin Finish

5 String J-Bass Fretless (not pictured):
-Walnut Body, Redwood top, Maple neck, Ebony FB
-J/J pickups
-Satin Finish

I don't know if I want to do a chambered body with a bookmatched front/back on the fretless, or if it will be lined or unlined.

The bodies that will be painted:
B92EAB28-96D5-402E-97EA-89D354068059_zpsygy4p54c.jpg


Top woods:
8577F9A2-616B-4559-9134-4CFCC857C45D_zpsyd58mxkv.jpg
 
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Hi,
I bought this bass for cheap,and converted it to a fretless.Ad a third pickups.I'm a real amateur and since I don't have a lot of tools and my workbench is the kitchen table .Things growing up slowly.
My wife want her kitchen table to be clean and functional everyday so... Ha ha ha you understand.Since the routing pickups hole was very sloppy and the pickups have a lot of wear ,I put some veneer on them and also on the fingerboard.I glued up a head just for the look.I think it will turn out good for a novice.
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It's because the fingerboard ad a bunch of nicks and bumps ,when I took off the frets I try to sand it down but It was not good enough for my taste.so I have this idea.I read a lot on talkbass forum and
that inspire me too try the veneer.I don't have bandsaw table and other usefull tools .Just a dremel and a router.So I work with this limitation for now.
 
Cut this body out about a year ago, and now thinking of making it an instrument.
I cut the body out a large piece of walnut, similar to the piece that is below it. It was much rougher that the piece below.
If you look at the lower left corner of the body, there is a change in color of the wood from a gray, to a redish gray, and that's why I haven't persued it. But I put a wetting agent on it, I think I'll be looking at building this up soon.

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