I didn't read the whole thread, but a while back, I pondered this same thing.
I wanted a nice full B string and a non-twangy G (or maybe C) string - a multi-scale bass only made sense. Then someone made a very good point that in order to really get the benefits of it, you really need to move up and down the strings perpendicular to the crazy angle of the bridge, to keep your point of attack an equal distance from the bridge:
If you went just straight up and down like you do on a single-scale bass, then you'll be much closer to the bridge on highest pitched string than where you'd be on the lowest pitched string, and you would lose some of the benefits of a multi-scale bass.
I didn't want to have to think about plucking-hand placement every time I crossed the strings, plus I preferred to keep a single-scale bass to keep my muscle memory intact for fretless playing. So I began stringing my bass with a sort of reverse tension philosophy - the string with the highest tension would be the B string and the tension would slightly decrease with every string, and the G (or C) string would have the lowest tension. This has helped produce a much more even tone on each string, and isn't that noticeable if each string is gradual... Now I've only done this with a 4 string tuned either to BEAD or EADG, but I could still hear the difference.
One thing to note about the reverse tension idea is that depending on your pickups and fretboard radius, after you select the appropriate tensions for a gradual decrease, you may need to slightly increase the tension of the strings in the middle. If you have a five string Jazz with a 9.5" radius and flat Jazz pickups, your A string will be the furthest string from the pickups and will then have a lower volume output, if you add mass to the string (higher tension/gauge), it will help normalize it.
Yes, it may take a while to find the right strings for each bass, but thankfully a new set of strings is much cheaper than a new multi-scale bass.
I wanted a nice full B string and a non-twangy G (or maybe C) string - a multi-scale bass only made sense. Then someone made a very good point that in order to really get the benefits of it, you really need to move up and down the strings perpendicular to the crazy angle of the bridge, to keep your point of attack an equal distance from the bridge:
If you went just straight up and down like you do on a single-scale bass, then you'll be much closer to the bridge on highest pitched string than where you'd be on the lowest pitched string, and you would lose some of the benefits of a multi-scale bass.
I didn't want to have to think about plucking-hand placement every time I crossed the strings, plus I preferred to keep a single-scale bass to keep my muscle memory intact for fretless playing. So I began stringing my bass with a sort of reverse tension philosophy - the string with the highest tension would be the B string and the tension would slightly decrease with every string, and the G (or C) string would have the lowest tension. This has helped produce a much more even tone on each string, and isn't that noticeable if each string is gradual... Now I've only done this with a 4 string tuned either to BEAD or EADG, but I could still hear the difference.
One thing to note about the reverse tension idea is that depending on your pickups and fretboard radius, after you select the appropriate tensions for a gradual decrease, you may need to slightly increase the tension of the strings in the middle. If you have a five string Jazz with a 9.5" radius and flat Jazz pickups, your A string will be the furthest string from the pickups and will then have a lower volume output, if you add mass to the string (higher tension/gauge), it will help normalize it.
Yes, it may take a while to find the right strings for each bass, but thankfully a new set of strings is much cheaper than a new multi-scale bass.
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