buldog5151bass
Kibble, milkbones, and P Basses. And redheads.
I've worked a lot with poplar. It is easy to work with, but is VERY soft - dents easily. But it takes a stain really nicely, looks almost like maple when stained.
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wmhill
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- Aug 20, 2012
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I always thought an easy cure for strap buttons and the like would be a maple dowel inset in the wood where the screws would be.
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For higher end stuff, it’s not very pretty. You need to paint it a solid color.
My issue with it is that it is damn heavy! You’re gonna end up with a ten pound bass.
I agree with your remarks on the sound. I have yet to hear a poplar bass that doesn’t sound superb.
And yes, the wood matters. A lot more than most here think it does. But my background is that of an acoustic builder, and it is possible I may have some bias as to how I view the subject.
I had a single issue with a strap-button not staying in with Poplar (a Cort), I simply put TWO toothpick ends into the hole.
Isn't its actual name tulip popular? Not sure what its used for, but theres a poopie load harvested and cut in west virginia.
On the timber audit, always labeled tulip popular.
I think its used more than people think.
as another acoustic builder, it's known that Stella, Oscar Schmidt, Maybelle, and their economy ilk littered the earth with their poplar laminates, stained to look like something else.
it's also a decent "white" wood for marquetry, purfling, rosette, and other inlay.
D
This one is for all of you who insist poplar must be finished with a solid color. To be honest I would personally prefer a solid Sonic Blue over this but personal taste aside, that poplar top laminate isn't all that bad, is it? If you're into that coffee table boutique stuff?
I actually own the 5-string version, the SR2605 and I honestly can't decide whether it's a work of art or the most hideously ugly bass ever. I'm really more of a vintage P-bass person so this is my guilty pleasure bass, lol.
As for the SOUND of poplar I also own a couple of poplar body P-basses (plus many in alder, ash, basswood...). and poplar sounds pretty much the same as alder to me.
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I also have used the toothpick method with loose pickguard screws.
It's Poplar, but Poplar BURL, not just plain Poplar.
It's about the same difference as Birdseye or Flamed Maple & plain Maple, only the difference with Burl is even greater.
IIRC Birdseye Maple & Poplar Burl are a result of similar stress on the tree.
I'm actually in the process of constructing a bass with a poplar body as a tribute to my friend Todd who died 2 years ago from ALS.
Wood generally doesn't matter to me except for looks, stability & weight. Wenge is my very favorite material for necks, ash for bodies because I REALLY like the deep grain for an oiled finish, and purpleheart because it's just SO DAMNED PURTY. But if it's a painted finish, I couldn't care less what it's made of.
Wood generally doesn't matter to me except for looks, stability & weight. Wenge is my very favorite material for necks, ash for bodies because I REALLY like the deep grain for an oiled finish, and purpleheart because it's just SO DAMNED PURTY. But if it's a painted finish, I couldn't care less what it's made of.
Poplar is too dang soft. Screws strip and dents easy. Case Closed. The real mystery is why no one ever uses Cherry.
No sound issues? Is it different? Superior (subjective, I know)?
Thanks for the input!
There are several different species of Poplar and then Linden, which is sold as Poplar. Weights and hardness vary across them all. Like all woods, where it is grown makes a big difference. That's why "Swamp Ash" weight so much less than "Hard Ash", they're both the same species, just one grows where it's warm (and wetter) and the other where it's colder. I've had ash bodies as light as 3lbs and as heavy as 7lbs, depending on whether it's Swamp or Hard.
Generally Poplar runs a shade lighter than Alder and a bit softer, but not much. The Wood Data Base listsAlder as 28 pounds per cubic foot and a Janka hardness rating of 590 and Linden/Poplar as 29 foot pounds and a hardness of 540.
Good Poplar can make great bodies even if the grain isn't to fancy, Poplar is close grained, so no filling and takes finishes well. I've never had an issue with screws pulling out of any Poplar I've ever used and there's plenty of 40 and 50 year old Fenders made of Poplar still holding onto those strap pins and bridges OK. (Yes, Fender used Poplar for Mustangs, Duo-Sonics and Musicmasters back in the 60's.)
Poplar also works well with hand and power tools, here's a couple of pics of poplar bodies that show how clean it routs and finishes.
Generally Poplar runs a shade lighter than Alder and a bit softer, but not much. The Wood Data Base listsAlder as 28 pounds per cubic foot and a Janka hardness rating of 590 and Linden/Poplar as 29 foot pounds and a hardness of 540.
Good Poplar can make great bodies even if the grain isn't to fancy, Poplar is close grained, so no filling and takes finishes well. I've never had an issue with screws pulling out of any Poplar I've ever used and there's plenty of 40 and 50 year old Fenders made of Poplar still holding onto those strap pins and bridges OK. (Yes, Fender used Poplar for Mustangs, Duo-Sonics and Musicmasters back in the 60's.)
Poplar also works well with hand and power tools, here's a couple of pics of poplar bodies that show how clean it routs and finishes.
Kay made millions of instruments out of tulip poplar in the 1940s, 50, & '60s. That set the precedent for poplar as a substandard, mediocre, entry level material, only to be tolerated until you could move up to a "real" instrument.
If Leo Fender had used it, there would be so much idol worshipping that the tree would be endangered today....
If Leo Fender had used it, there would be so much idol worshipping that the tree would be endangered today....
Pine
Paulownia (empress)
Okoume (Gabon)
Swamp Ash
Spanish Cedar
Spruce
Redwood
Butternut
All soft, light, and resonant woods that work well:
Okoume in particular is really nice (i'm buying a huge plank, along with some genuine mahogany)
Okoume:
Poplar:
I’ve made three basses with poplar bodies (short, medium, and long scale fretlesses) with added tops of walnut, purpleheart, and zebrawood. I perform with them regularly and they sound great. I finished them with either Tru-Oil or wipe-on poly. I think they look fine and the mineral streaks make for an interesting look. The greenish streaks have mellowed over time.
I have not had any problem with screws stripping out. My basses all have tops that are pretty hard, so most dents are on the back or sides and don’t bother me at all. I like for my instruments to look good, but I mostly want them to be played, so I don’t care at all if they have some dents and wear.
I have a few more poplar boards in the basement (or bassment) and will be happy to build more instruments with it in the future.
I have not had any problem with screws stripping out. My basses all have tops that are pretty hard, so most dents are on the back or sides and don’t bother me at all. I like for my instruments to look good, but I mostly want them to be played, so I don’t care at all if they have some dents and wear.
I have a few more poplar boards in the basement (or bassment) and will be happy to build more instruments with it in the future.
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