Winter 2017 Build Off - Speak of the Devil

[SLivinghouse]

Hmmmm. Delano Electronics Lets seee... Hmm
Well
Anagrams for Delano:
Deal On
Lead on
Eon Lad
A Lo Den
Isn't that special? Lets look at this.

Anagrams for Electronics:
Cleric Set On (fire?)
I Elect Scorn
Nicer Sect Lo
Cries Cent Lo

Hmmmmm
I wonder who's behind this build?

Could it
Could it?

 

[ctmullins]

Hard proof at last! I knew it!

 

[mapleglo]

Put the first coat of clear on the fretboard.

I had to stop off and buy a few more "fret damns". A few were too mangled after pulling them out of the epoxy. Notice my portable spray booth. Just cover up the workbench with plastic, sealing in the saw dust...

 

[JIO]

The pickup came in.

I'm hoping to start fretting and back shaping by the weekend. I can't wait to hear this thing

These pu's are very strong and dynamic - really have a character of their own.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

These pu's are very strong and dynamic - really have a character of their own.

Those are characteristics we look for in pickups for a Devil Bass. Pickups that are warm and sweet and have a fuzzy bottom end are for the Bunny Bass.

 

[MPU]

I thought that the most important sound character in this bass is that the bass makes one hell of a noise!

 

[mapleglo]

A few more coats of clear on the fretboard this afternoon. I decided to not use the fret damns. They were preventing a level coat to lay across the area around the fret slots. I'm not sure why - maybe because the spray is too turbulent from the spray gun, even at 20 psi. So I just sprayed, and then used one of the brass strips to clear out the slot after spraying.

I figure a total of 6 or so coats, and then I'll let that cure over night, do a quick level with sandpaper, and start fretting. I'll add more coats after the neck is done and also ready for finish.

 

[Indiedog]

It is fascinating how sometimes it is a wise decision to NOT use something that was planned. It is all about paying attention to how the actual situation develops.

Pardon me if this has already been used in the thread...the devil is in the details!

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Speaking of cleaning out fret slots, here's a real simple tool that I made many years ago. It works very well. It's made from a scrap of 0.020" stainless steel sheet shim stock. I drilled an 1/8" hole near one corner, then filed and ground it into this hook shape. Wrapped electrical tape makes a handle.

You can make yours out of brass, since you have some right there, although steel or stainless would be stronger.

 

[MPU]

A few more coats of clear on the fretboard this afternoon. I decided to not use the fret damns. They were preventing a level coat to lay across the area around the fret slots. I'm not sure why - maybe because the spray is too turbulent from the spray gun, even at 20 psi. So I just sprayed, and then used one of the brass strips to clear out the slot after spraying.

I figure a total of 6 or so coats, and then I'll let that cure over night, do a quick level with sandpaper, and start fretting. I'll add more coats after the neck is done and also ready for finish.

Can you give us a close-up pic of one of the flames? I'm curious to see what they look like clearcoated.

 

[mapleglo]

Can you give us a close-up pic of one of the flames? I'm curious to see what they look like clearcoated.

They should pop even more once I wet sand and buff.

And thanks for the tip about the fret slot cleaner Bruce, I'll have to make one of those. I was wondering what I'll do with all these brass strips.

 

[MPU]

Those flames look very nice.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Those flame inlays look beautiful! They're better looking than most of the ones we did on the Rockits. The crisp, lightly charred edges really help them stand out, and the red tips blended nicely. Fine work indeed.

 

[mapleglo]

Thanks! Yes, I'm pleased with the way the flame inlays came out. On the next one, I may try to tilt the board while pouring in the epoxy, and attempt to get a little more red along one edge.

In the mean time, I think it may be time to either sharpen my roundover bit, or get a new one.

Though at this point, I think it may be time to buy a real router with a 1/2" collet. My little Black and Decker has done well for me, but it may be time for it to retire.

 

[Rôckhewer]

It is fascinating how sometimes it is a wise decision to NOT use something that was planned. It is all about paying attention to how the actual situation develops.
Pardon me if this has already been used in the thread...the devil is in the details!

With so many details to address in this craft....
...the Devil... the good Lord,
& all manner of lesser demons/angels, apostates/zealots...
are likely to be found... In the details.
><
Preferably, good trumps evil...?
(Or vise-versa...depending on perception)

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Roundover bits almost always burn the wood, especially maple. The best technique I've found is to cut it in several steps, adjusting the depth down. The next to last pass is + 1/32" above the zero (finish cut) depth. So, the last cut is very thin, and will usually get rid of the previous cut's burn marks. Minimizes the sanding.

Getting a bigger router is a good thing, but keep the little Black & Decker around. Having a few extra small routers is useful, because you can set them up and dedicate them for specific jobs that you do often. I have at least two of the small Black & Decker routers in my router shelves. One is my first router, from back in my high school days. It still runs just fine. It's now fitted with a small bearing bevel bit, and I use it for the beveled edges on all my pickguards. It's nice to have that router on the shelf, all dialed in and ready to go.

I picked up another little Black & Decker router last summer on CraigsList. It's fitted with an 1/8" bit, and I use it for precise shallow work, like inlays and slots.

 

[MPU]

Those flame inlays look beautiful! They're better looking than most of the ones we did on the Rockits. The crisp, lightly charred edges really help them stand out, and the red tips blended nicely. Fine work indeed.

On some other inlay charring would look strange but flames almost need those charred edges.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I got exactly the same kind of burning using a brand new roundover bit in my Crapsman, probably because I did it one pass. I don't know why I assumed that was ok! I want to get a Porter Cable or similar with 1/2" collet so I can use some longer bits. I've see a few of the PC kits with fixed and plunge base used on Ebay for around $150, most with the 1.75 hp motor.

 

[mapleglo]

Excellent, so it's the nature of the beast, and not my mediocre router technique. At least that will be my rationalization

It was easy enough to sand it out - just a few minutes with 60 grit. That's one of my favorite parts about a build, by the way. That, and sanding the body shape on the drum sander. Something about becoming one with the wood, merging with all the saw dust, and feeling the body take shape in your hands.

Ok, enough new age, hippy stuff. On to the pic.

I was thinking about going to a 3/4" roundover, but I think I may stay with the 1/2". Kind of a retro, semi-slab body vibe. Works with a 60's style bass.

I have to say, I may be liking this devil bass body shape even more than the Ric style body. Maybe because it's new to me, but it's really growing on me.

I'm also thinking of using that goat head graphic laser-etched into a small piece of wood for the truss rod cover. Maybe even shape the bottom along the pickup rout.

 

[Deleted member 264575]

With the paper off and the edges smoothed, it's really growing on me, too. Great work Nexy! Great thread too. Thanks!