I believe it. They're calling for more snow here again all week. We've been in this house for 10 years now and never seen this much show.
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Winter Build Off 2022 - The PeavEsh StinGer
- Thread starter AudioTaper
- Start date
The worst condition is just above freezing and rain.
We got a few large snow falls and it's been well below freezing for over a month. Today we're getting 50F and then rain tonight. So, melting snow and rain = flooding and mud flurries.
Good times.
We got a few large snow falls and it's been well below freezing for over a month. Today we're getting 50F and then rain tonight. So, melting snow and rain = flooding and mud flurries.
Good times.
Ok, time to edge glue! I'm using Titebond 2 Premium
I did my best to square up the edges, I'll have to figure out some better tools for any future work.
There were little bits missing from the bottom, so I had to add some
The top is uneven, I'll put it on the router planer and fix it once its glued to the core.
I did my best on the back with a palm sander, but I cant get it completely flat. This is where a drum sander would be great, I'll have to make one sometime. For this project, I glued some 220gr sandpaper to the other half of the MDF I used on the template.
A bit of elbow grease (using figure 8 patterns and rotating often) and it's pretty flat. It's not perfect, nothing on this project is....
The joints on the alder core turned our pretty good
Time to glue the top to the core. I dont have the best clamps, and they may not be the right style clamps, but I used ever clamp I had. The 2x4s are putting pressure on the center section
I did my best to square up the edges, I'll have to figure out some better tools for any future work.
There were little bits missing from the bottom, so I had to add some
The top is uneven, I'll put it on the router planer and fix it once its glued to the core.
I did my best on the back with a palm sander, but I cant get it completely flat. This is where a drum sander would be great, I'll have to make one sometime. For this project, I glued some 220gr sandpaper to the other half of the MDF I used on the template.
A bit of elbow grease (using figure 8 patterns and rotating often) and it's pretty flat. It's not perfect, nothing on this project is....
The joints on the alder core turned our pretty good
Time to glue the top to the core. I dont have the best clamps, and they may not be the right style clamps, but I used ever clamp I had. The 2x4s are putting pressure on the center section
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Forgot the glue shot of the alder. This was my first time edge gluing anything, so I did 2 boards first and used WAY too much glue. I did all 3 for the ash
I've been slacking on updates.
Glue up the back pieces, flatten, and cut to the rough shape. Notice how the right side sticks out weird, I'll use that piece later
I had to use a lot more elbow grease getting the top and back as level as possible. I EVER do another build off, I'm going to have a thickness sander.
Got the top cut to shape with the template
Glued the back on
Oops, too much glue
Glue up the back pieces, flatten, and cut to the rough shape. Notice how the right side sticks out weird, I'll use that piece later
I had to use a lot more elbow grease getting the top and back as level as possible. I EVER do another build off, I'm going to have a thickness sander.
Got the top cut to shape with the template
Glued the back on
Oops, too much glue
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Cleaned up the glue mess and cut the back to shape.
Measured about 40 times and cut the neck pocket with the template I made before the build started
Drilled the pickup corners for the proper radius
We have a pickup hole!
I made a quick template for the control cavity out of plywood
Nice and clean! I didnt get the battery box routing pics, but you get the idea
That weird extra piece from the back panel I glued up now gets flipped around as the cavity cover, à la Pedulla MVP
I have to install the hardware for that and clean up the edges of the cover. Still a lot to do and very little time
Measured about 40 times and cut the neck pocket with the template I made before the build started
Drilled the pickup corners for the proper radius
We have a pickup hole!
I made a quick template for the control cavity out of plywood
Nice and clean! I didnt get the battery box routing pics, but you get the idea
That weird extra piece from the back panel I glued up now gets flipped around as the cavity cover, à la Pedulla MVP
I have to install the hardware for that and clean up the edges of the cover. Still a lot to do and very little time
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The body is about as thick as my MIM Jazz Bass, but it looks a lot thicker. Probably because theres no contours and the body is smaller. It's still really heavy, well see how the weight reduction goes.
Time to drill the neck screw holes, clean the edges, and fire up the angle grinder!
Time to drill the neck screw holes, clean the edges, and fire up the angle grinder!
Drilling the wire channels, dont forget to protect those edges!
I didnt have modeling clay handy to find the neck screw holes, so I used Play-Doh. It worked just fine. The hole closest to the nut really needed more wood around it. Oops.
Cleaning up glue. Note the threaded brass insert in the corner for the cover plate
The Gotoh battery compartment fits nice and tight. It's not bottomed out in the routed hole (another benefit of a thicker body) so the wires can pass underneath without getting pinched. Now I have to find where I put the screws to keep them safe.... I'll clean up the control cover edge after I get the rest of the hardware installed.
I'm trying to make knobs out of the same piece of wood as the body. It's time doing this, hopefully I can get 3 useable knobs out of these.
I didnt have modeling clay handy to find the neck screw holes, so I used Play-Doh. It worked just fine. The hole closest to the nut really needed more wood around it. Oops.
Cleaning up glue. Note the threaded brass insert in the corner for the cover plate
The Gotoh battery compartment fits nice and tight. It's not bottomed out in the routed hole (another benefit of a thicker body) so the wires can pass underneath without getting pinched. Now I have to find where I put the screws to keep them safe.... I'll clean up the control cover edge after I get the rest of the hardware installed.
I'm trying to make knobs out of the same piece of wood as the body. It's time doing this, hopefully I can get 3 useable knobs out of these.
Could you explain how that modeling clay trick works?
Sure. After the pocket is routed and the bridge is lined up (you know where stuff is going to be) put some clay (or whatever you have) in the pocket where the neck attachment holes will be.
May not be a bad idea to put some masking tape of something down so it doesnt leave anything on the wood.
Gently put the neck in the pocket and get it lined up with the bridge/get it where it's supposed to be, then push it into the pocket all the way. Pull it straight out, and the clay will have little nubs where the neck screw holes are. I took a center punch and pressed it straight down through that nub to mark the wood. You can see a few of the nubs in the photo, 2 were off center and I had to redo it.
Then it's off to the drill press to drill the clearance holes. I have mine drilled, but I have to drill the recesses for the washers.
I had a few minutes to work on the body contours. Before
Once again, I'm limited on what tools are available and time. Nothing that a 10A Dewalt angle grinder and a 40grit flap disk cant fix....
The back doesnt show up as well due to the crap lighting, but theres a significant contour on what would be the top.
I nicked the neck pocket whilst cutting the lower horn. I'll have to touch that up with some cyanoacrylate.
I made a list of what's left to do. Still a lot to go in the next week and a half and the weather isnt going to cooperate. Let's see how it goes
Once again, I'm limited on what tools are available and time. Nothing that a 10A Dewalt angle grinder and a 40grit flap disk cant fix....
The back doesnt show up as well due to the crap lighting, but theres a significant contour on what would be the top.
I nicked the neck pocket whilst cutting the lower horn. I'll have to touch that up with some cyanoacrylate.
I made a list of what's left to do. Still a lot to go in the next week and a half and the weather isnt going to cooperate. Let's see how it goes
Why do they only have 3 screws on a 5-string bridge?
Ah, that's much better. I also re-countersunk the factory screws on this aluminum Peavey bridge to a standard 82°
Ah, that's much better. I also re-countersunk the factory screws on this aluminum Peavey bridge to a standard 82°
While shaping the body, the router slipped (user error) and took a chunk out of the side. Sure, this bass will purposely have some rustic features, but I dont like this one. I hit it with cyanoacrylate a few times and filled it with no-sag epoxy. I'll sand it flush tomorrow and it will be hidden by the paint
...because more are not needed? Are there widespread reports of these bridges ripping free of the bass?
If choosing to add more, and they are fully countersunk out of the way, putting the extra holes at the other end of the channels would perhaps be nominally "better" in some sense. W rather than _ for a hole pattern...or you could put 3 in each channel for "15 screws worth of hold" an make it a marketing point
My reasoning......because more are not needed? Are there widespread reports of these bridges ripping free of the bass?
If choosing to add more, and they are fully countersunk out of the way, putting the extra holes at the other end of the channels would perhaps be nominally "better" in some sense. W rather than _ for a hole pattern...or you could put 3 in each channel for "15 screws worth of hold" an make it a marketing point
I tend to err on the over-built side of things, I dont trust three #6 screws on a thin aluminum bridge going into this particular ash. Even though they should reach the alder core.
The screw heads are out of the way where they are, any further forward and they might interfere with the height adjustment screws on the shoe. I dont recall any bridge designs where theres a screw head directly under the shoe. They're usually off to the side.
The factory 4-string versions of these bridges have 4 across.
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