actually Wish made some Ipe bridges for Schillzilla. I got a couple from him as Wish had sent him extra. Forgot about that, I guess I should install it.
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Wishbass Club
- Thread starter BassDudeSA
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actually Wish made some Ipe bridges for Schillzilla. I got a couple from him as Wish had sent him extra. Forgot about that, I guess I should install it.
Joining the club soon. Just ordered my 1st Wish. 4 string fretless, body in the shape of an F style mandocello, Kent Armstrong pickup, Hipshot bridge, purpleheart fingerboard, walnut for the back of the body, butcher block stripes for the front, no finish (I'll do Tru-oil.) I'll post whatever progress pics I can get if anyone's interested.
well, I put a bridge on my custom... but not the Ipe one. I like it more this way. Now for some coated DR strings... The flatwounds just don't feel right on this bass.
+1
I just put a hipshot on mine. And it was a huge improvement. Still don't have pics though. I don't have a camera
yeah, thanks. Next up is a graph tech nut, I think...
I would love to do a refinish on it someday.
I also threw some springs under the pick up so it's actually adjustable.
I would love to do a refinish on it someday.
I also threw some springs under the pick up so it's actually adjustable.
Damn! I can't believe this 11 string Wishbass went for close to a grand!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=260138546058&rd=1&rd=1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=260138546058&rd=1&rd=1
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Not bad considering a new one would cost at least $1100 ($100 per string)...but still strange to see such a high price for a Wishbass
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The build thread on subcontrabassist.com talked about the custom construction process and progress, but I don't remember if the original price was mentioned.
Truth is Wish will make you anything if you ask nice enough. I asked for bridges for my 4 and 5 strings made from the hardest wood he had around and he sent me 8 or so bridges made of Ipe. Gubna can attest they needed shaping to fit.
I finally got him to make me a control plate of wood and only wood instead of Laminate. He just refused to drill it. I didn't care.
I installed the IPE bridge on my 4 string Hyper...I can't bring myself to install the hipshot I bought for it now. I can't describe just how clean it sounds now after all the sanding and sanding and sanding and sanding that I did to the fretboard. The only thing I did Gub, was once I located the position of the bridge I sanded the finish to rough and for whatever reason it really helped the contact point. Anyway don't know if it was in my head or what but the hyper sings now and that makes me happy.
Next week I am putting the preamp from my KSD proto J into my Lobe 5. Should be fun.
PS. anyone got a 6er WISH they want to unload?
Just asking.
Zilla
- Dec 8, 2000
- 1,910
- 4
- 38
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Warwick Bass and Amp
We need more Wishbass videos... Kind of suprising that there aren't more on YouTube.
It's good to see a human holding one of Steve's basses because it's really difficult for me to judge how big they are.
It's good to see a human holding one of Steve's basses because it's really difficult for me to judge how big they are.
- Dec 8, 2000
- 1,910
- 4
- 38
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Warwick Bass and Amp
+1!!
as I'm sure you can understand there's a lot of pages to this thread so sifting through for the answer to my question could take a while... if wish's have no truss rod, what happens if u want to adjust it? or if you change your string guage you use? do you just have bad action?
In modern electric basses (thin necks + truss rods), the neck is a flexible thing. The 'system' is designed so that the strings at tension provide force in one direction (away from the top) and the truss rod provides counterforce away from the back. The forces are equal, so the neck stays in one place. Changing the string tension typically requires a minor truss rod adjustment to counterbalance the new tension.
On a Wishbass, on the other hand, the neck just DOESN'T MOVE. Switching to lighter gauge? No problem. It doesn't move. Heavier? Again, it doesn't move. It's like putting tuners and strings on a steel I-beam.
So assuming the fingerboard is pretty much parallel to the strings (zero relief) as most fretlesses are set up, the string gauge pretty much doesn't change things. Nut depth and bridge height thus determine the action. It's a much simpler process with fewer variables. All this implies a nice flat fingerboard. While mine was pretty good when I bought it, it had a couple of buzzy notes. I took it in to a reputable guitar shop and had the fingerboard planed. $45 later, I couldn't believe the improvement.
So within reason, the string gauge shouldn't make much difference, due to the neck construction and its overall thickness and strength. I believe I've only heard one report in Usenet and Talkbass over several years about neck warpage, and even then, it was repairable using standard 'classical' techniques (neck cooking).
If you like the action a little higher, shim the bridge. Lower? Sand the underside of the bridge. Some folks have been adding adjustable bridges and saddles, which I'm sure work fine as well. Wish's instruments are a lot like upright basses, where things are nice and flat and the bridge height is pretty much the only adjustment people ever need.
Good luck with your decisions.
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