Workshop Tools - the essentials???

[T_Bone_TL]

I've been looking around a while for an inexpensive #8. I can't pull the trigger quite yet, but I look forward to finally grabbing one up. Would you recommend the corrugated or flat bed?

Don't overlook a Millers Falls 24 (MF bench planes were numbered by bed length in inches, not by copying the Stanley numbering system.) So a 24 is an 8, a 9 is a 4, etc...

Likewise, if a #7 or MF 22 comes along at a better price or in better condition, the 2 inches shorter won't matter a lot in most use.

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I slightly prefer them to Stanley's as a rule, but that might simply be regional bias (I live closer to the old MF factory than to any Stanley plant other than the old Eagle Square plant, and they didn't make planes) or else I'm enginerded into thinking the MF lever cap is actually better. Like most non-brand-collection oriented users, I own and use both (and I also own and use full woodies, and don't find much amusement in the folks that like to burn transitionals, though I don't actually own nor use any of those to know how bad they might actually be in use - I'm just not fond of wanton destruction.)

 

[BassHappy]

By way of an update, my neighbor does have a Shop Smith in his attic, but he says he doesn't have the full set - and he didn't mention if it is the Mark V or 7.

If the barn deal goes through, I am leaning towards picking up used - a band saw, and a drill press - and a new router. Of course I will need an assortment of hand tools which I will purchase as I need them. I think I can get Glenn and Ernie at the shop to help me design and build a router sled. I would also need to pick up a spindle sander and a hand sander, maybe even a drum sander. I do have a pretty decent basic collection of tools, but they were not purchased or collected for the purpose of wood working. I have a miter saw though and a couple of hand drills. Probably some other tools down in the boiler room I have to dig out.

Also, I have a couple of wooden tables, but I don't really have a work bench. I saw this from Harbor Freight

It even has felt lined drawers and includes the vice:

and I chuckled at the price, because even disassembled I would think shipping would be salty. But at least to my zip code, less than seven bucks:

I like the height, it should be comfortable sitting or standing. Can't think of a reason why I shouldn't do this, not sure if the vice they provide is the right way to go either?

 

[earlysecond]

While it can be made to do about anything. . . .especially with jig, sleds and templates, I'm not real confident that I will ever rely on a router for essential functions that other do. I find that i tolerate a router but gravitate to other tools. I just not sure i can ever picture myself building a thickness jig and taking the time necessary to make a lot of passes over a piece of wood to get it flat when the planer is so much quicker. With that said i do not yet own my own thickness planer but hope to scoe a 3hp 20 inch very soon! Hand tools, i would at least like to give a fair shake to.

 

[lbridenstine]

About the Harbor Freight workbench - I have one, I personally wouldn't buy it again. It's good if you just need a solid work surface, but...

-The drawers only open 1/2 way and they're really shallow, so it can be difficult to see or reach anything in the back half of the drawer. That picture of the felt line drawer is with the drawer opened as far as it goes.
-Sawdust builds up in the drawers like crazy, even if you cover the bench dog holes
-It sucks for clamping anything to because it has a skirt around it that is about 1-1.5" wide and that's basically the only clamp-able area because clamps (at least the ones I have) don't reach all the way to the bottom of the surface behind that skirt
-Clamping is even more difficult because your knuckles hit against the face of the drawers when you turn the clamp handle
-The vise is okay, but it has a bit of wiggle to it and the handle constantly falls out.

 

[mapleglo]

$170 for a workbench?!?!?! Golly.

This cost about $40 in wood.

Great for clamping stuff to, solid as a rock, and fully customizable. I'd apologize for the mess, but I'm starting to sound like a broken record. I've decided to embrace my inner slob. But just look at how much stuff it holds.

 

[Jisch]

I made my workbench out of my kid's swingset/playhouse after I took it down ($0). It's the perfect height for working on stuff, but because it's usually covered in "recent tools and work" I do most of my work on the workmate. The nice thing about the workmate is that I can clamp the instrument in it so it's upright when I'm working on the neck or body sides - I cover the top with a towel and a no-slip mat. The bad thing about the workmate is it's short, so if I'm working on the body or neck flat on the workmate surface, my back starts screaming - I should work on clearing my workbench for those flat working sessions.

 

[mapleglo]

Ah yes, the workmate.

$8.00 at the thrift store.

 

[Jisch]

I have had my workmate for about 25 years, no kidding. It creaks mightily when I pull those legs up and has plenty of saw marks in the top (as I can see yours does as well), but it still works perfectly. Having that split top and the ability to clamp on and in it, I really can't think of a better way to get those things done.

 

[Hopkins]

While it can be made to do about anything. . . .especially with jig, sleds and templates, I'm not real confident that I will ever rely on a router for essential functions that other do. I find that i tolerate a router but gravitate to other tools. I just not sure i can ever picture myself building a thickness jig and taking the time necessary to make a lot of passes over a piece of wood to get it flat when the planer is so much quicker. With that said i do not yet own my own thickness planer but hope to scoe a 3hp 20 inch very soon! Hand tools, i would at least like to give a fair shake to.

A thickness planer will not really flatten a board, if the board if it doesn't already have a flat side. Which is why they are always paired with a jointer. A large enough jointer to flatten a guitar body is expensive and takes up a lot of room. But I don't really use my router for thicknessing body blanks either unless its a one piece body and wont fit through my planer. I usually use my planer and drum sander

A flush trim bit and a straight edge will give you a ready to glue surface, where as a table saw will need some cleaning to get the saw marks out of it. A scarf joint jig and a router will give you a perfect gluing surface as well. The reason a lot of people use their routers isn't because other tools can't do the job, but because the router does the same job cleaner and more efficient, and faster as well if your jigs and fixtures are already built.

 

[Ross W. Lovell]

By way of an update, my neighbor does have a Shop Smith in his attic, but he says he doesn't have the full set - and he didn't mention if it is the Mark V or 7.

If the barn deal goes through, I am leaning towards picking up used - a band saw, and a drill press - and a new router. Of course I will need an assortment of hand tools which I will purchase as I need them. I think I can get Glenn and Ernie at the shop to help me design and build a router sled. I do have a pretty decent basic collection of tools, but they were not purchased or collected for the purpose of wood working. I have a miter saw though and a couple of hand drills. Probably some other tools down in the boiler room I have to dig out.

Also, I have a couple of wooden tables, but I don't really have a work bench. I saw this from Harbor Freight

View attachment 865065
View attachment 865066

It even has felt lined drawers and includes the vice:

View attachment 865070


and I chuckled at the price, because even disassembled I would think shipping would be salty. But at least to my zip code, less than seven bucks:

View attachment 865067

I like the height, it should be comfortable sitting or standing. Can't think of a reason why I shouldn't do this, not sure if the vice they provide is the right way to go either?

Probably a good idea.......the barn. What type of floor, and is it a dry space, any type of heat?

A thickness planer will not really flatten a board, if the board if it doesn't already have a flat side. Which is why they are always paired with a jointer. A large enough jointer to flatten a guitar body is expensive and takes up a lot of room. But I don't really use my router for thicknessing body blanks either unless its a one piece body and wont fit through my planer. I usually use my planer and drum sander

A flush trim bit and a straight edge will give you a ready to glue surface, where as a table saw will need some cleaning to get the saw marks out of it. A scarf joint jig and a router will give you a perfect gluing surface as well. The reason a lot of people use their routers isn't because other tools can't do the job, but because the router does the same job cleaner and more efficient, and faster as well if your jigs and fixtures are already built.

If your table saw leaves marks, try a new blade, if they still exist, try a new saw. Proper feed and the correct sharp blade should yield no marks.

 

[Hopkins]

Probably a good idea.......the barn. What type of floor, and is it a dry space, any type of heat?



If your table saw leaves marks, try a new blade, if they still exist, try a new saw. Proper feed and the correct sharp blade should yield no marks.

The marks are minimal, but that's not the main issue. A saw tends to leave a feathery edge down the line that a router will not leave. Also, a table saw requires a machined edge to ride against the fence to achieve a straight cut. I can stick an aluminum straight edge onto a board and run it across my router table with a flush trim bit faster than cleaning up one edge on a jointer and ripping the other edge on a saw, and I will have an absolutely perfect glue line every time.

 

[BassHappy]

Probably a good idea.......the barn. What type of floor, and is it a dry space, any type of heat?

If your table saw leaves marks, try a new blade, if they still exist, try a new saw. Proper feed and the correct sharp blade should yield no marks.

Hey Ross

It's being refurbished now - they just finished the sheathing on the outside but still have to do the roof. They sprayed insulation everywhere and used 1.5" thick insulated board on everything inside. It's electric but I am negotiating for a wood stove upstairs as well. Electric heat sucks, but this baby is airtight with lots of insulation and a Tyvek wrap. I am hoping that the electric heat bill doesn't kill me. I think I posted a photo of it previously, but here it is again:

This would be the area for the shop downstairs:

It's like 40' X 24' approximately, I would use some areas for storage.

My office and jamming area would be upstairs, the hardwood floors are in and the bathroom is complete:

 

[BassHappy]

About the Harbor Freight workbench - I have one, I personally wouldn't buy it again. It's good if you just need a solid work surface, but...

-The drawers only open 1/2 way and they're really shallow, so it can be difficult to see or reach anything in the back half of the drawer. That picture of the felt line drawer is with the drawer opened as far as it goes.
-Sawdust builds up in the drawers like crazy, even if you cover the bench dog holes
-It sucks for clamping anything to because it has a skirt around it that is about 1-1.5" wide and that's basically the only clamp-able area because clamps (at least the ones I have) don't reach all the way to the bottom of the surface behind that skirt
-Clamping is even more difficult because your knuckles hit against the face of the drawers when you turn the clamp handle
-The vise is okay, but it has a bit of wiggle to it and the handle constantly falls out.

Wow, thanks Lisa!

All good reasons not to buy it.

I guess I should make my own like 'glo.

 

[lbridenstine]

Wow, thanks Lisa!

All good reasons not to buy it.

I guess I should make my own like 'glo.

I'm planning on making my own when I buy a house. I think I'll have a couple that are basically tables with beams connecting the legs to hold them steady, maybe a shelf at the bottom, and 1 or 2 with cabinets and drawers that will not be used for clamping. I've come to realize that a pegboard is a good organize-able way to hold a lot of tools too, so I'll do that as well.

 

[wagdog]

Before you commit to the barn make sure it's wired appropriately for a shop. Lots of circuits with some 220 thrown in for the bigger tools. Nothing worse than having to reset breakers all the time.

 

[earlysecond]

A thickness planer will not really flatten a board, if the board if it doesn't already have a flat side. Which is why they are always paired with a jointer. A large enough jointer to flatten a guitar body is expensive and takes up a lot of room. But I don't really use my router for thicknessing body blanks either unless its a one piece body and wont fit through my planer. I usually use my planer and drum sander

A flush trim bit and a straight edge will give you a ready to glue surface, where as a table saw will need some cleaning to get the saw marks out of it. A scarf joint jig and a router will give you a perfect gluing surface as well. The reason a lot of people use their routers isn't because other tools can't do the job, but because the router does the same job cleaner and more efficient, and faster as well if your jigs and fixtures are already built.

Thanks Hopkins for the educations- my lack luster opinion of a router is based in my rook experience which has led to ignorance. I will try to incorporate it more. Although I am not an expert in using a jointer or planer. . . .the results that I have been getting seem more than satisfactory to this point!

Hope the shop works out well for you Happy!

Brent

 

[mapleglo]

...
My office and jamming area would be upstairs

...

Just a note of caution - saw dust gets everywhere, even if you install a dust collection system. If there's not a good door between the workshop and upstairs, there will be a lot of dust to clean off of *everything*.

 

[Lonnybass]

Wow, thanks Lisa!

All good reasons not to buy it.

I guess I should make my own like 'glo.

I made my own bench too, probably cost me about $40 or so.

I took a whole bunch of 2"x4s", cut them to 7' length to fit my shop layout, and then used my drill press to punch out holes for threaded rods to fasten them (together like a raft). The resulting table surface is rock solid, heavy and stable.

 

[Jisch]

The playset I used had dado joints already cut into the 4x4's that I used as the legs, that thing is solid!

 

[Hopkins]

In defense of the HF work bench, you could not make that bench for the money it costs. Sure you can make a cheaper bench, but it wont have a laminate hardwood top like the HF bench, which looks like some type of oak to me. I have one in my apartment to work on when I am not in my shop. Yes, the drawer slides are not deep enough, but beyond that it is a great bench, its heavy and solid as a rock. Clamping anything to any work bench doesn't work well, but you could easily put some T tracks in the HF bench and use some T Track bench clamps. For the money I am impressed with that bench.