Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Worst Neckdive You've Experienced
- Thread starter Klaxxi
- Start date
-
- Tags
- experienced worst
Where the button is located will make a huge difference. I have both a Gibson and an Epi 5 string Thunderbird...the Gibson, the button is located on the back and there's next to no dive. I could also raise my arms like the video and it wouldn't move, while wearing a standard 2" strap no less. If I wiggle and bounce around it might start heading toward the ground, and once it gets past horizontal, it will slide the rest of the way. But as it is, it stays put without any sort of effort.
The 5 string Epi I bought used off eBay. The previous owner moved the button from the upper horn to a strange location on the back, basically where the neck and body come together. I don't really like it where they moved it so I put it back to its original location on the upper horn...and that lasted about 30 seconds. Horrible neck dive! I mostly understand why they moved it after that...I just don't know why they chose so close to the neck. I don't really want to put an additional hole in the thing to move it to the same spot as my Gibby, so I'm just dealing with it. Anyhow, that one slightly dives...it's heavier than my Gibson with a wider neck being a 5er and the extra tuning key...but if I were still, I could probably still do the hands up move, so it's not horrible and instant dive.
As for the topic at hand...worst offender was probably a BC Cheese Ironbird I had as a kid. That or the Epi TB I mentioned above with the button on the upper horn...but from what I remember, the Ironbird was worse.
edit: talk about a coinkydink! Dude above me posts an Ironbird as I was typing this out.
Last edited:
Just tie a bootlace to the headstock and your strap and bypass the top horn button.
That said my SR370 stays up all night anyway...
Extremely comfortable strap that I use on all of my Warwick's, including both of my Thumbs and have no issues with neck dive.
Neotech 8301042 Mega Strap-Long, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4FLAK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
If I ever find the party or parties responsible for Gibson's robo tune, they will PAY!!!
The neckdive on this Mockingbird copy is the worst, it's unplayable really.
My Thunderbird is actually a lot better, to give you an idea.
But it looks good on its stand, so I'll hold on to it anyway.
My Thunderbird is actually a lot better, to give you an idea.
But it looks good on its stand, so I'll hold on to it anyway.
Vox Phantom IV. You know, Fang's bass (Paul Revere and the Raiders). And heavy as hell. Neck played like a 2x4, and went straight to the floor. Also sounded like kicking an empty box around the room. All the right reasons to buy one, right? But when you're 15 and it's 1965, you end up buying what's cool at the time.
Warmoth custom built jazz bass with the steel reinforcing rods in the neck. My 1997 American Standard Jazz has slight dive from those "F" clam-shell tuners, but it's counteracted by my right forearm resting on the body. People complain about heavy northern ash bodies on 70's P basses, but they certainly prevent neck dive.
Japanese Fender Jaguar - changed the stock tuners with hipshot ultra-lites and replaced the stock bridge with a high mass hipshot. Hangs a lot better now.
I here you about a Vox... I have a Spyder IV, hollow body violin shape and the head stock is so big and heavy. It just nose dives straight to the floor, but like you said, 15 and 1965. Bought it new in 1968 as I traded in my Hagstrom F200 bass for the Spyder. Wish I kept the Hag. Great neck.
Last edited:
1968 Precision Bass - it had an awful neck dive. But on the plus side - wolf tones galore.
CBS Fender - Can't Build "Stuff"...
I had a Warwick Thumb 5 string through neck. Didn’t have it long. They have such a small body it made it very tiring to play. Great sound, but just about as useful as an ashtray on a motorcycle
Charvel Star Body bass. I had one very much like this back in the late 80s. Ergonomics were freakin' awful: I'd tear my fingers up playing too close to the bridge. And it had the worst neck dive by far of any bass I've ever owned... or played, possibly.
Listen you twits - do you want to get rid of neck dive fairly easily or not? I've come across others complaining about this problem time and time again, but I've found a simple solution (and you don't have to move the neck buttons either). I just tried this on my Epi Thunderbird and it seems to work well. The theory is that the further forward you locate the strap anchor position (the closer you locate it towards the headstock) the better the balance will be. Get a nice strong piece of cord of a suitable colour (black is less visible...?) and cut this to a length of about ten inches (23cm) or so. Loop this around the headstock under the strings (assuming this will fit, but it should on most basses) next to the nut. Now, push the end of the string through the hole in the strap end and tie a secure knot so that you create a loop in the cord so it is secured through the strap end (I suggest checking a knot book first). This is the way many acoustic guitarists used to secure their guitars years ago. You should find that your neck dive has now completely disappeared! (Correct me if I am wrong). It means that your strap will now stretch to your headstock instead of being located on the forward part of the body and you might not like this look, but it fixes the dive. The strap button on the rear of the Epi Thunderbird body is really in the wrong place - it should be right near the top of the body 'bout'. However, if you don't mind it crossing over the top front of the rear, it will keep the body more secure and stop it flopping forward. But you can of course 'wedge' it along and up the rear edge although you will probably need a patch of that sticky rubber table matting stuck to the strap so it doesn't slip. I read another article on moving the rear strap button forward on the body - this would probably work, but I doubt as well as the above method. Hope this helps. Sorry to hear you sold your Washburn B20 MEKer; I really liked that design and it seemed to have more bottom end than the other model they made at that time.
I had a Warwick Thumb BO 5 lefty. I got a frigging bicep workout holding that neck up. I remember ordering it (used) at Guitar Center and being so excited to get it in. I put it on, let go, the thing spun down like I was ZZ Top.
