• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Yeah, a lot of you will HATE this !

I think I saw that bass on the bay. If I saw yours, I'd have thought you bought it.


Here's the one that made me go and start this project -

LINK

b49a_12.jpg



I almost did this one in sonic blue, but I love black with a black guard and maple, so I went that way. I left the burst underneath kind of like Fender used to when they needed to do a custom color quickly for an order. :)

Thanks for the kind words !
 
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
That Squire VM looks awesome. I would really like to do something similar with my Squire CV '51 P. How hard would it be for someone to do with ZERO decades experience refinishing basses?


Read, practice, and have patience.

Some resources to give you a kick start :

http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewtopic.php?t=9079

http://www.reranch.com/reranch/viewforum.php?f=1&sid=01b18dcc95314337696e95b5f0e8e5aa

http://relicdeluxe.com/


A lot of the things I do are stuff I've figured out (the hard way) over the years, but there are a lot of great suggestions in the links above. :)
 
Quick question: what's the relicing justification for the heavy wear (down to orig. burst) over the thumbrest? Seems it would be a touch far back for thumb wear or pick damage, so it's the only thing that looks a little out of place to me.

Otherwise, very nice job! I remember when Ibanezcollector started relicing on here, those were some fun threads :)

c-
 
Thanks guys.



Quick question: what's the relicing justification for the heavy wear (down to orig. burst) over the thumbrest? Seems it would be a touch far back for thumb wear or pick damage, so it's the only thing that looks a little out of place to me.

It wouldn't look out of place if you played in a variety of bands like I do. I play me bass pretty low, and some bands with fingers, some with a thumb pick. When I play with a thumb pick, my wrist rests right on that section . ;)
 
I'm a big fan of bursts (honeybursts, sunbursts, etc) so I'm neutral to the relic job you did. The ashtray you added is a work of genius, though.

I was against the Fenderizing on the headstock initially, but I came to agree with it, eventually. You could have the coolest modded Squier ever, but the average person will still say, "ew, get a Fender". My initial fear when people change the decal is that someone will sell it as a Fender.
 
I'm a big fan of bursts (honeybursts, sunbursts, etc) so I'm neutral to the relic job you did. The ashtray you added is a work of genius, though.

I was against the Fenderizing on the headstock initially, but I came to agree with it, eventually. You could have the coolest modded Squier ever, but the average person will still say, "ew, get a Fender". My initial fear when people change the decal is that someone will sell it as a Fender.


I like bursts too, but in this case I would have had to completely strip the body, HOPE that the wood under the veneer was decent, and then re-shoot. By just doing the old Fender "shoot over top of the burst" trick, I was able to do the project in a single day with only a small amount of hassle. :)

Your concerns on the decal are a big part of why I didn't use a period correct restoration decal on it. This is indeed a Fender product, but should I eventually sell it, I didn't want any confusion - though the truss rod on the headstock is a dead giveaway for a Fender enthusiast. I also didn't apply finish over the decal, as they did in the70's.

Decals are always tricky, and the only reason this one has it is because 99.9% of the Bass IS a Fender - the capacitor being the only thing that isn't. I almost didn't put it on, but there is certainly justification in this case as well as it keeps the 'stock from looking "too plain".