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It doesn't indicate that at all. Look at the post again:
It doesn't indicate any more of a potential problem with the 6L6 than the 7027s, which people have indeed sometimes replaced.
Right, well that's the difference between a 300w tube PT and a 100w tube PT.> "So the idea is to stick tubes in there that run too hot for the chassis and just barely fit and then add a 3rd tranny to it to make sure the tubes run too hot for the chassis? Where's the payoff? Starting a fire is not much of a payoff if you ask me."
Yes, the conversion would use a 3rd tranny, just like an SVT.
I think the mention of fire is enough to dissuade most people
Well of course I'm the wrong guy to ask, but I suspect that it's because the 6L6 is the closest tube to the 7027 and it's made in good enough quantity for Ampeg to do a wide-release amp.
I hear ya. I just bought a Heritage SVT and 810e and swore I would only get one or the other. That lasted all of 3 days after I saw the V4B.
Given the street price of the new V4-B and the used price that I paid for the 2 Pro, I still would have bought the 2 Pro because dollars are dollars and watts are watts, and those things matter!
Ya, I'm no amp tweaker. I've done a little tube rolling, though, and the only time I've ever gotten a difference is in V1 preamp of any amp I've done it in, and most of the time I don't get much of a difference either, though there have been notable exceptions where I got huge differences, such as comparing Sylvania 6SL7's to Sovtek, or a NOS Russian 6N1P vs. a Sovtek in my REDDI. Actually preferred the Sovtek in my REDDI because the NOS tube gave it overly aggressive lows and came across a little muddy sometimes.Jimmy, the observations of your ears are backed up by science.
We recently had a discussion on one of the designers' sites about not being able to tell different brands of tubes apart by ear. My stance on the subject was that unless you're pushing the amp hard then you can't tell the tubes apart -- it's only when the amps get pushed into hard clipping that the differences between tubes become really obvious and tonally significant.
The reason for this is that the negative feedback loop is designed to compensate for any of the differences that may be exhibited by the different tubes; it's designed to zero-out those differences. As long as the feedback loop is working and it's gain hasn't been exceeded, then the different tubes should sound the same. Things fall apart when you exceed the capabilities of the NFB loop, so when you drive the amp really hard, that's when the differences become noticable.
If you can't tell the tubes apart in your amp, I'd wager that you're using your amps reasonably, not pushing them over their limits like a guitard, and the tubes sound the same to you because you're not exceeding the capabilities of the NFB circuit. If you really wanted to be able to tell the tubes apart, disconnecting the NFB loop would make the differences rather obvious, as the distortion would occur a lot sooner. But you probably would not like that kind of tone anyway.
