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AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

The Eminence KL3012CX-8 is an excellent bass speaker that delivers a low end pretty close to the 3012LF and extends to about 3.5kHz. In 1.8 cu-ft tuned to 51 Hz it will go down to about 40 Hz. It doesn’t have that huge 1.7kHz spike and is not dark like the 3012LF. It makes for simple construction but takes a 1001ASD HF driver and 3.5kHz hi pass filter. The treble is quite smooth but if you just want a single full range driver, the Beyma 12WR400 has a lot to offer.

The KL3012CX is a really good smooth-mids-cab woofer (and AMAZINGLY well-behaved for a big coaxial woofer) and I have worked out crossovers for it with a couple of different compression drivers, including the ASD1001. But given the rate at which my Hathor sales outpace my Thunderchild sales, I don't think another smooth-ish cab is likely to sell well, with or without a tweeter.

KL3015CH looks like a pretty good slightly-gnarly-cab woofer, and I generally like its zigs and zags, but haven't figured out a niche for it yet.

I hadn't considered the ceramic-magnet Beyma 12WR400, but its curve does look very nice for electric bass. I'm under the impression that relatively light weight is one of my selling points, but I'll do some modelling with the Beyma to make some comparisons. THANKS!!
 
Glad to hear you might still be able to do a 118 again, Duke. I took an earlier TC118 (with rear-firing horn and 1 switch) to practice yesterday and - hoo-baby! - that cab has serious authority. There's room to put your hands under the edge of the lowest notes it goes so deep. Mmmm...

I would love a high quality 118
 
@DukeLeJeune:
Would a modular Birdhaus solution - a 28 (obviously with each woofer loaded through its own panel, 90° from each other), eventually to be doubled or tripled as needed - be feasible as an alternative to the 48? As in, would it bring construction time down significantly, so as to make the cost of a pair similar to that of the original 4-drivered cab?
One would be a very compact solution for Kaffeehaus* gigs, and a pair could be used in a number of different configurations for tight stages, e.g. stacked right against a corner with woofers turned to be on only two sides (front + bandwards); or also, bottom cab as above + top cab with one driver toward the front, one firing upwards.

* (feel free to use this one commercially... :D)
 
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I have a question mainly for those of you with Hathor 1203 and Changeling 112 cabs: How often do you use the switches on the back? You see, I'm thinking about offering a switchless option to reduce weight and cost. The cab would be permanently voiced as if both switches are UP (a bit of grindy in the mids, and then full top-end extension).

I run all of my AK cabs with the switches set for the most full mids/highs, and I would be fine with a switchless option.
 
I wish I could say something that would make Duke's life/business easier, but the switches were big selling point for me. And although I don't play through the cab often these days, I still enjoy playing with the switches and port plug most of the time.

On the other hand, I think a lot of people may be drawn to the simplicity of a switchless cab.
 
I think Duke mentioned just a page or two downthread that he no longer plans to build 212’s or other cabs with two large main drivers. You know; for self-preservation.

You are right. My apologies.

Duke, do the 1x15 cabs (single woofer, but larger) present any such difficulties? Wishing you the best, health-wise and otherwise.
 
You are right. My apologies.

Duke, do the 1x15 cabs (single woofer, but larger) present any such difficulties? Wishing you the best, health-wise and otherwise.

I don't presume to speak for Duke on this, however based on my experience the 15's may be less desirable for him to build. I had two H1505 cabinets on order and was recently corresponding with Duke on how things were coming along. He mentioned the bigger cabinets had been giving him some trouble but he now had that figured out and mine should be coming up soon.

So, on that I offered to switch my order to two H1203T cabinets, and he accepted this offer. Part of that is Duke is a stand up guy and part of it, if I recall correctly, is he also said this would make things easier on him.

I consider this a win/win as I think it is better for me as well. When I ordered those two 1505's I was in the loudest band I had ever been in. That didn't last (surprising, I know!), and I am betting I'll get better use out of the pair of H1203Ts. I will likely only need one most of the time. I am currently using a pair of Rumble 115's that meet my needs volume wise (and often use only 1).
 
Glad to hear you might still be able to do a 118 again, Duke. I took an earlier TC118 (with rear-firing horn and 1 switch) to practice yesterday and - hoo-baby! - that cab has serious authority. There's room to put your hands under the edge of the lowest notes it goes so deep. Mmmm...

Still my favorite of any of Duke's cabs I've ever played through, although I've never heard a TC115. But oddly enough, it's mostly the (primary) tweeter in the TC118 that makes me say that.

Switches? Nah, not really a bonus for me. I've have been using the port plugs occasionally lately, but I rarely bothered to take them to gigs when I was still gigging.
 
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No worries. Glad you found it helpful.

Don't know if you saw my post, a few pages back, about playing the Hathor/Changeling stack at the outdoor charity event (and, earlier, in the too-loud bar, where I A/Bed the Handbox with a Quilter Bass Block) but, in short, I feel the head is a great match for the cabs tone- and feel-wise.

Given the power handling of the cabs (1000 Watts for the stack of two) and their moderate sensitivity, I wouldn't mind if the head (400 Watts @ 4 Ohms, guessing ~250 Watts @ 8 Ohms) were half-again as powerful. That said, if you're sharing your rig with people who might not use it as judiciously as you'd like, the cab-headroom isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Don't get me wrong -- I have and like kilowatt amps and have played them through multiple setups without issue, but I get nervous sharing a setup like that in certain situations. (Speaking of which, I might be wise to employ a CAUTION sign like you have, @31 hz, on certain amps.)

If I were looking for a single cab to pair with an amp like the Handbox and cover a variety of stuff, I'd probably be looking at one of the 4 Ohm, 15" Hathor cabs (note: I've only played the twelves). The 212 is of course a possibility -- and the form-factor might suit some folks and situations better -- but, from what I gather from the AK site and conversation here, the 15 is at least as sensitive as two 12s (98 dB/W/m vs. 97), though the two twelves will hit harder (two motors) and handle more power if push comes to shove.

I have a pair of the 1203 already, and I'm pretty sure that's where I'm going to be for the near future, anyway. The form factor works perfectly for me for the kind of gigs that I do and the 2018 Ford Escape that I'm driving these days, so no cab upgrades in the near future. One of my thoughts about the Handbox was how it would work with a single 8ohm 1203. I nearly always run two cabs these days, but it's nice to have the option.

How did you feel about the Quilter Bass Block? I've been trying to work out a rig where I don't feel the need to bring my Two Notes Le Bass and the rest of my board, but I'm also thinking that the Le Bass into the Bass Block would be really cool.
 
I have a lebass I should sell, wasnt a huge fan of it, its good just not my deal I did run it once through a poweramp into my TC112 it was ok but I wanted more mids

I love the Le Bass, but I'm primarily just running Channel A with a little bit of bass and treble boost and then adding in channel B when I want more grit or if I'm playing with a pick. I'm just wanting to use my board for recording or doing ampless gigs and leaving it home if I'm bringing an amp. I tried using it a few times to drive a power amp and likewise wasn't a big fan, but it works great for me in front of an amp and/or as a DI to FOH. I just don't get crazy with it.
 
I use a Quilter Bass Block and Tone Hammer DI with a TC112AF. I chose the Quilter in part because it was designed to take preamps. It’s a simple setup that meets my needs. From what I have read of others experiences, you can make the Quilter sound like anything you want with a good preamp in front of it.