• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

I ment
Duke, question: For the TC112AF, do you have a different grill that I could replace my "bug eye" grill with?

I love the cab, but the bug eye grill always bothered me a little bit. I thought I remember an alternative mentioned at some point, but don't remember exactly.

I mentioned Invalid Link Removed as a possible sub a while ago. I never got around to trying it though, since I'd most likely then feel compelled to do all my other cabs in like fashion and the waffle iron look is fine by me anyway. Link Removed
 
Duke, question: For the TC112AF, do you have a different grill that I could replace my "bug eye" grill with?

I love the cab, but the bug eye grill always bothered me a little bit. I thought I remember an alternative mentioned at some point, but don't remember exactly.
SpeakerHardware.com sells a honeycomb-style round grille that you might consider.
Edit: Thanks, Passinwind!
 
I ment


I mentioned Invalid Link Removed as a possible sub a while ago. I never got around to trying it though, since I'd most likely then feel compelled to do all my other cabs in like fashion and the waffle iron look is fine by me anyway. Link Removed

SpeakerHardware.com sells a honeycomb-style round grille that you might consider.
Edit: Thanks, Passinwind!

it looks good in real life.
 
Aesthetics are a lot less important to me when it comes to cabs. Basses, of course are another matter, but while I think a small badge somewhere with the Audiokinesis logo would be cool, I like how nondescript, anonymous, and low-key the TC212 looks. It's a sleeper.
 
Here's the language I quoted back in the earlier post:

Comparing the 1855 to the double 1203 stack, the 1855 has tighter, slightly bigger, almost growly lows. Very nice, and very addicting! The 2x1203 stack is a bit more warm/round down low, with more bloom. This can also be very nice in the right situation, and some folks will certainly prefer this kind of low end presentation.

Moving on to the midrange, this is where the meat of the story lies, and it’ll take some time to suss out the details. At first, the 1855 sounded more lean in the mids, but I think this is just the lower to middle mids. It is definitely more articulate and more present the upper mids. The more I played around, the more I felt like the 1855 had more peaks and valleys in the mids and the 1203’s were more consistent and balanced. One big caveat is that this initial round of testing was all done from a seated position a few feet in front of the cabs. I am guessing that as I move around, the perceived mids (and the relative balance through the mids) may vary quite a bit.

The “high end” (which might technically be the upper mids – not sure on this one) between the two was probably their most similar feature. The 1855 is a tad more pure and clean, and the 1203’s seemed to have more harmonic content through the highs. Both setups leave you wondering why you’d ever need a horn.

Now, things got interesting when I switched from my MTD 535 (a two-pickup, active bass) to my Carvin PB5 (a passive P-bass). The 1855 became much more burpy/growly and has a lot more upper mids. The 1203s were much more round and smooth by comparison. This was not a subtle transition, and I view this as a credit to the cabs’ (both the 1855 and the 1203’s) abilities to reflect the character of the signal being fed to them. In fact, the 1855 may be the best-performing cab that I have ever tried in this regard. First impressions can be misleading, mind you, but out of the gate, I was floored by its ability to just entirely transform its sound when switching instruments. The only potential downside to this is that if a player hears this cab at a GTG or demos one at home, unless he/she tries a variety of basses (and I’m guessing, amps) with the cab, they may not really get to know its capabilities.

Comparing the 1544 to the 1855 or the two 1203’s, the 1544 just sounds boxy and thin. With the right head (something big and meaty), this cab can sound great – especially when you throw some overdrive at it. But when I compare it to your other cabs, I definitely prefer the 1855 and 1203.​
 
Here's the language I quoted back in the earlier post:

Comparing the 1855 to the double 1203 stack, the 1855 has tighter, slightly bigger, almost growly lows. Very nice, and very addicting! The 2x1203 stack is a bit more warm/round down low, with more bloom. This can also be very nice in the right situation, and some folks will certainly prefer this kind of low end presentation.

Moving on to the midrange, this is where the meat of the story lies, and it’ll take some time to suss out the details. At first, the 1855 sounded more lean in the mids, but I think this is just the lower to middle mids. It is definitely more articulate and more present the upper mids. The more I played around, the more I felt like the 1855 had more peaks and valleys in the mids and the 1203’s were more consistent and balanced. One big caveat is that this initial round of testing was all done from a seated position a few feet in front of the cabs. I am guessing that as I move around, the perceived mids (and the relative balance through the mids) may vary quite a bit.

The “high end” (which might technically be the upper mids – not sure on this one) between the two was probably their most similar feature. The 1855 is a tad more pure and clean, and the 1203’s seemed to have more harmonic content through the highs. Both setups leave you wondering why you’d ever need a horn.

Now, things got interesting when I switched from my MTD 535 (a two-pickup, active bass) to my Carvin PB5 (a passive P-bass). The 1855 became much more burpy/growly and has a lot more upper mids. The 1203s were much more round and smooth by comparison. This was not a subtle transition, and I view this as a credit to the cabs’ (both the 1855 and the 1203’s) abilities to reflect the character of the signal being fed to them. In fact, the 1855 may be the best-performing cab that I have ever tried in this regard. First impressions can be misleading, mind you, but out of the gate, I was floored by its ability to just entirely transform its sound when switching instruments. The only potential downside to this is that if a player hears this cab at a GTG or demos one at home, unless he/she tries a variety of basses (and I’m guessing, amps) with the cab, they may not really get to know its capabilities.

Comparing the 1544 to the 1855 or the two 1203’s, the 1544 just sounds boxy and thin. With the right head (something big and meaty), this cab can sound great – especially when you throw some overdrive at it. But when I compare it to your other cabs, I definitely prefer the 1855 and 1203.​


Holy crap that's great Tom! Thanks! I think the pair of 1203s that Duke is building for me will be just the ticket. Much appreciated!
 
Not quite that simple - you have to drill holes through the grill (and rubber housing) where the existing holes are in the cab first. I installed one of these small hole grills on a TC115 and looks and works just fine. Good luck, DM

My cab doesn't have that mounting scheme -- there are no holes through the grill. Same with all the other ones I've played through. Is yours one that Mike A built by any chance? Here's Duke's standard mounting system:

gi.mpl?u=2112&f=TC115v2-001.jpg
 
Thank you very much, Tom and Mike and Charlie.

I think Tom's descriptions are right on the money. I kinda "voiced" the 1855 for what sounded good to me on p-bass, just 'cause. The low-F# version of the forthcoming 1533 uses a 15" version of that same woofer.

Thud, one thing to be aware of - the screws that hold the grille tabs in place are threaded into hurricane nuts (T-nut relatives) that are installed from the inside of the front baffle. So too much downward pressure with the screwdriver can push them out... not a disaster, but definitely a PITA. Fortunately you will need little or no downward pressure to keep the screwdriver engaged with the screw, but if you weren't aware you might inadvertently overdo.

Also, I strongly suggest not using an electric screwdriver, because you need to be able to feel if the screw is starting to bind. You don't want to spin the hurricane nut (again, PITA rather than outright disaster). If it starts to bind, back the screw out, hit it with a little WD-40, and have another careful go. I've never actually had that happen on a grille tab screw, but mention it just in case.

If you run into trouble, give me a call, my phone numbers are on my audiokinesis.com home page.
 
Last edited:

Latest posts