Thank you for reinforcing a message I deliver to my students every semester: constraints catalyze creativity!
I hadn't thought of it like that, but you're right. And it's a rather arbitrary, self-imposed constraint, but it did help me focus a bit better.
One of these days I still want to do the "suitcase cab", another exercise in seeing what can be done within constraints.
Alright, Thanks!

One just came to me...
Is there a version wih 10" drive units rather than the 12" one mentioned above(unless I misread, of course.)?
I generally prefer the tone I get with 10s.
The short answer is, no, I don't offer a 10" version.
Thank you steubig and Kjung for your replies. You both possess the gift of conciseness, which as you can see below, I do not!
So feel free to skip over the long version of my answer:
I subscribe to the school of thought that says other things besides driver diameter are the main factors in determining how a speaker sounds. Driver diameter directly affects the radiation pattern and is a factor (along with excursion) in how much air can be moved, but in my opinion the
shape of the frequency response curve is what dominates at low frequencies.
Often a speaker manufacturer will use the same motor (magnet + voice coil) on different size woofers, so what we have is essentially the same motor strength combined with different size and weight cones. The result is generally "tighter" low end from the smaller-diameter cones. But it is quite possible to make a larger-diameter cone that has the same "tight" characteristics - we just need to use a more powerful magnet (I'm making a few simplifying assumptions here, and for now I'm overlooking the role of the enclosure).
The Kappalite series of woofers from Eminence have very powerful motors, such that their 12" and even one of their 15" models are capable of the sort of tight low end we traditionally associate with multiple 10's. In fact, the 12" woofer used in the TC212, and in the 8-ohm version of the TC112, is a woofer that I've used in custom studio monitors, where low-end articulation is a high priority.
Now let's get back to the shape of the frequency response curve. In addition to the woofer's characteristics, the enclosure's characteristics play a major role here. The bigger the box, the more low end, generally speaking. But with a ported box, we also need to choose our tuning frequency carefully. This tuning might give us a more massive low end, while that tuning gives us a tighter, more articulate low end. So what I do is use round ports that can be easily and solidly plugged, changing the tuning frequency and thereby changing the shape of the low-frequency response curve.
Here's a photo of the back of a TC212:
With all three ports open, we get a fairly big bottom end. It's not the most massive out there by any means, but it's big for the size of the cab.
Plugging the middle port changes the shape of the response curve to more like what we might get from a good cab with 10's - tighter, more articulate low end. Unplugging the middle port but now plugging the top and bottom (I can explain why this configuration if you'd like) results in a rolloff more like a sealed box, for an even tighter low end. And all three ports plugged
is a sealed box, albeit one that will sound anemic in all but the most boomy of rooms.
Which brings up another advantage of the pluggable port system: If you show up to play and the room is intolerably boomy or muddy, you can plug ports and tighten up the low end and theoretically make a bad situation tolerable.
So anyway I think that I can deliver the kind of low end people like from multiple 10's in a smaller-footprint package.
Further up the spectrum, in the midrange region, I compensate for the relative limitations of my larger woofers by using a PA-style compression driver and a good horn so that I can bring the crossover point down lower than normal, in order to get a good blend between woofer and horn. I match up the radiation pattern of woofer and horn in the crossover region (not perfectly, but closer than most), and this helps the tonal balance to remain more uniform across a broad frontal arc. So once again, I think I can meet or exceed the performance of a roughly equivalent cabinet that uses 10's.
Now there is a very interesting 10" woofer out there, the Kappalite 3010LF. It uses the same motor as my 12" woofer. Unfortuantely its frequency response curve is more difficult to work with, so by the time I've tamed it, I've got a more expensive and possibly heavier box because of the additional high-power-handling inductors required in the crossover. The 3010LF is also less efficient, so our bang-per-buck as well as sound-per-pound both go down. And this woofer has a very powerful motor relative to its cone size and weight, which can result in a thin low end unless we tune the enclosure a bit higher than we might otherwise have (which introduces its own set of tradeoffs). So it's still a great 10" woofer, but imo it has a hard time competing with its 12" big brother, which is imo a super-great 12" woofer. Going with two Kappalite 3010LFs, we'd end up with a cab that's a little bit smaller, probably just as heavy and just as expensive if not moreso, that won't play as loud, and imo doesn't obviously do anything significantly better. Probably would have a little better articulation in some regions, but not by much.
Another very attractive 10" driver is the Faital 8PR200. Wait a minute - that's an 8"!! Yes it is, but it moves enough air to make it competitive with many 10's in that regard (though not the mighty Kappalite 10 mentioned above). I really like this woofer, but what I come up against is, its high cost relative to what it does. In a 2x10 (okay 2x8) using the Faital, we'd have a cab that definitely costs more than the Thunderchild 112, weighs more, and won't go as loud. Again we might have a little better articulation in some areas, but not by much.
Well that's probably a longer answer than you were looking for!