Yes, the tweet is defeatable. According to Avatar, the tweet all the way 'up' is flat, and can be cut down to 0 from there.
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Avatar 3 way 15/6/tweet
- Thread starter sleepytime
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Looks like I'll be getting a 700RB-II. I currently have an avatar B210 delta and a peavey tour 210, which I have not yet used together at a gig. I'm still thinking I can't pass up a TB153. Question is, should I get 4 or 8 ohms? If I get 4 ohms, I cant stack with a 2x10, but why would I? Is 350 watts at 8 ohms enough to move this cab, or should I be at 480 at 4 ohms?
I have experience with the low driver (in my LDS) but not the cab (yet). IME it's moderately efficient and gets very loud with 300 watts at 8 Ohms (certainly louder than any 210 I've heard), but it will compete handily with most 410s if you feed it 500 watts. If you want it to be a 1 cab solution and provide the volume of a 410 you'll need the 480 into 4 Ohms but if you want to run it with the 210 get the 8. The small worry nagging me is that from what I understand, it's possible that the 4 Ohm version involves compromises that may include efficiency.....ie the 4 Ohm MAY not be all that much louder than the 8 under the same head.....if that's the case I'll be flippin' it like a burger since I already have my LDS at 8 Ohms. This should be easy to determine with the 2 cabs side by side powered by the same heads.
I would go with 4 Ohms. I think the cab should be great as a stand alone cab and would be very loud with 480W into 4 Ohms. Unless you plan on playing some Really large venues without PA support, I don't think you'd need to pair the TB513 with another one, or with a 2x10.
I went through the same dilemma. For me, it's a paradigm shift. I have been stacking and pairing cabs for ages. I have a nice pairing with an Eden D210XLT and an Avatar SB112 NEO, but it would be nice to go to a 1 cab solution and the TB153 looks to be a great cab at a great price. I love my SB112 and was thinking about keeping it to stack in the TB153, but why??
That would make zero sense, as you've already stated. All the 12 will do is muddy the sound and risk being blown. A 210 pairing doesn't make much sense to me either. I agree and would go with 4 Ohms unless the plan is a pair of TB153s at 8 Ohms each with 1K watts for an ear-splitting stack.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
I have an SB112, and it made it to my rig and out the other side really quickly. I could never pair it with anything that the SB112 didn't 'hold back'. By that I mean the Avatar would distort and reach its maximum volume well before any of the other cabs did. It acts as an end table in our practice room.
I don't even have to guess that with the TB153 you'd be well louder with JUST the 15/3way than you'd ever be able to get with both.
Tonally, and this is just guessing from my having a 15/6+15/sub...I'd say the TB153 would be a VERY major upgrade. I was never impressed with the 112.
I agree totally. IMO, the cab is designed to be a standalone cab and with that head, @ 4 ohms, the cab should be plenty loud for almost any situation. Even on a Fest stage you should be able to hear 500w, especially with the cabs mighty woofer + midrange driver. As Ive said a hundred times, even if you start to reach the peak of a cabs usable volume, just turn down the bass a touch and let the low mids come through. Your tone will benefit.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
That would make zero sense, as you've already stated. All the 12 will do is muddy the sound and risk being blown. A 210 pairing doesn't make much sense to me either. I agree and would go with 4 Ohms unless the plan is a pair of TB153s at 8 Ohms each with 1K watts for an ear-splitting stack.[/QUOTE
+1
I figured why screw up a good thing by stacking another cab on the TB153 and risk muddying it up, so yesterday I ordered a 4 Ohm, and put my SB112 and D210XLT up for sale. I'm sure my LMII into a 4 Ohm SB513 will be more than enough for me.
Then I realized something. Part of my desire to stack cabs is I like the way it looks...Not a valid reason, so it's off to single cab land for me!
Of course, I just see the TB153, like most 15”, 3-way cabs, as the ideal standalone cab. I wouldn’t want to muck up the tone with another cab unless it was ideally matched. Two of them would probably be dynamite, especially with a mighty 1000w head. Do some real damage.
That's funny, you beat me to posting and said a lot of the same things I said!That would make zero sense, as you've already stated. All the 12 will do is muddy the sound and risk being blown. A 210 pairing doesn't make much sense to me either. I agree and would go with 4 Ohms unless the plan is a pair of TB153s at 8 Ohms each with 1K watts for an ear-splitting stack.[/QUOTE
+1
I figured why screw up a good thing by stacking another cab on the TB153 and risk muddying it up, so yesterday I ordered a 4 Ohm, and put my SB112 and D210XLT up for sale. I'm sure my LMII into a 4 Ohm SB513 will be more than enough for me.
Then I realized something. Part of my desire to stack cabs is I like the way it looks...
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Howzabout this for doing real damage:
Invalid Link Removed
8 pounds, $400 street and depending upon how you're running it you're looking at between 800w to 1.x kw per cab.
That's how I ended up at this thread. I blew my avatar 112 while it was paired with the 210. I wasnt sure whether to fix it or dump the whole system and do a TB153. I need a smaller cab for the practice room, so I couldnt really dump the 210. Then I found a Peavey Tour 210 at GC for next to nothing, so now I have a pair. But I still think Id like my tone more with the TB153.
Anyways, a 112 is a weak link when used with any any multi speaker cab. It'll be the first to blow.
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
I found the SB112 to sound boxy and uninspiring as well. I've thought of taking the stock speaker out and putting in a 3012HO which along with a bit of a once-over on the box would probably make it into a decent little full-range 112 cab. Not that it would compare to a 2 or 3 way cab, but would maybe make it usable for something.
I haven't played live with the TB153 yet, but I'm sure that it can handle just about any non-PA situation. I had a low volume apartment jam with two acoustic guitars yesterday and ran a drum machine through it along with the bass. Still sounded awesome, but the cab really blossoms when you throw some watts at it and get that 15 moving. If you're running a 500(ish) watt head then I definitely suggest getting a 4 ohm cab. The cab is very even across the frequency spectrum (to my ears) and doesn't need another cab to keep it company. Unless you plan on stacking 2 TB153's, stick with the 4 ohm. It'll do you just fine. Plus, adding other cabs that run their woofers full range, or have tweeters set at a different crossover frequency would probably only serve to make things less distinct. Different strokes, but I don't think this cab needs a homie.
I've a few posts about frying tweeters by turning them off. Is the general consensus that this is true? All the way off = bad, 25% = still good? Not sure on the electrical concepts of why this turning it off would be bad for it. Any insight?
IIRC, it isn't the tweeter that blows, but the L-pad in the crossover. The L-pad works by soaking up power that would otherwise go to the tweeter. The Avatars used a dinky little L-pad, like 15W or something like that, and their crossovers tend to bleed a significant amount of mids to the high band, so they would fry if forced to eat all the power meant for the tweeter.
Interesting. Thanks sleepy. So the L-pad will be working with any attenuation of the tweeter, it will just work harder the more it is turned up. If the L-pad goes, will that effect the entire cab/woofer/mid driver, or just the tweet?
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
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The L-pad works harder the more it's turned down. It absorbs whatever power the tweeter doesn't.
If the L-pad goes, the crossover is potentially next, or your amp. If you hate tweeters, just disconnect the whole shebang (including the crossover), or simply turn down the treble on your amp.
Also, in some cases if you run the tweeter way hot it may blow. The L-pad then has deal with all the power the tweeter was absorbing, and I've actually seen that failure mode a lot more often than the first one.
I'm guessing the safe way would be to just dial out highs on the amp or roll off the tone on the bass?
*or passinwinds response. I'm not very cab tech savvy and wouldn't feel comfortable screwing around in there to be honest.
*or passinwinds response. I'm not very cab tech savvy and wouldn't feel comfortable screwing around in there to be honest.
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