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Club Moollon

#1,161
I happened to be looking back at the Q and A that was posted (for other reasons) and stumbled across this. Here you go:

Q: Speaking of 1966, why no lollipops?
A: Operating a company at an ongoing deficit means that not all aesthetic variations can be accommodated. Vintage-correct materials and design win out over admittedly pleasant-looking vanities. Sorry, all Moollon basses until the last one made will have clovers ;)
 
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#1,163
Hey guys, I'm back with more sacrilege....

Lets say for the sake of argument, that I love everything about my JV and P5, except the 'period correct' truss rod access situation. If I could adjust the rod without taking off the neck, this would be a slam dunk. I play with pretty low action, so small shifts from humidity can have a big effect on action and playability.

So the question is: Is there any reasonable way to convert the truss rod nut from a flathead to a hex and elegantly remove some material to allow for adjusting the rod with the neck on and the strings at tension? My JV already has that area hogged out for this, but the flathead nut kinda makes it impossible to get any purchase.

Any thoughts or experience with this?


IMG_5286.jpeg
 
#1,164
J.Wolf said:
Hey guys, I'm back with more sacrilege....

Lets say for the sake of argument, that I love everything about my JV and P5, except the 'period correct' truss rod access situation. If I could adjust the rod without taking off the neck, this would be a slam dunk. I play with pretty low action, so small shifts from humidity can have a big effect on action and playability.

So the question is: Is there any reasonable way to convert the truss rod nut from a flathead to a hex and elegantly remove some material to allow for adjusting the rod with the neck on and the strings at tension? My JV already has that area hogged out for this, but the flathead nut kinda makes it impossible to get any purchase.

Any thoughts or experience with this?


View attachment 3767345
Click to expand...
Instead of changing the nut, you could try using a StewMac Telecaster truss crank:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Andi suggested this to me. I got one a few weeks ago, but haven't tried it yet—my Moollon is currently with my tech, and may be for many weeks to come. Here's what it looks like:

upload_2020-4-1_8-5-20.png
 
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#1,165
unresolved said:
Instead of changing the nut, you could try using a StewMac Telecaster truss crank:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Andi suggested this to me. I got one a few weeks ago, but haven't tried it yet—my Moollon is currently with my tech, and may be for many weeks to come. Here's what it looks like:

View attachment 3767476
Click to expand...

I did not know of the existence of such things. thanks! Maybe I'll start with this. Someone modded my JV to make access to the truss, but the P5 is still stock. If this tool works, I'll think about modding the P5.
 
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#1,167
J.Wolf said:
I did not know of the existence of such things. thanks! Maybe I'll start with this. Someone modded my JV to make access to the truss, but the P5 is still stock. If this tool works, I'll think about modding the P5.
Click to expand...

Twice19 said:
It's a paint can opener.. I dont know what Stew Mac charges for it, but they usually cost about .30¢. THere's a post way back in this thread from a Moollon owner that uses it.(a regular paint can opener)
Click to expand...
I have a truss rod adjustment slot routed out and use a paint can opener on my Moollon, but my truss rod screw is a Phillips shape and not flathead screw like in your picture.

Edit: and when I walked in to the hardware store asking for a paint can opener they just gave me one for free.
4EE6487A-A805-4C01-A52A-331FA2BFB152.jpeg
 
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#1,169
J.Wolf said:
Hey guys, I'm back with more sacrilege....

Lets say for the sake of argument, that I love everything about my JV and P5, except the 'period correct' truss rod access situation. If I could adjust the rod without taking off the neck, this would be a slam dunk. I play with pretty low action, so small shifts from humidity can have a big effect on action and playability.

So the question is: Is there any reasonable way to convert the truss rod nut from a flathead to a hex and elegantly remove some material to allow for adjusting the rod with the neck on and the strings at tension? My JV already has that area hogged out for this, but the flathead nut kinda makes it impossible to get any purchase.

Any thoughts or experience with this?


View attachment 3767345
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat as you - play with low action in here in SF Bay Area we only get rain in the winter and early spring (raining as I type this) so that usually means some movement in the neck over the course of the year. Much as I'd prefer a truss rod slot, I've gotten pretty good at quickly popping the neck off, tweaking the rod, and then putting it all back together. I loosen but don't remove the strings. It usually only needs a 1/4 turn or so and that this point it's about twice a year - once in fall/early winter when the rain starts, again in late spring when things start to dry up. Agree it's a bit of a pain but only takes maybe 10-15 mins total and for me not worth modding the bass. Interesting that it's usually the J's (IV, V) that need the adjustment, not the P's (IV, V). I've probably tweaking the JV the most but TBH I'm pretty sure I've only adjusted the PV once and that was a while ago. Seems to be more stable, maybe the added depth of the neck vs the J has something to do with it.
 
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#1,170
Have had some back and forth emails with Andi the last few months. They seem to be fairing well.

Also, have seen posts on the Moollon Bass FB page of people receiving new instruments and emails that they’re on the way.

Seems like things are chugging along.

I’m sure Andi will chime in at some point but seems like business as usual. Possibly a little slower pace than normal.

Twice19 said:
Does anyone know if Moollon is currently open during Corona season? I don't know about Seoul, but I know a lot of business are open in Busan
Click to expand...
 
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#1,171
kenny ames said:
Have had some back and forth emails with Andi the last few months. They seem to be fairing well.

Also, have seen posts on the Moollon Bass FB page of people receiving new instruments and emails that they’re on the way.

Seems like things are chugging along.

I’m sure Andi will chime in at some point but seems like business as usual. Possibly a little slower pace than normal.
Click to expand...
Good News! I have had a P4 on order since fall 19 and am waiting like a kid on Christmas eve.
 
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#1,175
Can anyone attest to their Moollon taking on a different tone by wrapping all the string around the pegs, instead of cutting them to a length? The shafts are so long compared to all others. I put a fresh set on the J5 the other night, but this time didn't clip off any string ends, and I swear, for the first time since buying the bass, I really dig the slap tone. Before it was a bit "rubbery". Same strings, same gauge, only difference is the lengths. Psychosomatic voodoo?
 
#1,177
dhagopian said:
Haven't noticed but I generally don't trim strings on the Moollon cause I need the windings to get the angle over the nut.
Click to expand...
I noticed when my bass arrived that the strings were full-length from Moollon.
When I changed them I cut them as I always do. I didn’t hear any difference I’d attribute to the wrapped post, though the difference in the string brand and type might have masked it.
They seemed fine both ways.
 
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#1,179
I'm thinking there must be other factors I'm not considering, but this is the third set of the same strings I've had on this bass since purchase. Keeping the string low for the nut is a benefit nonetheless. Hey, I'm not complaining.
 
#1,180
600 Ohms said:
I'm thinking there must be other factors I'm not considering, but this is the third set of the same strings I've had on this bass since purchase. Keeping the string low for the nut is a benefit nonetheless. Hey, I'm not complaining.
Click to expand...
Absolutely! Wrapping top down is the way to go no matter how long the string. That definitely does make a difference, IME.
 
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