Club Sadowsky!!!

[Sadowsky]

I took one of the troublesome SBP-1 pedals to my gig the other night, plugged it in to our desk via the XLR and it made the same massive noise and hum. Flicked the ground switch and it got worse, just like here at home.
The retailer send me a third pedal, it arrived Tuesday and it had the exact same hum problem again. I also noticed that I would get a little zap from my guitar cord every now and then when plugging and unplugging when connected to an amp and a mixer or interface.

Today I decided to get the multimeter out and see if the grounds were connected between the 1/4" and XLR. I found the XLR has been mis-wired on all 3 new pedals sent to me. Pins 1 and 2 are reversed compared to my old pedal and other standard DI boxes I have. The reversed wiring puts the ground connection onto the signal + pin and vice versa. Hence the hum. So there must be a batch issue.

Here's a photo where I've circled the ground pin on the new pedal (left), and my old pedal (right). At least I know what it is now. Hopefully Warwick/Sadowsky can remedy as I'd like to replace my scratchy old SBP-1.
View attachment 5231004

Mark….please email your findings to [email protected]

 

[Mark Hughes]

Mark….please email your findings to [email protected]

I’ve passed on my findings as well as pictures.

 

[Sadowsky]

Dear Mark Hughes,

You have described the problem quite accurately, we had in the past a few items

of a batch where the Pin 1 and 3 were accidentally soldered on the PCB the wrong

way round in the production. This is fixed in the new run but there are a few

devices still in circulation, because you will only notice this fault by using

the XLR-out in a special enviroment, when using in between bass and amp everything

works fine.



Resoldering around the two pins 1 and 2 solves the problem immediately.



I hope I was assisting with the answer and sorry for this problem which



with best regards




Framus & Warwick GmbH & Co Music Equipment KG


Hans-Peter Wilfer 31.10.2023, 18:32
Founder

 

[Mark Hughes]

Dear Mark Hughes,

You have described the problem quite accurately, we had in the past a few items

of a batch where the Pin 1 and 3 were accidentally soldered on the PCB the wrong

way round in the production. This is fixed in the new run but there are a few

devices still in circulation, because you will only notice this fault by using

the XLR-out in a special enviroment, when using in between bass and amp everything

works fine.



Resoldering around the two pins 1 and 2 solves the problem immediately.



I hope I was assisting with the answer and sorry for this problem which



with best regards




Framus & Warwick GmbH & Co Music Equipment KG


Hans-Peter Wilfer 31.10.2023, 18:32
Founder

Thanks Roger and Hans-Peter. Yes I re-soldered the pins on the XLR using my old SBP-1 as a reference, and the new pedal works normally now. Great pedal, I love this with my passive Basses.

 

[Addison]

Happy Halloween!!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/MiPZVIrudVo?si=DHhtxLjNhovEamVd

 

[Addison]

Speaking of Halloween … here’s one of me as “Fat, Bearded, Lefty Jerry Only” at one of the several Halloween parties and/or gigs over the last couple weeks. Haha

 

[Chadwick123]

Interesting issue I discovered that perhaps someone from this group knows about. I recently swapped the 20 mm spacing bridge on my PJ4 (pic attached) to a 19 mm Roger sent me. I much prefer the feel of the 19 and it was an easy swap.

A day later I notice that the A string is getting a nasty buzz/rattle when the open string is slapped or plucked hard. It sounded like the springs on the saddle screws were going crazy, but deadening them made no difference.

Then something occurred to me… the 19mm bridge has the ball ends of the strings sitting right against the edges of the intonation screws, instead of fully separated like the 20 has. I realized that when I was adjusting intonation, my screwdriver was scratching up the ball ends of the strings - especially the A string. So, I removed the string and spun the ball end so that the chewed up portion wasn’t making contact with the intonation screw, and it seems to have significantly improved things. Now, I just hear a little buzz from the springs that does go away when deadening them. But, it isn’t maddening like it was.

I noticed that the Sadowsky 5 string bridge also puts the ball ends resting up against the intonation screws, but I’ve always used a smaller screwdriver to adjust that bridge than the one I was using on the 4, and it rubs the ball ends less - although still a little bit.

Nevertheless, it seems like this bridge design favors loosening the string between intonation adjustments to avoid damaging the ball ends of the strings. I never thought scratching the ball ends of the strings really mattered, but unless I have this issue diagnosed totally wrong, I think it does matter when the ball end is making metal to metal contact with the screw. ‍

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also, has anyone using DR strings found that there has been more inconsistency from pack to pack lately? I’ve been finding more and more single bad strings in a pack lately across various DR sets that either don’t intonate well, or have inconsistent response. For example, the A string I chewed up the ball end of is one of those with a lot of fret rattle on the open string, almost like the nut is too low. But, it’s not the nut because putting another string on solves it.

Mo bases, mo problems.

 

[Sadowsky]

I don't understand how you can hear any of this when playing through an amp.

 

[Chadwick123]

I don't understand how you can hear any of this when playing through an amp.

Lol. You can’t! I need to get this bass out of my office and onto the stage asap!! I love this response Roger, for real. Thanks for putting up with my neuroses.

 

[Sadowsky]

Lol. You can’t! I need to get this bass out of my office and onto the stage asap!! I love this response Roger, for real. Thanks for putting up with my neuroses.

My shingle says: "Bassmaker, Bass repairs, Bass Psychotherapy!

 

[Chadwick123]

My shingle says: "Bassmaker, Bass repairs, Bass Psychotherapy!

For real! One of the best things anyone ever said to me was when I dinged the top of my 5er, and when I sent you the pic, you said, “congrats on your first piece of mojo, many more to come!”

and some more has come indeed!

 

[Addison]

Interesting issue I discovered that perhaps someone from this group knows about. I recently swapped the 20 mm spacing bridge on my PJ4 (pic attached) to a 19 mm Roger sent me. I much prefer the feel of the 19 and it was an easy swap.

A day later I notice that the A string is getting a nasty buzz/rattle when the open string is slapped or plucked hard. It sounded like the springs on the saddle screws were going crazy, but deadening them made no difference.

Then something occurred to me… the 19mm bridge has the ball ends of the strings sitting right against the edges of the intonation screws, instead of fully separated like the 20 has. I realized that when I was adjusting intonation, my screwdriver was scratching up the ball ends of the strings - especially the A string. So, I removed the string and spun the ball end so that the chewed up portion wasn’t making contact with the intonation screw, and it seems to have significantly improved things. Now, I just hear a little buzz from the springs that does go away when deadening them. But, it isn’t maddening like it was.

I noticed that the Sadowsky 5 string bridge also puts the ball ends resting up against the intonation screws, but I’ve always used a smaller screwdriver to adjust that bridge than the one I was using on the 4, and it rubs the ball ends less - although still a little bit.

Nevertheless, it seems like this bridge design favors loosening the string between intonation adjustments to avoid damaging the ball ends of the strings. I never thought scratching the ball ends of the strings really mattered, but unless I have this issue diagnosed totally wrong, I think it does matter when the ball end is making metal to metal contact with the screw. ‍

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also, has anyone using DR strings found that there has been more inconsistency from pack to pack lately? I’ve been finding more and more single bad strings in a pack lately across various DR sets that either don’t intonate well, or have inconsistent response. For example, the A string I chewed up the ball end of is one of those with a lot of fret rattle on the open string, almost like the nut is too low. But, it’s not the nut because putting another string on solves it.

Mo bases, mo problems.

While I never do it because I’m lazy and it’s a pain, it’s always kind of a good idea to slack the string a little bit before you make an intonation adjustment and then reset the witness point, tune and check again. It takes forever, but the extra strain a full tension string puts on the saddle will damage the bridge plate and even make it hard enough to turn the screws so they strip. Like I said - I’m lazy and don’t normally do it, but I think it’s probably the “safest” way to go about it.

As far as DR goes, I don’t want to start a pile-on but I have used DR strings for like 25 years and never had an issue until like 10 years ago. Started getting occasional dead strings all the time and even bought an entire set of 10 where EVERY single E string was dead.

Every time I called them when I had an issue, their immediate tactic was to blame me. Every time. I would then have to go through the routine to tell them how long I’ve been using their strings, how I install them properly, with full explanation that I bend the string before I cut it and slowly bring up to tension - you get what I mean.

When I had an entire set of 10 with a dead E, I called in and the guy I talked to was incredulous to the point where I sent him video and audio samples and he asked me to send them in. I called him after they received them and he had the nerve to tell me that they were tested and there was nothing wrong with them.

I did end up getting replacements and they’ve all been good, but that was a bad enough experience where I’ve wanted to move to something else. It just sucks because I LOVE their Hi-Beams and I’m a big fan of round core strings, which are on the rare side.

I’ve gone through about a dozen other possibilities and think I might’ve landed on Rotosounds. I’m not even certain if they’re round core anymore (I know for sure they used to be), but their tension feels like they are.

GHS also makes nickel round core, but hardly anyone carries them for some reason.

Anyway - rant over, but wanted to share that.

 

[nickpc]

Bass Psychotherapy!

Hey Roger - maybe you can help me out here. My non-Sadowsky basses all feel very neglected - I just don't play them much. How can I tell them I still love them, I just love my Sadowsky basses more, without hurting their feelings too much?

 

[Sadowsky]

While I never do it because I’m lazy and it’s a pain, it’s always kind of a good idea to slack the string a little bit before you make an intonation adjustment and then reset the witness point, tune and check again. It takes forever, but the extra strain a full tension string puts on the saddle will damage the bridge plate and even make it hard enough to turn the screws so they strip. Like I said - I’m lazy and don’t normally do it, but I think it’s probably the “safest” way to go about it.

As far as DR goes, I don’t want to start a pile-on but I have used DR strings for like 25 years and never had an issue until like 10 years ago. Started getting occasional dead strings all the time and even bought an entire set of 10 where EVERY single E string was dead.

Every time I called them when I had an issue, their immediate tactic was to blame me. Every time. I would then have to go through the routine to tell them how long I’ve been using their strings, how I install them properly, with full explanation that I bend the string before I cut it and slowly bring up to tension - you get what I mean.

When I had an entire set of 10 with a dead E, I called in and the guy I talked to was incredulous to the point where I sent him video and audio samples and he asked me to send them in. I called him after they received them and he had the nerve to tell me that they were tested and there was nothing wrong with them.

I did end up getting replacements and they’ve all been good, but that was a bad enough experience where I’ve wanted to move to something else. It just sucks because I LOVE their Hi-Beams and I’m a big fan of round core strings, which are on the rare side.

I’ve gone through about a dozen other possibilities and think I might’ve landed on Rotosounds. I’m not even certain if they’re round core anymore (I know for sure they used to be), but their tension feels like they are.

GHS also makes nickel round core, but hardly anyone carries them for some reason.

Anyway - rant over, but wanted to share that.

Regardless of the manufacturer....the reason round core strings have such a very high rate of defective strings is due to the inability of the wrap wire to hold firmly against the core wire. Hex core is superior in that regard. I understand why players like round core, but expect a lot of defective strings if you use round core.

 

[Addison]

Regardless of the manufacturer....the reason round core strings have such a very high rate of defective strings is due to the inability of the wrap wire to hold firmly against the core wire. Hex core is superior in that regard. I understand why players like round core, but expect a lot of defective strings if you use round core.

I concede your point, but I can only assume that manufacturers who specialize in round core strings would also understand this fact and be a little more understanding and less accusatory when it comes to string failures and replacements through customer service.

If they want to build the extra risk of failure into the cost of the string (DR strings aren’t cheap as it is), I’m ok with that too.

If I love something and the customer service is good, I’m willing to pay a premium. I mean, it’s why I’m here.

EDIT: It’s also worth noting that I never really had a problem with Hi-Beams before about 10 years ago. Could purely be that my luck has changed, but it’s strange that’s the case.

 

[HeavyJazz]

^^^This. Hence a loyal DR Lo-Rider Nickel/Steel user since 1996. My Sadowskys love them!

 

[R&B]

Hey Roger - maybe you can help me out here. My non-Sadowsky basses all feel very neglected - I just don't play them much. How can I tell them I still love them, I just love my Sadowsky basses more, without hurting their feelings too much?

Ditto. The passive basses are not feeling the love, as I always reach for a Sadowsky.

I am even starting to think the War Department might be correct when she says (often), “You have too many basses!”

 

[Joebone]

Regardless of the manufacturer....the reason round core strings have such a very high rate of defective strings is due to the inability of the wrap wire to hold firmly against the core wire. Hex core is superior in that regard. I understand why players like round core, but expect a lot of defective strings if you use round core.

Isn't this why DR provide explicit instructions re crimping and cutting the tuning head ends? I like round core for the feel, and DR Pure Blues and Sunbeams for that and the nickel - have been using them for like 15 years, and rarely have had a bad string.

 

[nickpc]

Ditto. The passive basses are not feeling the love, as I always reach for a Sadowsky.

I am even starting to think the War Department might be correct when she says (often), “You have too many basses!”

I don't have too many basses, I just have more than I can play regularly!

 

[vision]

While I never do it because I’m lazy and it’s a pain, it’s always kind of a good idea to slack the string a little bit before you make an intonation adjustment and then reset the witness point, tune and check again. It takes forever, but the extra strain a full tension string puts on the saddle will damage the bridge plate and even make it hard enough to turn the screws so they strip. Like I said - I’m lazy and don’t normally do it, but I think it’s probably the “safest” way to go about it.

As far as DR goes, I don’t want to start a pile-on but I have used DR strings for like 25 years and never had an issue until like 10 years ago. Started getting occasional dead strings all the time and even bought an entire set of 10 where EVERY single E string was dead.

Every time I called them when I had an issue, their immediate tactic was to blame me. Every time. I would then have to go through the routine to tell them how long I’ve been using their strings, how I install them properly, with full explanation that I bend the string before I cut it and slowly bring up to tension - you get what I mean.

When I had an entire set of 10 with a dead E, I called in and the guy I talked to was incredulous to the point where I sent him video and audio samples and he asked me to send them in. I called him after they received them and he had the nerve to tell me that they were tested and there was nothing wrong with them.

I did end up getting replacements and they’ve all been good, but that was a bad enough experience where I’ve wanted to move to something else. It just sucks because I LOVE their Hi-Beams and I’m a big fan of round core strings, which are on the rare side.

I’ve gone through about a dozen other possibilities and think I might’ve landed on Rotosounds. I’m not even certain if they’re round core anymore (I know for sure they used to be), but their tension feels like they are.

GHS also makes nickel round core, but hardly anyone carries them for some reason.

Anyway - rant over, but wanted to share that.

Same story almost word for word from me on DR strings. I played on DR Hi Beams from when I first started playing bass in the mid-late 90s. Never had an issue until around 10-12 years ago when I started getting dead strings in packs. I was typically able to get replacements from whatever retailer I got them from, but at a certain point I called DR to see what the issue was, and they acted likely they’d never heard of an issue at all. I also always followed their instructions regarding bending/cutting.

One day I opened a pack with three dead strings in it and I was done. Switched to La Bella and never looked back.