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Dingwall Owners Club

Hm. I wonder if the rumoured new workshop space for Dingwall Canada is going to offset or just keep pace with the sudden surge of popularity recently?

The new shop space is very real. To my understanding, it will be just to help pick the pace of Combustions. I'm sure that will help with some of the Canadian wait times as well. I know Sheldon recently hired some fellow out of Edmonton to come in and help.
 
Well, after about two months of shedding and rehearsals, I played my first full gig with a 6 string - my ABII. I may become addicted to having a C string. Anyway, I'm thinking about replacing the Agular OB-3 preamp with something else. I have a Glockenklang that I took out of my Z3 and replaced with a DG Tone Capsule. However, the Z3 is a three pickup bass and the selector switch is set up for that. The ABII is a two-pickup bass (FD3s). Also, as you can see, the ABII has a cut-out for three toggle switches (scoop switch, active-passive, and a third switch that does nothing that I can discern.) Not sure what to do. Any ideas?

View attachment 2985140


Stackable 3 band glock then you won’t have to drill holes. You could have 2 of the switches for series/parallel and the 3rd could be a mute/kill!?!? Or something. Maybe a blank. Pull it out and put an LED in there that actives when goes to active from the push/pull of the glockenklang.

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Looking further I think the stackable is still active/passive but no treble blend in passive.
 
I’m a newbie to the world of Dingwall basses. I believe this was mentioned some time ago, but do any of you that own the NG-2s/Combustions find the new bridges to have very sharp corners on the saddles? I just can’t get along with them. The problem is that the bass(NG-2) sounds so fantastic that I’m willing to work with it.

What do you guys make of the aftermarket Payson bridge?
I did notice that when restringing my ng2 5 but it’s not an issue at all while I’m playing because I’m always playing over the pickups or closer to the neck.
 
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Stackable 3 band glock then you won’t have to drill holes. You could have 2 of the switches for series/parallel and the 3rd could be a mute/kill!?!? Or something. Maybe a blank. Pull it out and put an LED in there that actives when goes to active from the push/pull of the glockenklang.

Invalid Link Removed

Looking further I think the stackable is still active/passive but no treble blend in passive.
Thanks brother. All good ideas My luthier is Kenneth Lawrence so I'm not nervous about adding another hole for the third tone pot!
 
Thanks brother. All good ideas My luthier is Kenneth Lawrence so I'm not nervous about adding another hole for the third tone pot!
Yeah, I think the Glock would be the thing for that bass. Upper note sheen...yeah. One reason I am excited about the Combustion 3x 6-strings. Not that they will have the Glockenklang but that the EMG should have nice upper notes.
 
Well, after about two months of shedding and rehearsals, I played my first full gig with a 6 string - my ABII. I may become addicted to having a C string. Anyway, I'm thinking about replacing the Agular OB-3 preamp with something else. I have a Glockenklang that I took out of my Z3 and replaced with a DG Tone Capsule. However, the Z3 is a three pickup bass and the selector switch is set up for that. The ABII is a two-pickup bass (FD3s). Also, as you can see, the ABII has a cut-out for three toggle switches (scoop switch, active-passive, and a third switch that does nothing that I can discern.) Not sure what to do. Any ideas?

View attachment 2985140

So what all do you have in the Z3? Did you pull the selector switch?
 
So what all do you have in the Z3? Did you pull the selector switch?
@NaH - My Z3 was a spec bass I purchased from Bass San Diego. Not a custom order. Anyway, it came from Dingwall with the Glockenklang preamp. I subsequently custom ordered my SJ5 with a Glock pre, so I decided to put something different in the Z3 - which was a DG Tone Capsule. Very happy with both of these preamps. The Aguilar in the ABII is a fine preamp, but not as refined as either the Glock or Tone Capsule.
 
Dingwall gurus ~ been wanting a Super P for years now, and I’m looking to trade my insanity sweet Spector NS-2 for a Super P, or P/J. Couple questions for you folks; I’m not a 5er guy....never played one for more than 5 minutes. Mainly due to a fat neck profile at the nut. 1.65 seems to be my sweet spot. So, as far as comparison between 5ers, how do Super P’s rate for nut width? Also, I’m assuming these basses can be tuned EADGC with zero negative impact on the neck?

Thanks for the help!
@NaH - My Z3 was a spec bass I purchased from Bass San Diego. Not a custom order. Anyway, it came from Dingwall with the Glockenklang preamp. I subsequently custom ordered my SJ5 with a Glock pre, so I decided to put something different in the Z3 - which was a DG Tone Capsule. Very happy with both of these preamps. The Aguilar in the ABII is a fine preamp, but not as refined as either the Glock or Tone Capsule.
For those who may be curious what the Darkglass Tone Capsule looks like...
20180415_175853.jpg
 
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@NaH - My Z3 was a spec bass I purchased from Bass San Diego. Not a custom order. Anyway, it came from Dingwall with the Glockenklang preamp. I subsequently custom ordered my SJ5 with a Glock pre, so I decided to put something different in the Z3 - which was a DG Tone Capsule. Very happy with both of these preamps. The Aguilar in the ABII is a fine preamp, but not as refined as either the Glock or Tone Capsule.

I guess my confusion was about the selector switches, as you'd mentioned them being different, but I didn't think that mattered as far as the pre was concerned.
 
I guess my confusion was about the selector switches, as you'd mentioned them being different, but I didn't think that mattered as far as the pre was concerned.
@NaH - I'm not an electronics guy. I assumed the selector switch was integrated into the Glock pre. If I can use my existing ABII selector switch with the Glock I took out of my Z3- problem solved.
 
Anybody got a 3x Dingwall Rotary (w/screw terminals) they are looking to unload?
@NaH - I'm not an electronics guy. I assumed the selector switch was integrated into the Glock pre. If I can use my existing ABII selector switch with the Glock I took out of my Z3- problem solved.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but in your picture showing the Tone Capsule, I see the 3x selector right behind it and my understanding is you're just taking a 2-wire feed from the selector into the pre (at least that is how the wiring looked on the 2x), so yeah - I think you're good.
 
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Anybody got a 3x Dingwall Rotary (w/screw terminals) they are looking to unload?


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but in your picture showing the Tone Capsule, I see the 3x selector right behind it and my understanding is you're just taking a 2-wire feed from the selector into the pre (at least that is how the wiring looked on the 2x), so yeah - I think you're good.
My guess is that the four wires going to the tone capsule are input signal, ground, +9 volts, and output signal.
 
I got a set of D'Addario NYXL's on one of my basses and really like them. I see they come in a 38" scale length ("super long") from ball to taper. Anybody here strung up their 5 string Combustion or Afterburner with these? Wondering if they are long enough and not at home to measure.
 
I got a set of D'Addario NYXL's on one of my basses and really like them. I see they come in a 38" scale length ("super long"). Anybody here strung up their 5 string Combustion or Afterburner with these?
Not familiar with those exact strings, but you can measure your Dingwall from the string's ball end to the headstock side of the nut and confirm whether the wound portion of the B string will be long enough to pass through your nut. (Guessing it may be a tad short, but not sure.)
 
Not familiar with those exact strings, but you can measure your Dingwall from the string's ball end to the headstock side of the nut and confirm whether the wound portion of the B string will be long enough to pass through your nut. (Guessing it may be a tad short, but not sure.)
I edited my post as you were replying. :-)
I can measure when I get home but was thinking about buying some strings before then. Guess I'll have to wait.
 
I edited my post as you were replying. :)
I can measure when I get home but was thinking about buying some strings before then. Guess I'll have to wait.
I vaguely recall that you need at least 37 1/4" of winding, but I'm at the office and could be misremembering, so you should get the measurement from somebody who has a bass handy, and you'd also need the wound length of the strings, which means opening up a package unless somebody happens to have a set handy. You might have better luck finding somebody who has a set of those in the Strings forum, or just calling D'Addario at 631-439-3300 to ask them. They close at 5PM EDT. Most longscale folks on this Forum use strings from Dingwall, Payson or Kalium.
 
I vaguely recall that you need at least 37 1/4" of winding, but I'm at the office and could be misremembering, so you should get the measurement from somebody who has a bass handy, and you'd also need the wound length of the strings, which means opening up a package unless somebody happens to have a set handy. You might have better luck finding somebody who has a set of those in the Strings forum, or just calling D'Addario at 631-439-3300 to ask them. They close at 5PM EDT. Most longscale folks on this Forum use strings from Dingwall, Payson or Kalium.
I have been using Dingwall strings but just wanted to see what other options were out there.
 
Guys, What do you all use for alternate knobs and/or stacked knobs? I didn't see any available on the Dingwall site. I suppose stuff from All Parts, Warmoth, Stew Mac, etc. would all be fine? Thanks.
Each knob needs to be correct for the pot shaft it’s mounting onto, so a stacked pot will have 2 different shaft sizes.

Beyond that; there really aren’t any rules
 
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