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Dingwall Owners Club

What a night. Played a private. Brought my ABII jazzwall. My main bass now. Intermittent loss of sound on first song. Thought it was the cord. Switched cords. Wrong. Ok, must be my speaker cables. Wrong. Maybe something on my pedal board? Bypassed pedal board. Wrong. Still bad connection. Figure it out by process of elimination. Bad jack on the AB. Lucky, I also brought my NG2, which I rarely do. Plug it in. Nothing. What the F? Extremely frustrated. Took a break. I usually leave my NG2 plugged in at home (practice bass). OK. Must be the batteries. Had two new 9 volts in my gig bag. Put in new batteries. Bingo. Resume Play. I deserve a looong stretch of trouble-free gigs now.:woot::woot:
 
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Been loving my Combustion 5 but I think it needs a seasonal neck adjustment.

1. What's the factory relief? I watched the Dingwall videos but he measures with Dunlop picks. Which feeler gauge?

2. Also, there's three allen screws on each monorail bridge. Two are for the bridge height. What's the third in the back for? I've heard it's for adjusting spacing. If so,

3. How do you adjust intonation ?

Thanks.
 
Been loving my Combustion 5 but I think it needs a seasonal neck adjustment.

1. What's the factory relief? I watched the Dingwall videos but he measures with Dunlop picks. Which feeler gauge?

2. Also, there's three allen screws on each monorail bridge. Two are for the bridge height. What's the third in the back for? I've heard it's for adjusting spacing. If so,

3. How do you adjust intonation ?

Thanks.

Checkout the setup videos:

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What a night. Played a private. Brought my ABII jazzwall. My main bass now. Intermittent loss of sound on first song. Thought it was the cord. Switched cords. Wrong. Ok, must be my speaker cables. Wrong. Maybe something on my pedal board? Bypassed pedal board. Wrong. Still bad connection. Figure it out by process of elimination. Bad jack on the AB. Lucky, I also brought my NG2, which I rarely do. Plug it in. Nothing. What the F? Extremely frustrated. Took a break. I usually leave my NG2 plugged in at home (practice bass). OK. Must be the batteries. Had two new 9 volts in my gig bag. Put in new batteries. Bingo. Resume Play. I deserve a looong stretch of trouble-free gigs now.:woot::woot:

One of the things that Mo did to my fretless was drop in an active bypass (it still retains the preamp on/offs), so if a battery does fail, you can drop to passive and still make sounds.

Also, I keep a few of the Neutrik locking jacks at home just in case. They don't last forever...and I've changed out the rastaburst once or twice across a few hundred gigs.
 
Question:

If one were to purchase an NG or a D-Bird Standard and wanted to change the hardware to black, How would one go about that? I'm guessing the tuners can be replaced with standard Hipshots, but the bridge is probably another story...

Bridge is hipshot as well, I have ordered them in the past.
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It would be significantly cheaper to have the bridge parts that come with bass powder coated or painted.
 
I thought I'd read that those were also Hipshot bridges, but the Solo bridge on the Hipshot website doesn't look quite the same. I was confused. Thanks!

Yep the standard solo bridge is slightly different. You have to special order the Dingwall version. They run about $35 a piece plus shipping.
I know that some people have tried to order them from hipshot recently but were told they aren’t available. So you can give em a try. The standard rails would likely be the same fit but the design isn’t as nice.
If i were to do it again I would 100% get the standard chrome ones powder coated rather than buy a whole new set.
 
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Thanks. I rewatched the truss rod video. I missed the part where he said .015. However, none of them explain (unless I missed it) what the odd allen screw does. The intonation video seems to show that the saddle is free-floating (that is, no screws to do it) and you just push it forward or back. Correct?

Combustion’s have a spring and screw like a normal fender bridge to do the intonation.
The 3rd Allen key adjustment on the bridge peices changes the string spacing, don’t adjust that!
 
Thanks. I rewatched the truss rod video. I missed the part where he said .015. However, none of them explain (unless I missed it) what the odd allen screw does. The intonation video seems to show that the saddle is free-floating (that is, no screws to do it) and you just push it forward or back. Correct?
With the "old" style of bridge shown in that video the odd screw on the saddle needs to be loosened before the free-floating saddle can be moved around. Both my NG2s have that bridge system and that's how I change the intonation. Loosen the string, loosen that screw, then very carefully move the saddle back and forth. When that screw is tightened it keeps the saddle from freely moving around.
 
Combustion’s have a spring and screw like a normal fender bridge to do the intonation.
The 3rd Allen key adjustment on the bridge peices changes the string spacing, don’t adjust that!
The "old" style bridges are different. The saddle pieces freely float in the bridge, and there are three screws - 2 to adjust action, 1 to loosen the saddle for changing intonation. There is no string spacing adjustment.
 
To differentiate.

The first handful of years' Combustions have what's considered "ABM style bridge pieces" by hipshot. the additional screw on those does lock down the saddle carriage once you've intonated it properly.

The newer models have a variant of the Mono bridge, also by hipshot, but closer in design to a traditional Fender style saddle bridge (though single pieces too). The additional hex screw on the top of those saddles (to the back) locks in the string spacing adjustment. It's best not to mess with that if you're doing action or intonation. It's not related to any of those adjustments.
 

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