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Dingwall Owners Club

You should sell me that Z instead
Sorry brother, that's my main player. ;)

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Hi fellow Dingwall lovers,

I’m doing a “P/J” conversation on one of my SJ5’s and I had hoped to be able to use the preexisting mounting points that Dingwall has so kindly provided on the bass.
However after receiving my new Dingwall P pickup, I’ve found that the mounting points on the bass do not correspond to the newer pickup.
So.....what might be the best way to determine the optimal mounting location for the new P pickup?
Many thanks in advance!
 
Hi fellow Dingwall lovers,

I’m doing a “P/J” conversation on one of my SJ5’s and I had hoped to be able to use the preexisting mounting points that Dingwall has so kindly provided on the bass.
However after receiving my new Dingwall P pickup, I’ve found that the mounting points on the bass do not correspond to the newer pickup.
So.....what might be the best way to determine the optimal mounting location for the new P pickup?
Many thanks in advance!
I'm surprised the mounting points don't match the pickup! Was the design changed along the way?

When I converted my SJ to PJ, there were no mounting points for the P. It was an earlier model with the active glock pre. I ordered a new pickguard at the same time as the P pickup from the Dingwall shop. That was when they still made 'after market' pickguards. I was able to use the pickguard as a template to position the P. The shop included the brass threaded thingys with the pickup. Drilled the proper size holes and pushed the brass inserts into the hole. (measure a million times, friend with a drill press...)

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Maybe someone can send you a template or actual pickguard that matches your bass to help you position the pickup. You're going to need a new pickguard anyway.
 
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D93E88DD-47A6-4593-9D62-D2F9FC5AF7D1.jpeg
I'm surprised the mounting points don't match the pickup! Was the design changed along the way?

When I converted my SJ to PJ, there were no mounting points for the P. It was an earlier model with the active glock pre. I ordered a new pickguard at the same time as the P pickup from the Dingwall shop. That was when they still made 'after market' pickguards. I was able to use the pickguard as a template to position the P. The shop included the brass threaded thingys with the pickup. Drilled the proper size holes and pushed the brass inserts into the hole. (measure a million times, friend with a drill press...)

View attachment 3395119

Maybe someone can send you a template or actual pickguard that matches your bass to help you position the pickup. You're going to need a new pickguard anyway.

I think the newer pickup has changed a little bit.
As you can see in the picture, my bass is VERY similar to yours, but is slightly different.
 
View attachment 3395176

I think the newer pickup has changed a little bit.
As you can see in the picture, my bass is VERY similar to yours, but is slightly different.

Those central holes look very wrong to me, I'd guess yours isn't drilled for a P pickup at all.
Best thing to do would be to make yourself a pickguard template from the tracing i sent you and mark it up from there.
 
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As mentioned above, I used the pickguard as the template for locating the pickguard.

Once I had the pickup centered in the cutout, I used a spring loaded center punch to mark the holes. Carefully drilled to depth, and tapped threads right into the hardwood.(Northern ash). You can safely skip the inserts.

This put the P pickup slightly closer to the neck than a Super P location, by about 1/2” +\-.

You could locate the pickup and then fab a pickguard, but that seems more difficult.

I think I’d make a temporary pickguard from the tracing, and use it for a template to locate the pup, and for whoever makes your pickguard. I’d probably just order some pickguard material and have a go at making my own pickguard.
 
Those central holes look very wrong to me, I'd guess yours isn't drilled for a P pickup at all.
Best thing to do would be to make yourself a pickguard template from the tracing i sent you and mark it up from there.

That is probably what I am going to try. Unfortunately the tracing of your pickguard is quite a bit different from the old pickguard, and fits on to my bass quite a bit differently, so it sort of gets me in the ballpark, but is pretty far off from the pre-routed cutouts on the bass.
 
You could take the opportunity to really find the sweet spot with the pick up and see whether you like it in the traditional configuration or reversed. ( treble side closer to the neck). Maybe rig up some rubber bands or soft foam to hold things while you experiment. (Velcro!?)

Once you have the sweet sound, drill and mount the pickup. At that point you are good to play it.

Then fab your pickguard to fit. Paper and cardboard and tape to get a good template. Then refine and make an exact template out of something stiff enough to use with a pattern routing bit. Or send it out to have it fabricated.

So many great materials to pick from!
 
can one of you guys please help me with the tonal differences between a D-Bird and a Combustion (in passive mode)? Their pickup switching configurations seem the same, are the locations different? Can I get passive combustion sounds out of a D-Bird, and vice-a-versa? I scoured the internet for an A/B, but there's nothing.
Thanks in advance!
 
can one of you guys please help me with the tonal differences between a D-Bird and a Combustion (in passive mode)? Their pickup switching configurations seem the same, are the locations different? Can I get passive combustion sounds out of a D-Bird, and vice-a-versa? I scoured the internet for an A/B, but there's nothing.
Thanks in advance!

I'm curious about this as well, but I'll have an answer on Sunday, LOL! If no one chimes in before then, I'll give you my thoughts...

Source: I sold both of my Stingray Specials and a few other things, put some cash in my savings to pay for my upcoming ABZs, and bought an NG-3(got it today) and a D-Bird Standard(should be here by Friday). Got a gig on Saturday, so I'll have a report on Sunday.

My initial thought is getting a D-Bird to make similar sounds like an NG-3(Combustion) should be possible, since the pickup options are the same. The difference might be in the D-Bird's passive tone control, which the NG-3 doesn't seem to have when the preamp is bypassed.

I'm just guessing right now...
 
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Shoutout to @BurningSkies and others here who inspired me to walk the Dingwall, Greenboy, Jule path. I completed my new pair of fEARful 15/6/1's over the weekend and had them at band practice last night.
You can see my blue NG-2 on the right there ;)

Fantastic looking setup! Those bright green & black GB's are excellent!
 
I'm curious about this as well, but I'll have an answer on Sunday, LOL! If no one chimes in before then, I'll give you my thoughts...

Source: I sold both of my Stingray Specials and a few other things, put some cash in my savings to pay for my upcoming ABZs, and bought an NG-3(got it today) and a D-Bird Standard(should be here by Friday). Got a gig on Saturday, so I'll have a report on Sunday.

My initial thought is getting a D-Bird to make similar sounds like an NG-3(Combustion) should be possible, since the pickup options are the same. The difference might be in the D-Bird's passive tone control, which the NG-3 doesn't seem to have when the preamp is bypassed.

I'm just guessing right now...
Pics when you got em all please!
 
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can one of you guys please help me with the tonal differences between a D-Bird and a Combustion (in passive mode)? Their pickup switching configurations seem the same, are the locations different? Can I get passive combustion sounds out of a D-Bird, and vice-a-versa? I scoured the internet for an A/B, but there's nothing.
Thanks in advance!

Probably close but not exactly. The Standard Combustion 3x would have the traditional 3x switch v. the D-Bird switch. Although the NG3 will have the D-Bird switch.

The Standard Combustion has an EMG 3 band preamp, the NG's have the DarkGlass, the D-Birds have a traditional passive roll off.