Noted. I'll take care of it now. (EDIT: I just subscribed to be a supporting member.)
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
Would you mind providing a link to where you bought the pickguard material, please?
I’ve been wanting to play around with my Super P, and I will probably soon have time on my hands.
Cleaning out the shop is always first on my list of things to do when I get laid off. I built a bitchin router table a few years back.
I’ve been wanting to play around with my Super P, and I will probably soon have time on my hands.
Cleaning out the shop is always first on my list of things to do when I get laid off. I built a bitchin router table a few years back.
For the few pickguards I’ve made I found a table router and 45 degree bit to be the best setup. Ended up with just a little sanding to do to make everything look nice.
Pickguard Sheet Stock - Blanks - Acoustic & Electric
The link above is to Axetreme Creations. They have limited colors of the Abalone. I got the black abalone but was very tempted to get the Blue/Green Abalone. Get the 2 ply and not the stick on. Although, I’d be curious what the stick would look like on the original NG guard.
I made a make-shift router table. The router bit I used was 45 and worked fairly well except when doing the ends of the pickguard with sharp curves, like near the horn. I experienced some “kick-back” that damaged the edges.
Any advice?
I assume you are using a template? Or are you trying to make the shape by hand?
Regardless, the number one most important factor is a high-quality router bit, not a cheap piece of crap. It makes a world of difference. Having a good quality router that is very stable and spins perfectly without any wobble is also important for nice clean cuts, but not as important as the bit itself. I have one extra 12" x 18" table if you want it for $20 plus actual shipping. The legs come off, so shipping shouldn't be too bad. PM me if interested.
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Ah - I thought I recognized the blank from the appearance of the edge. I picked up a blue abalone blank from Axetreme and hired JohnK10 to craft it:
Yes, I made template on a laser engraver so the template is perfect. The router bit was probably the culprit. I’ll PM you.
Everything xnewyorka says above essentially, use a template and a good quality bit. Try and make sure you have everything as stable as possible so minimal wobble on your router and make sure the guard is stuck reasonably well to the template.
yeah, that’s the same stuff! I believe that is the Blue/Green Abalone. I nearly did that color instead of the black. Blue / Green Abalone 2-ply Pickguard Sheet Stock
Also, I extended the pickguard to the back of the bridge pickup so that it gently curves with it. I did away with the sharp flat edge that is normally there on the original NG guard. Looks nicer IMO.
When switching out a preamp on a Dingwall with a 4 way rotary, what do you do about the pickup selector? I haven't looked at a wiring diagram but can you leave it and install a different preamp around it?
I'm a perpetual tinkerer and was going to try a traditional 3 band while holed up vs the darkglass but that one had me a little stumped.
I'm a perpetual tinkerer and was going to try a traditional 3 band while holed up vs the darkglass but that one had me a little stumped.
Right, the preamp just has a single input (signal and ground), and the same two wires for output. All other wires go to the tone controls. The pickup selector or blend knob or whatever the instrument has chooses what signal goes into the preamp.
I tried out an online jam earlier today (buggy as hell!), but I was so impressed with how my Combustion sounded through some good headphones! I put some Payson reduced core nickels on a week or two before the UK went on lockdown and I really like the extra bit of tension compared to the Dingwall nickels that came stock. . I was just going through my usual pedalboard but with an amp (SVT) and cab SIM (412) on my Zoom B3n then into my audio interface. I've never has a bass that just sounded so great so easily before!
I just picked up a Sklar Sig. My first impression besides the usual, impeccable fit, finish, playability etc. is the amazing electronics. Everyone of the 4 positions on the rotary switch is usable flat. The tone controls are so responsive!! I've had a Glock pre in a Roscoe, and it was not nearly as responsive as this one. The thing that really killed me is the passive tone. Every, and I mean EVERY active bass I've owned had a drop off in gain once the pre was disengaged. Not this one, the volume remains extremely close. Also, the passive tone is so good, it's probably the best I've ever heard in an active bass. I know that the new Sklars are available as a three pickup version, but honestly I can't see needing more tonal options than I already have. Now comes the hard part in trying to decide what leaves the stable. I don't collect any longer so some things will have to go.......decisions.....
