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Dingwall Owners Club

Pretty sure that is older than 1 year, just because of the walnut neck. If it was current, that is so tempting at that price, but then I tell myself, "That is exactly what I am playing now, but my pickups are square ended."

View attachment 4673667

Yeah that's my misery over having a D Roc but wanting another D Bird because of the shape

So dumb but this video gave me gas for a Canadian D roc ….

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lol maybe we should talk trades
 
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Just plugged in my EBMM SR4hh after playing the DROC and for the first time ever felt like the SR was sounding thin?! I think the DROC is on a mission to be the only 4 string in the house.
Dingwalls are kind of territorial...

The only other basses I have now are my ABG and a Hofner Club.

My ABZ chews up and spits out any other 5-string that tries to enter the house.
 
Just plugged in my EBMM SR4hh after playing the DROC and for the first time ever felt like the SR was sounding thin?!
Speaking of not sounding thin, I just picked up Dave Barber's Compact version of the Linden EQ.

I'll never wonder about getting a P-Tone pickup again.

I have been running my Diamond compressor as an always-on pedal at one venue lately, compression almost off and the tilt tone control rolled back slightly. In that room and situation, I felt like I needed a little something that my AudioKinesis cab and MB Fusion weren't delivering.

Running the Linden in front of the head, or as a preamp replacement via the effects return, does something to the B string that I really, really like. It's perfectly clean and smooth, yet thicker and more punchy- how I've always imagined a REDDI would sound.

This was with the toggle switches on position one and the EQ flat.

It's more obvious than the Diamond, and yet it doesn't mess with my dynamics. Rounder, warmer, yet still very tight and controlled.

Anyone who has used a G-K MB800 or Fusion knows that they have an almost bottomless low end when you push the bass, but this isn't the same thing, it's much more subtle. I tried to duplicate the effect of the Linden via the low mid and bass controls on the G-K, but it just wasn't there.

I don't normally gush about pedals until they survive the honeymoon period, but I think this one's a keeper.
 
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I'm set up for F# standard again.

I ordered a set from Curt Mangan for drop G. It works really well in F# standard.

I picked the gauges with my best guess.

The only issue is the 145 was really tight getting into the bridge. There's no taper on that end.
IMG20220429131401.jpg
 
Question for you fine Dingwallers who have a P-tone pickup. I have a very new 4-string Super-J with two P-tones that each have series/parallel switches (and I owe y'all a demo soon). Of course, I am digging the thing immensely! But, here's what I've noticed. When the switch is in parallel (down) position, it seems like the top two strings (G, D) have noticeably less volume than the bottom two (A, E). My spouse isn't really hearing it at home, there is still some output from those top two strings, but it seems to me they just disappear at higher volumes. It happens on both pickups, but it's much more noticeable on the neck pickup.

Is this just a trick of the ears? Could I have a loose wire? I don't notice any difference across the strings when they're in series mode. I'm not sure which setting (parallel/series) corresponds to the way P-tones are hard-wired when there's not a switch. I'm running it by this group first, haven't contacted my dealer or Dingwall tech. Any ideas?

Pics, because it's against the rules to say "new Super-J" and not have pics featuring a ridiculously happy grin...
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4j__ASBsVChyp1b96Vgg_8OSj1yFkdtvxosW9TPfiT3BTd9K7_4HensrYnoXhQfQcSsnEA7bntdps1zfFQA4zdxphjI2P1XW-G9x_ODz26oD17G7EHl2sU7bvyYjwHrDvLf6Dx1yWyBQs52_pyOJScWcbZgXagQ6ZjUyOsFvX8yJLqx9feSNXLjMp5ysJOJdTgyd1OY_NjKqaNa5XFY9m3MxbQWGRq4vkxzbnhXBtY0K388A9185DgmSMJemhatpvx63DmhF2IrSFcycC9Y1R4_adELkkCWMAEy_Ud8gEr4YUgUeKJ8Sd3qVVXQZHXtIg3D3b97ICOUc3-5ryeSb_HRJBuN80Uxak2dnmhwwQZboDm0AR79Mw4fUtfHu3f0RWN0TZ26Gso8wlkjagCxGq6KOmM2iAn0Ucwr86auWrNOjZCumdBPt0sWmuAL5HcjD4tJPbql3raNq8RVTUO1JssUMBls7itC-gzdtr6VjR1lvznRe4JSpp4IFqZLP-Afgr6ztIKCmh-YpvmqZI8pUadwiLP8V3i60GMhyvStfl7AgbM10U7Eldpqxv78m0c0-2FlwK0rtaXM1VyDmLK0xRyxnbkxypRQTcLmfT-crLNoyxKKutriWHpYtzxIj8NeG0OsSL2Ku7CnKbc7MDhivzZmxwPRJyexd-6mRoY2OdmdE2chuI2q5M2F9AzfjDbRx7zEqjJgmPow4OekDyypk6kloa6jyJxD6gf_KMmLDU0fAVmm5L9VBKu3T6lPzAGc=w803-h973-no

upload_2022-4-29_14-16-52.png
 
Question for you fine Dingwallers who have a P-tone pickup. I have a very new 4-string Super-J with two P-tones that each have series/parallel switches (and I owe y'all a demo soon). Of course, I am digging the thing immensely! But, here's what I've noticed. When the switch is in parallel (down) position, it seems like the top two strings (G, D) have noticeably less volume than the bottom two (A, E). My spouse isn't really hearing it at home, there is still some output from those top two strings, but it seems to me they just disappear at higher volumes. It happens on both pickups, but it's much more noticeable on the neck pickup.

Is this just a trick of the ears? Could I have a loose wire? I don't notice any difference across the strings when they're in series mode. I'm not sure which setting (parallel/series) corresponds to the way P-tones are hard-wired when there's not a switch. I'm running it by this group first, haven't contacted my dealer or Dingwall tech. Any ideas?

Pics, because it's against the rules to say "new Super-J" and not have pics featuring a ridiculously happy grin...
b_GDl0Wa3QtU7_qD-AN_4sfGXh0QzR_3zkfAC4m7VLiwuVNNtSOa30SvFg9puZDGozL6XHfWbgOjXSz7bF4_pzNWSuGrDC7-52JBYLAYyejukpd2kE8Kz4Hr116iQe-w6CIzRIK8FHCAUzccpjWO8Ots-W0qsaV8deMyehcZ06hR969P2evYRolqkRLlLsJjU8FFqfThHp0-vP8DGgJKvCGOlteL7_fpGvdyw7S5bQoffK4yrdFyC9WgdVsLs0hmX_JAPLQv3zzTSrUtRYSMwmYrGUG7_zdph3gOtVyI4oBs3RVvotppKId0LMXn3MIHsvYA6ic1mBiTCQYgcxIDETedqYZh0Qv_VlJKQQxPz9tlh1i_PQYuMKqfXOLkjVWOOypL6yxL8i7D0hKsI-HTs2oIpVkVbQP9XtV0pQRxpOem8pIVO1vIIHXn2KgEboDaRMyx-pw-MuaAh73SlD05p1tkAQaElOkurMOQhgEc3xhNqBGNpk6yOcXkKsJn6KHu_mcPNOrTt-rcxmcJPKbENTqqVW19S3qj7bx5SQ2i05gLfQu33iujoQkCaA2d5g8IwR-_Wn47YShfZafPVh_ov91d5kc5ENICYFRqh_mzZgAyrkFMkCMJoA6Tgbjwo6ajLlwTuTPcmXnJm2wKcb0ZapHAj_Q-HSLYYeovCU5YtJZ4cRq93Up1Xu_q5IQreeDAksBpUjDGGQmNx3kpe0gRXASn7Ar2kjxxoHM6dkiEdkKCIoGiDao8CTkbiNH6KXE=w925-h973-no

4j__ASBsVChyp1b96Vgg_8OSj1yFkdtvxosW9TPfiT3BTd9K7_4HensrYnoXhQfQcSsnEA7bntdps1zfFQA4zdxphjI2P1XW-G9x_ODz26oD17G7EHl2sU7bvyYjwHrDvLf6Dx1yWyBQs52_pyOJScWcbZgXagQ6ZjUyOsFvX8yJLqx9feSNXLjMp5ysJOJdTgyd1OY_NjKqaNa5XFY9m3MxbQWGRq4vkxzbnhXBtY0K388A9185DgmSMJemhatpvx63DmhF2IrSFcycC9Y1R4_adELkkCWMAEy_Ud8gEr4YUgUeKJ8Sd3qVVXQZHXtIg3D3b97ICOUc3-5ryeSb_HRJBuN80Uxak2dnmhwwQZboDm0AR79Mw4fUtfHu3f0RWN0TZ26Gso8wlkjagCxGq6KOmM2iAn0Ucwr86auWrNOjZCumdBPt0sWmuAL5HcjD4tJPbql3raNq8RVTUO1JssUMBls7itC-gzdtr6VjR1lvznRe4JSpp4IFqZLP-Afgr6ztIKCmh-YpvmqZI8pUadwiLP8V3i60GMhyvStfl7AgbM10U7Eldpqxv78m0c0-2FlwK0rtaXM1VyDmLK0xRyxnbkxypRQTcLmfT-crLNoyxKKutriWHpYtzxIj8NeG0OsSL2Ku7CnKbc7MDhivzZmxwPRJyexd-6mRoY2OdmdE2chuI2q5M2F9AzfjDbRx7zEqjJgmPow4OekDyypk6kloa6jyJxD6gf_KMmLDU0fAVmm5L9VBKu3T6lPzAGc=w803-h973-no

View attachment 4675216
My opinion, the switches are pointless on the P and P tone. I’ve experience significant volume loss and “scooping” The P stays home in series in my World.
Other basses with FD3 etc. offer a nice scooped, clean jazz tone in parallel.
Sure the Ps can sound nice parallel but you’ve got to eq specifically for that. Seems counterintuitive to ask this from P pups especially a double P ala Fender “blacktop”
 
That’s kind of weird, putting series/parallel switches on P tones.

Like Nate said, P tones are series pickups to begin.

it would be worth taking a look to see just how these pickups and switches are wired. maybe take the pickups out and see how they are labeled.

I’d probably bypass the switches and make sure both pups are operating as they should in series. Then you’ll have the standard four position switch: neck, both in series, both in parallel, and bridge. Plus two nifty “producer switches”.

I always end up putting ptones in my neck position. I’ve always wanted to try one in the bridge.

Great looking bass!
 
My opinion, the switches are pointless on the P and P tone. I’ve experience significant volume loss and “scooping” The P stays home in series in my World.
Other basses with FD3 etc. offer a nice scooped, clean jazz tone in parallel.
Sure the Ps can sound nice parallel but you’ve got to eq specifically for that. Seems counterintuitive to ask this from P pups especially a double P ala Fender “blacktop”

Hmmm...

wondering what a 3x Dingwall would sound with a p-tone at the neck and some FD3's in the middle/bridge position.

Hmmm....
 
My opinion, the switches are pointless on the P and P tone.

That’s kind of weird, putting series/parallel switches on P tones.

Thanks for the info! My thinking was nothing more complicated than "Huh... $135 to add on switches... sure, let's try it!" Somehow, deep into the custom order process, it seemed reasonable. :laugh: Series setting on the switches works great and I'm happy keeping them both there, and using the 4-way pickup selector from there.

I also like the parallel switch sound, it's kinda twangier, it's just weird that it drops the volume so much more on the two high strings than the two low strings. Opening it up to look is a good idea, I can also mess with pickup height, etc. :bassist:
 
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