• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Dingwall Owners Club

Not really, IME. I did some tests on the B1K and it’s very flat except for a subtle roll off way up top that’s pretty musical. You can find those tests here: https://www.talkbass.com/threads/club-trickfish.1348946/page-27#post-24752522


I’m not an EMG expert but I do own two basses with EMGs (JVX and JAX respectively), and neither of them have as much content in the low mids as the FDVs. There are many other variables, so it’s not an apples to apples comparison, so take it with a grain of salt.

There’s a record producer in Vegas that calls me to lay down bass tracks a lot. Since getting my SJ he always, and I do mean ALWAYS, requests that I track the same way. Fresh rounds, middle pickup solo, EQ flat, and DI’d through a 1073. For that I run a Heritage Audio TT-73 straight to a MOTU 16A, which is just a bank of converters with no additional preamps. The result of that signal chain is always more abundant in the ~300hz range than any other bass I own. Cutting tracks for him again the night after making the switch and I immediately noticed less going on in the 300hz range, more down lower in the 80-100hz range, and a flatter presentation from about 800hz and up. Both the FDV and SF2 options present a dip centered around 500hz.


Thanks for the TF link. I’ll explore it soon.

I should not have assumed that your EMG jazz pups would have a relevant low mid presence as the humbuckers(DCs) do of course. I didn’t really think about that in comparison to the FDVs. You now have me really curious if you were to do these tests with the FD3s as well.


the comparison of the SF2s vs FDV makes perfect sense.
 
My Z is passive with coil switches. I typically run it SPS.

I also recall seeing that's how the non switch models are set up. Probably somewhere in this thread.

Basses with D-roc switches normally come with pickups wired:
  • Bridge series
  • Middle series
  • Neck parallel

Basses with 3x switches normally come with pickups wired:
  • Bridge series
  • Middle parallel
  • Neck series
 
The recent s/p switch talk has had me messing with options on my Z. I had been using M+B, both in series since I got the bass. Some of you had mentioned how great the middle was soloed, so I tried middle series/bridge parallel since middle solo is not one of my switch options. Whoa.. its thick, really big sounding - a few pickup height adjustments and i found the sweet spot.

:hyper: :bassist:

Its like the standard middle parallel/bridge series (pos 2 on a 3X), but with more beef and depth. Think of the NG tone in the same pup position but with some real "muscle" behind it. Thunderous. Gonna try it at rehearsal tonight, i think the guys will be stoked.
 
If I had a 4 string set I’d loan em to ya
The clear and obvious solution here is for you to break out the hacksaw and just chop the B string pole off. You can just superglue it back together when I return. I'm pretty sure that will work flawlessly :D

Unfortunately, you‘ve shown your hand a little and now we all know you really only gonna need a middle pickup anyway ;)
Not so! That's just the case with this one guy who frequently hires me for sessions. On live dates I'm almost always bridge (series) and middle (parallel) in parallel, except when I have to take this obnoxious slap solo that the band leader wants me to do every night and I switch it to bridge (series) and neck (series) in parallel for a little hotter signal and more of a mid scoop. That covers three of the 48 possible rotary and S/P switch combinations available on my bass, or a full 6.25% of the possilities! :p
 
The clear and obvious solution here is for you to break out the hacksaw and just chop the B string pole off. You can just superglue it back together when I return. I'm pretty sure that will work flawlessly :D


Not so! That's just the case with this one guy who frequently hires me for sessions. On live dates I'm almost always bridge (series) and middle (parallel) in parallel, except when I have to take this obnoxious slap solo that the band leader wants me to do every night and I switch it to bridge (series) and neck (series) in parallel for a little hotter signal and more of a mid scoop. That covers three of the 48 possible rotary and S/P switch combinations available on my bass, or a full 6.25% of the possilities! :p


Actually, I see a way to make this work!!!

I’ll send you a six string set a drill and router. If you cut the extra meat out real carefully you can just glue it back down after, fill and repaint!! Easy peasey!!
 
NBD incoming. A good friend of mine and I just decided to do a trade. He's taking back his Dunable Thunderclapper (I got it in a previous trade) and he is sending along this customized NG3 (that he got from our mutual friend in another trade). Anyway, it started out as an NG2. It was refinished in gun metal gray, all black hardware upgrade, then a 3rd pickup, a 6 way rotary selector, and individual series/parallel switches for each pickup were all added.

IMG_6665.jpeg

IMG_6667.jpeg
 
NBD incoming. A good friend of mine and I just decided to do a trade. He's taking back his Dunable Thunderclapper (I got it in a previous trade) and he is sending along this customized NG3 (that he got from our mutual friend in another trade). Anyway, it started out as an NG2. It was refinished in gun metal gray, all black hardware upgrade, then a 3rd pickup, a 6 way rotary selector, and individual series/parallel switches for each pickup were all added.

View attachment 5258439
View attachment 5258440

Dang, every time I see one of the few NGs modded with an AB bridge I get a sudden urge to reunite with my old NG and do the same exact thing. That refinish in particular, though, is plain awesome!
 
I wrote to Dingwall but haven't heard back yet about their thoughts on a SFII/FD3/FD3 pickup set...

"I have a D-ROC Custom 5 with wenge neck/board on order through John Fox Bass and hope to tap into some of the shop wisdom regarding pickup selection. It looks like the D-ROC Custom comes standard with FDV pickups which seem to have the lowest output of the Dingwall pickups offered. Low output pickups can be an issue with my IEM setup at church. The bridge pickup also naturally sounds thinner because of its position and the SFII pickup would seem to be a good way to add some bottom and fatten this up a bit. The FD3 has a bit hotter output than the FDV, a little more dynamic response, and a better volume match with the SFII. This is making me lean toward a SFII for the bridge and FD3 for neck and mid pickups. Does this sound like a compatible set which would work well together?

Also, with the quad tone selector shown below, does Position 2 have the bridge and middle in series or parallel?"
Bass_Dingwall-D-Roc-Rotary-Pickup-Selector-768x470.jpg
 
I wrote to Dingwall but haven't heard back yet about their thoughts on a SFII/FD3/FD3 pickup set...

"I have a D-ROC Custom 5 with wenge neck/board on order through John Fox Bass and hope to tap into some of the shop wisdom regarding pickup selection. It looks like the D-ROC Custom comes standard with FDV pickups which seem to have the lowest output of the Dingwall pickups offered. Low output pickups can be an issue with my IEM setup at church. The bridge pickup also naturally sounds thinner because of its position and the SFII pickup would seem to be a good way to add some bottom and fatten this up a bit. The FD3 has a bit hotter output than the FDV, a little more dynamic response, and a better volume match with the SFII. This is making me lean toward a SFII for the bridge and FD3 for neck and mid pickups. Does this sound like a compatible set which would work well together?

Also, with the quad tone selector shown below, does Position 2 have the bridge and middle in series or parallel?"
Bass_Dingwall-D-Roc-Rotary-Pickup-Selector-768x470.jpg

I hate to complicate things more but have you considered a p-tone? I currently have one in the bridge position on my super P with the regular P in the neck, and it’s an absolutely stellar combo.
 
I wrote to Dingwall but haven't heard back yet about their thoughts on a SFII/FD3/FD3 pickup set...

"I have a D-ROC Custom 5 with wenge neck/board on order through John Fox Bass and hope to tap into some of the shop wisdom regarding pickup selection. It looks like the D-ROC Custom comes standard with FDV pickups which seem to have the lowest output of the Dingwall pickups offered. Low output pickups can be an issue with my IEM setup at church. The bridge pickup also naturally sounds thinner because of its position and the SFII pickup would seem to be a good way to add some bottom and fatten this up a bit. The FD3 has a bit hotter output than the FDV, a little more dynamic response, and a better volume match with the SFII. This is making me lean toward a SFII for the bridge and FD3 for neck and mid pickups. Does this sound like a compatible set which would work well together?

Also, with the quad tone selector shown below, does Position 2 have the bridge and middle in series or parallel?"
Bass_Dingwall-D-Roc-Rotary-Pickup-Selector-768x470.jpg

Position 2 on D-Roc switches is bridge/middle in parallel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5StringPocket
I hate to complicate things more but have you considered a p-tone? I currently have one in the bridge position on my super P with the regular P in the neck, and it’s an absolutely stellar combo.

The P-Tone 5 string doesn't work with the D-Roc switch in a 3 pickup config. Somehow the A string output is much lower than the other strings. Confirmed with Dingwall, it's on this thread a couple of dozen pages back.
The only workaround was to disconnect the neck pickup, and then you lose the all pickups position. You can also custom order a 6-way switch but that is hard to fit in the skinny DRoc body. Or maybe install an NG3 switch.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AB Nate