Oh sorry, that I don’t know. I misread your post. My bad.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
D-Roc selector: bridge and middle pickups are wired series, neck is parallel:
3x selector: bridge and neck are series, middle is parallel:
Not sure what happens in 2 pickups Z2s and Sklars :/
I think the idea is that regardless of the switch:
- for "solo pickup" selector positions, the pickups are wired in series
- for selector positions where two pickups are combined is parallel (eg. BN parallel on 3x switch), both pickups are wired in series
- for selector positions where two pickups are combined is series (eg. BM series on D-Roc switch), one of the pickups is wired in parallel
(and then there is the "all on D-roc exception but logic still stands)
In my mind that kind of matches the most useful combinations - having used 6 way switches and series/parallel toggles for a couple of years, and unless I am looking for a very specific tone, I almost always leave the toggles in series mode unless I use 2 pickups together in series (which can be a bit too much). And it avoids overly thin sounding positions with lots of volume drop.
Basically (on my latest switch) :
Bs Ns in Parallel
Bs Mp in Series (that's he Dingwall version) or vice versa
Bs Ms is Parallel
Solo -- Bs or Ms or Ns
...and a conclusion that one push-pull to toggle the middle pickup would be enough for me 95% of the time. YMMV
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I should have mentioned the combinations for the 4 way switches:
D-Roc selector: bridge and middle pickups are wired series, neck is parallel:
Bs Solo
BsMs Parallel
Ms Solo
BsMs Parallel in Series with Np
3x selector: bridge and neck are series, middle is parallel:
Bs Solo
BsMp Series
BsNs Parallel
Ns Solo
D-Roc selector: bridge and middle pickups are wired series, neck is parallel:
Bs Solo
BsMs Parallel
Ms Solo
BsMs Parallel in Series with Np
3x selector: bridge and neck are series, middle is parallel:
Bs Solo
BsMp Series
BsNs Parallel
Ns Solo
Excellent, this is exactly what Im looking for, thanks!
Im currently using a custom 4-way switch in my C5 with ALL three pickups (FD3n/FD3n/P-Tone) wired series internally.
The switch goes like this:
1. Bridge/Middle Parallel
2. Middle Solo
3. Bridge/Neck Parallel
4. Neck Solo
So your assessment jives with what I am currently doing and have experienced. I'm considering the same 4-way switch for my Z that will be built soon with SF2/SF2/P-Tone.
Hey, do you have a weight for that one?
Now that I’m back home and slightly more calm, I’m going to finally put all of the data I collected on a Google drive and link it in the thread tomorrow.
And speaking of 6-way switches and series/parallel toggles, here's a demo video from John Fox Bass - I think the first one running through custom switches and toggles.
The switch is actually mine and on its way to me across the atlantic. Will report on the switch and its container in due time
...and the switch was made by @maurilio https://www.talkbass.com/members/maurilio.32457/
I was warned and this could be the heaviest fiver on your list so far
Will remind me of an early GL L2000 with 'hog body that was over 11lbs.
You can add a Super J5 - northern ash & alder body, roasted ash neck, wenge fretboard @ 10lbs 0.7oz (4.6 kg)
I was warned and this could be the heaviest fiver on your list so far
Will remind me of an early GL L2000 with 'hog body that was over 11lbs.
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...and the switch was made by @maurilio https://www.talkbass.com/members/maurilio.32457/
You can add a Super J5 - northern ash & alder body, roasted ash neck, wenge fretboard @ 10lbs 0.7oz (4.6 kg)
I was warned and this could be the heaviest fiver on your list so far
Will remind me of an early GL L2000 with 'hog body that was over 11lbs.
Just take out the batteries, run passive, and you will be under 10!
Funny I had the same difficulty deciding between a matching or wood headstock on my Z order. I chose Ari gold for the color, and like you, wenge for the neck (macassar ebony for the fb). I love the look of wenge, which made the choice difficult. I ultimately decided on a matching headstock. I think having the body and headstock match gives the bass a symmetry and makes the body color stand out more. What did you decide?
I ended up going with the matching headstock. Now the waiting game begins...
Nice demo of the John Taylor Model - definitely sounds to be in active mode with the Neve preamp.
Maybe someone that has played both can help. P or J? I’m thinking J. Here’s why - I play mostly the P or J positions on my Afterburners and the J neck sounds more like a P than the PJ in parallel sounds like a J. So I could go with a 2 pickup J and be happy. I rarely use the MM setting.
By a long way. It’s even heavier than 13 out of the 17 6-strings!...and the switch was made by @maurilio https://www.talkbass.com/members/maurilio.32457/
You can add a Super J5 - northern ash & alder body, roasted ash neck, wenge fretboard @ 10lbs 0.7oz (4.6 kg)
I was warned and this could be the heaviest fiver on your list so far
Will remind me of an early GL L2000 with 'hog body that was over 11lbs.
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Should be fixed now, I appreciate folks' understanding, I've never been on the document owner's end of a google drive link
Dingwall Weights Spreadsheets
Dingwall Weights Spreadsheets
