Dingwall Owners Club

[Nayatteu]

hello

I'm looking to buy a dingwall super jazz.

Initially I was going to get a 4-string model, but everyone around me says I should get a 5-string dingwall bass, as they say that the raison d'être of multi-scale is the 5-string.

I personally prefer 5 strings for fingerpicking and 4 strings for slap, and I like the look of the 4-string on the stock model, but what do you guys think?

 

[AB Nate]

hello

I'm looking to buy a dingwall super jazz.

Initially I was going to get a 4-string model, but everyone around me says I should get a 5-string dingwall bass, as they say that the raison d'être of multi-scale is the 5-string.

I personally prefer 5 strings for fingerpicking and 4 strings for slap, and I like the look of the 4-string on the stock model, but what do you guys think?

What ever works, “for you”

sorry guys. Had to

 

[IvanBassist]

hello

I'm looking to buy a dingwall super jazz.

Initially I was going to get a 4-string model, but everyone around me says I should get a 5-string dingwall bass, as they say that the raison d'être of multi-scale is the 5-string.

I personally prefer 5 strings for fingerpicking and 4 strings for slap, and I like the look of the 4-string on the stock model, but what do you guys think?

I thought about the same when spec’ing my SJ. Ultimately, i decided to go for the 4 string version, because I pretty much never really need any note below E and you still get the benefits of the multi-scale design on a 4 string version. The String tension and tone are more even across the bass.

Another aspect to keep in mind is the increase of weight and balance of the instrument due to the extra mass, extra cost for strings, and last but not least, the string spacing.
The 4 string J profile feels narrower than a normal fender J neck. The string spacing feels slightly larger for the 5 string versions.

Now I have two 4 string Supers. A SP and a SJ, but i’ll order a 5 string import SP1 to cover all bases (pun intended)

 

[Selta]

hello

I'm looking to buy a dingwall super jazz.

Initially I was going to get a 4-string model, but everyone around me says I should get a 5-string dingwall bass, as they say that the raison d'être of multi-scale is the 5-string.

I personally prefer 5 strings for fingerpicking and 4 strings for slap, and I like the look of the 4-string on the stock model, but what do you guys think?

One of each once the import models land?

In all seriousness -- what will you pick up and play more? I do agree, somewhat, that 5 string (or low tuned 4s) tend to showcase the benefit of multiscale in very real and clear ways, but the benefits of it extend to 4 string just as well. It may just not be as pronounced then.

 

[AB Nate]

Hi. Pretty sure I bought the bass you are talking about. It looks even better in person and the neck is as fast as I have ever played, of any brand. This is my 4th Dingwall, own 3. I started with a Dingwall D-roc 5 in black matte about 15 months ago but in the end 5s just aren't for me. I sold it to purchase this Combustion. Have 2 other D-roc 4s.

The fanned frets are not an issue for me and I don't have the world's biggest hands. I come to Dingwalls after playing Rics almost exclusively for the last 40 years. Although I have given lots of other brands test drives. I now find the Rics almost unplayable after having got used to the Dingwalls. In fact, I am trying to sell an Autumnglo Ric in order purchase a D-roc 4 in black matte. (or take on partial trade.)

You won't be disappointed in purchasing a Dingwall. No, I don't have the patience, or bank account to purchase a Canadian made one, but the offshore ones have been great for me.

Chiming in on the fanned vs parallel fret discussion.

I played dingwall almost exclusively for 5-6 yrs. Then bought and sold a lot of other basses…. Dingwalls and parallel fret basses alike.

Some of them were dynamite and I just couldn’t afford to keep them all but what I have come around to is I don’t really have a lot of issue jumping back and forth these days.

I still have a long scale dingwall preference above all else but having appreciation for some of the other basses and desiring to play them too, I get enjoyment from the few(Spectors) I have kept for different reasons.

 

[davio]

Some of them were dynamite and I just couldn’t afford to keep them all but what I have come around to is I don’t really have a lot of issue jumping back and forth these days.

Right there with you! My trusty AB1 5 is still my go to but my P 5 & Stingray 4 get lots of use these days as well. Absolutely no issues going back and forth.

 

[Nayatteu]

I thought about the same when spec’ing my SJ. Ultimately, i decided to go for the 4 string version, because I pretty much never really need any note below E and you still get the benefits of the multi-scale design on a 4 string version. The String tension and tone are more even across the bass.

Another aspect to keep in mind is the increase of weight and balance of the instrument due to the extra mass, extra cost for strings, and last but not least, the string spacing.
The 4 string J profile feels narrower than a normal fender J neck. The string spacing feels slightly larger for the 5 string versions.

Now I have two 4 string Supers. A SP and a SJ, but i’ll order a 5 string import SP1 to cover all bases (pun intended)

Thank you for your response.

I've watched your review video over 100 times.
It really helped me a lot.

After listening to your advice, I thought about it and came to the conclusion that I rarely play 5-string notes.
So I decided to buy a 4-string.

 

[IvanBassist]

Thank you for your response.

I've watched your review video over 100 times.
It really helped me a lot.

After listening to your advice, I thought about it and came to the conclusion that I rarely play 5-string notes.
So I decided to buy a 4-string.

Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions

Glad to hear the videos are helpful!

 

[Nayatteu]

Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions

Glad to hear the videos are helpful!

Could I ask you a question?

Is it possible to use regular scale strings for super J?
Or should I use dingwall medium scale strings?

I usually use DR strings, TI jazz rounds, and pyramid strings.

 

[IvanBassist]

Could I ask you a question?

Is it possible to use regular scale strings for super J?
Or should I use dingwall medium scale strings?

I usually use DR strings, TI jazz rounds, and pyramid strings.

They do fit, but the tension might feel off depending on the brand, because of the different scales lengths. I’ve used DR Pure Blues in the past, but always go back to Dingwall Nickel.

I know some other people have TI flats on their Super P and they are pretty happy with them.

 

[Callum Gibson]

You certain? Most models don't have it listed but the Supers say "Vintage small size 18% hard nickel silver fretwire" whatever that means in practical terms.

Not certain and I can find no reference. I thought it was in an interview, but all I can find is one where he says it's "soft material". Pretty sure they are banjo frets anyway (apart from the Sklar which is mandolin). Maybe I was thinking of the strings or another brand.

 

[Akami]

...everyone around me says I should get a 5-string dingwall bass, as they say that the raison d'être of multi-scale is the 5-string.

Sounds like they're overlooking all the other benefits of a multi-scale bass, and there seems to be no shortage of 4 string Dingwall owners here in the forum.

Not that it matters much, but when I eventually get a Dingwall it'll be a 4 string Super.

 

[Akami]

...what I was going to but decide not to post.

Probably close to what a lot of the rest of us were thinking. Struck me pretty much like going to Lamborghini rally and having someone show up in a Tesla truck.

 

[MultiScaleMale]

Probably close to what a lot of the rest of us were thinking. Struck me pretty much like going to Lamborghini rally and having someone show up in a Tesla truck.

I looked at the Ritter owners club and it’s dead in there, so they’re maybe bored? A lot of pictures of basses against black backgrounds, very little talk about playing them.

 

[S_Okon]

Come on guys, i know i shouldn't have posted it, and it was not intended to offend as much as it seems to have. Sorry for that.

Love Dingwalls too. Have a good one .

 

[steve_rolfeca]

Hey Dingwallers, does anyone know what materials the frets are made of on Canadian Dingwalls?

I've got an AB1 from 2015 and it feels like it might need some minor fretwork.

If you're experiencing a reduction in sustain, or other factors that couldn't be fixed with a minor action adjustment, it may be time to talk the Dingwall HQ in Saskatoon.

Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

I don't hang around this thread or drool over catalogues very much, so it's possible that Sheldon is offering stainless frets these days, but historically, they've always been standard fret wire, in a smaller size than you'll see on a typical Fender. The Sklar is unique, in that it comes with Lee's preferred ultra-small wire (mandolin frets, I believe?).

If you look at any well-played Dingwall, you'll see small scratches that cross the fret at a diagonal.

This was something that I wondered about early on, but it turns out to be a fanned-fret thing, and a natural consequence of the angle that the strings hit the frets.

At least the way I understand it, the small wire size increases the surface contact between the pads of your fingers and the fingerboard, which may explain why these basses are so easy on the hands, and don't seem to need fret replacement as often as you might expect.

I only have two basses in heavy rotation, and my 2013 ABZ-5 is my #1. Despite over a decade of heavy use, the marks on the frets don't seem to have deepened any since I first noticed them around 2014 or 15...

 

[steve_rolfeca]

Come on guys, i know i shouldn't have posted it, and it was not intended to offend as much as it seems to have. Sorry for that.

Love Dingwalls too. Have a good one .

No harm, no foul!

Don't let the heckling fool you- it's not uncommon for Dingwall owners to have other high-end basses.

BTW, I don't know if you've noticed, but the pickguard on the blue Ritter in your profile picture appears to be melting...

 

[S_Okon]

BTW, I don't know if you've noticed, but the pickguard on the blue Ritter in your profile picture appears to be melting...

That is the result from my hot playing...

 

[AB Nate]

If you're experiencing a reduction in sustain, or other factors that couldn't be fixed with a minor action adjustment, it may be time to talk the Dingwall HQ in Saskatoon.

Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

I don't hang around this thread or drool over catalogues very much, so it's possible that Sheldon is offering stainless frets these days, but historically, they've always been standard fret wire, in a smaller size than you'll see on a typical Fender. The Sklar is unique, in that it comes with Lee's preferred ultra-small wire (mandolin frets, I believe?).

If you look at any well-played Dingwall, you'll see small scratches that cross the fret at a diagonal.

This was something that I wondered about early on, but it turns out to be a fanned-fret thing, and a natural consequence of the angle that the strings hit the frets.

At least the way I understand it, the small wire size increases the surface contact between the pads of your fingers and the fingerboard, which may explain why these basses are so easy on the hands, and don't seem to need fret replacement as often as you might expect.

I only have two basses in heavy rotation, and my 2013 ABZ-5 is my #1. Despite over a decade of heavy use, the marks on the frets don't seem to have deepened any since I first noticed them around 2014 or 15...

This x2

 

[MultiScaleMale]

There was mention of Lee Sklar using banjo frets. He called them banjo frets, but Dingwall actually use mandolin frets on his basses. I’ll add a screenshot instead of a link for those of you that don’t use FB.