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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
It mentioned via the custom shop. I read that as an option on a newly built bass, but not sure.
Well they are already available in the JT models or as an option in the custom models. My thought is why would they make an announcement about a thing they've had for a while? Do people not know? Doesn't everyone spend too much time on forums finding info about their fav builders??? I did already edit my first post to ask the question, instead of announcing it as fact. 
Today is October 25th and I am dying to get my custom Z.
I really want to try a Neve before I lock in my next custom spec. I also wish there was just more written info available on it somewhere.
The neve preamp has a tone control that behaves like a traditional tone control, at least from a video where you could see it in use and hear the sweep. So, I’m going with the Neve preamp in my next build. I don’t like the passive tone control on my Glock preamp.
What don't you like about the Glock tone control in passive mode? Curious as I've recently come to find it quite useful and prefer it over using the Glock pre in active mode.
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Yeah, I'm a Glock fanboi big time, so it's a big lift to try to convince me to change from that. I haven't heard a video yet that made me go "wow" on the Neve, but, video (especially youtube) isn't a great medium for evaluating it.
The sweep of the tone change happens in the last 10% of the sweep range rather than throughout the full sweep range.
- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,446
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
I'm really intrigued by the new SP1 basses, but not much in specs from what I can find.
Right in my price range
Bass Central is taking pre-orders, but saying "**SALE PRICE MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE **".
How can they not know the price??
Right in my price range
Bass Central is taking pre-orders, but saying "**SALE PRICE MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHANGE **".
How can they not know the price??
It’s not about Bass Central not knowing the final price - it’s about Dingwall not knowing it. John Fox is likely a bigger Dingwall dealer than Bass Central, and he’s not quoting prices for the SP1, or the Canadian Fastlane model online either. Logic squarely suggests that Dingwall has not come up with numbers yet.
It’s not uncommon for sizable offshore orders to be placed nearly a year prior to delivery and a lot can change in that time.
When it comes to imported product, Dingwall has to contend with monetary exchange rates, variable material costs that the manufacturer might incur, variable offshore labor costs that the manufacturer might incur, variable overseas container-based shipping costs, and other concerns we can’t discuss on the forum. We live in a very volatile world right now. The company won’t be able to commit to a final dealer price until the instruments hit our shores. There’s a considerable amount of money involved because an order like this isn’t onesies or twosies - it’s more likely 30 to 50 pieces or more for each model and color, adding up the hundreds of units.
This isn’t Sheldon’s first rodeo when it comes to sourcing instruments from offshore builders. Beaver Felton has been selling expensive instruments successfully to an endlessly fickle clientele in awful economies for a long time - both men know what they’re doing.
If a dealer quotes a selling price of $2500 for an import bass that won’t be delivered for a significant length of time and that bass ends up having an unforeseen dealer cost of $2500, lots of issues will surface. One of them being the fact that the dealer makes no money, and realistically stands to lose money. This is an extreme example, but it could happen. It’s relatively likely to occur at lower amounts, hence BC’s hesitancy to post a price at this time.
Bass Central is in Orlando, placing them under Florida law. Florida retailers are required to honor the prices they advertise, post, or label. The store can be in a money losing proposition if this scenario mentioned above happens. The guitar market is definitely a soft buyer-advantaged market now, but nobody’s in this to give things away and lose money doing it.
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- Jul 11, 2005
- 3,113
- 1,446
- Disclosures
- Gecko Leatherworks
Can you please elaborate on this? How would I do that exactly?
I appreciate all the good insight, I'm definitely not technically savvy. I'm just a player without any technical setup knowledge unfortunately.This is one where I’d love to have the bass in hand instead of guessing via keyboard. A lot of good insight already. I’ll just wish you luck and not in the snarky way of wishing luck.
Believe me, this is one of the many times I would there was a second good luthier in my home country that I could take a bass to for a second opinion. But unfortunately not
Remove your B string from its resting position in the saddle.Can you please elaborate on this? How would I do that exactly?
I appreciate all the good insight, I'm definitely not technically savvy. I'm just a player without any technical setup knowledge unfortunately.
Believe me, this is one of the many times I would there was a second good luthier in my home country that I could take a bass to for a second opinion. But unfortunately not
Cut a small piece of paper and fold it in half, then rest it in the nut slot of the B string. This will act as a little shim to raise the string height.
Obviously you don’t want to just rock that as the solution but as a quick experiment it may answer some questions for you like is the B string nut slot too low.
If you notice any difference, Play with it by adding a layer of paper to build it up. It’s not gonna hurt anything to try, is completely reversible and will only take minutes to explore.
Here is an internet photo as example.
Can you please elaborate on this? How would I do that exactly?
I appreciate all the good insight, I'm definitely not technically savvy. I'm just a player without any technical setup knowledge unfortunately.
Believe me, this is one of the many times I would there was a second good luthier in my home country that I could take a bass to for a second opinion. But unfortunately not
I'm curious - is that .145 B tapered? A quick pic of the B string at the nut, at frets 1-5, at the bridge might help. I also wonder (and you'd likely need a shim as described for this if the slot has already been made bigger) whether a .130 gives you the same problem.
hello
I have a question about the dingwall option.
Dual density ash/alder
Which option is this?
Is it a tone block inserted in the middle of the body? Or is it a body made of half alder and half ash?
Also, I'm curious about your thoughts on the new NEVE PRE.
The tone sounds good, but I'm used to using only passives, so I don't know how to decide.
I have a question about the dingwall option.
Dual density ash/alder
Which option is this?
Is it a tone block inserted in the middle of the body? Or is it a body made of half alder and half ash?
Also, I'm curious about your thoughts on the new NEVE PRE.
The tone sounds good, but I'm used to using only passives, so I don't know how to decide.
Go to Prima Artist - Dingwall and scroll down to "Body & Neck" and there is a description. There is also a couple of photos where you can see the body is made of 2 distinct pieces of wood.
Thank you for your reply.
The exact picture is on the website, thanks to you I have understood it once and for all.
