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Dingwall Owners Club

Getting a ton of positive comments about the ABZ lately.

The sound guys can push my levels further without muddying up the mid bass, which means there's more impact when I go for a low C or D pedal note at the right time, and if I drop a tasty upper-register fill here and there, people actually get to hear it.

Our best drummer in particular, loves it.
 
Getting a ton of positive comments about the ABZ lately.

The sound guys can push my levels further without muddying up the mid bass, which means there's more impact when I go for a low C or D pedal note at the right time, and if I drop a tasty upper-register fill here and there, people actually get to hear it.

Our best drummer in particular, loves it.

Fantastic Steve! Dropping the hammer, with clarity!
 
BuffaloBob - the turnaround time for the custom Super P guard ended up being five weeks. Like an excellent doctor, John's services are in high demand, so he stays very busy. Once he got around to dealing with 'my case', it only took him three hours to hand-craft it. :cool:
 
I pulled a Billy Sheehan and drove 6 inch eye bolts in to the bass. ;).

They are either Fender or Schaller. All my basses have them so I use the same strap for every bass. It's got my g50 transmitter attached.

I have tried the push button release type and they are very dangerous in the heat of gig battle. Twice I disco'd them. These you have to pull. In addition they are grooved so they hold even if the pin didn't quite seat.

I can take a close up if you like.

I have Schallers on all of mine as well. I have quite a few straps though, so I end having to buy lots of sets for the strap end parts.
 
Interesting/ too bad you guys had problems with Dunlop locks. I use them on everything, including my double neck bass/ guitar that weighs a good 15 pounds at least. Had the strap end on the same strap for almost 8 years and have zero problems to report.
 
BuffaloBob - the turnaround time for the custom Super P guard ended up being five weeks. Like an excellent doctor, John's services are in high demand, so he stays very busy. Once he got around to dealing with 'my case', it only took him three hours to hand-craft it. :cool:

Thanks for the report Ken. I will have 2 PGs from Dingwall, so the wait will be easier. Can't wait to see the pics of the new pg!
 
Interesting/ too bad you guys had problems with Dunlop locks. I use them on everything, including my double neck bass/ guitar that weighs a good 15 pounds at least. Had the strap end on the same strap for almost 8 years and have zero problems to report.

+1 The Dunlop strap lock system has a perfect (zero failure) record with me. My strap ends and strap have been in continuous duty for about the same length of time.
 
Thanks for the report Ken. I will have 2 PGs from Dingwall, so the wait will be easier. Can't wait to see the pics of the new pg!

You're welcome. I'd forgotten who'd asked about the turnaround time and had to go back and scroll through "Part Six" to find who had inquired. It's nice and handy that Sheldon is making two guards for you. It's absolutely tortuous having a nice Dingwall sitting around in an unplayable condition. All I have to do after the new PG arrives is apply a bit of shielding tape before reassembly. I will post a pic soon after. :cool:
 
If you need a response from Barry, he is currently on the road and in a different time zone. So it could take a day or two to get your response.

As for straplocks, both are fine, however after 20 years of being a dunlop guy, I just went to Schallers. No particular reason other then I can get them at cost and I wanted a change (and my bud Sting has used Schallers for years so what the hell.)

I'm going to invest in a Ninja Turtle Green NG-2 since they don't come with dark boards right now. The green was cool as schite. I am NOT a 5 player, but this one has turned me to the dark side....
 
Well I've got a couple of questions on combustions. I have seen that most dingwalls have a 4 way pickup selector.and some combustion owners have opted to add this.I also saw two different pickup upgrades listed on the dingwall website.fd3 and a p j combo in combustion shells .I like the way the bass sounds at this point but it is a little low on the output side. The preamp is what I would call transparent.but mine is an early model and doesnt have an active passive switch either.so I dont really know what it would sound like passive.I am really digging the sound of either the front pickup full up with the rear dialed back just a 1/4 turn or vice versa. With the 4 way switch would I loose the combination of front pickup parallel rear pickup series?
 
Well I've got a couple of questions on combustions. I have seen that most dingwalls have a 4 way pickup selector.and some combustion owners have opted to add this.I also saw two different pickup upgrades listed on the dingwall website.fd3 and a p j combo in combustion shells .I like the way the bass sounds at this point but it is a little low on the output side. The preamp is what I would call transparent.but mine is an early model and doesnt have an active passive switch either.so I dont really know what it would sound like passive.I am really digging the sound of either the front pickup full up with the rear dialed back just a 1/4 turn or vice versa. With the 4 way switch would I loose the combination of front pickup parallel rear pickup series?

Okay, so there's the issue of how the pickups are wired internally and how they're wired together. These are different, completely separate, and there are no constraints on how you combine these - you can have one pickup be in parallel, the other in series, and wire them together in any combination you want.

All Dingwall soapbar pickups are humbuckers, in that they have two coils on the inside of the shell. These two coils can be wired in series or in parallel internally. The bridge pickup is hardwired to series internally, the neck pickup is hardwired to parallel internally. However, in last 4 years or so, all soapbars (I believe including FD-3A? Can't remember) can be easily rewired to be either in parallel or series internally, and it's easy to add switches too. What people usually end up doing is add a switch for neck pickup series/parallel, or sometimes just hardwire it to series which gives it more output and a much more powerful lower midrange.

But all that is completely irrelevant from how the pickups are joined together. The 4 position selector would make it so that you cannot arbitrarily blend pickups, but you would be able to switch them into series (which is the favorite setting of many), and isolated pickups would have a bit more high freq content as opposed to what you get with vol/vol.

If you like to have one pickup on full and one slightly rolled back - which I completely agree and always do on vol/vol - then you'll love the series setting that the 4 position selector will give you. On a vol/vol, when the pickups are on full, there emerges a frequency scoop that I really dislike and rolling either pickup off a bit removes that scoop while keeping the sound rich. The series setting has that quality by default, and more.

My AB-II has a series/parallel switch for the neck pickup and a 4 position selector. I keep the neck pickup in parallel unless I switch to playing the neck pickup only, in which case the boost from switching the pickup to series makes it a beast.
 
Getting a ton of positive comments about the ABZ lately.
The sound guys can push my levels further without muddying up the mid bass, which means there's more impact when I go for a low C or D pedal note at the right time, and if I drop a tasty upper-register fill here and there, people actually get to hear it.

Fantastic Steve! Dropping the hammer, with clarity!


It's got me rethinking my tentative plans to put a P-tone at the neck.

At home, I sometimes wish the neck pickup had a little more beef. But on the gig, I have some trouble hearing my cheap P-bass in my IEM's, whereas the ABZ rings out with perfect clarity with the pickup selector in the series setting.
 
finnaly got a chance to lay my hands on Dingwall

it wasn't mine (yet) but I got DAS :eek:
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the original tone knob was missing
this baby got a slim and fast neck, the playability was amazing!!
 
I must have had some 'sticky' Dunlops. A couple of times, they seemed fully engaged, only to have the pin come out of the bass. I thought they were 'locked', but not so.

I find Schallers don't leave any roome for failure. Zommie (and RedDavid) proof, indeed.
 
I must have had some 'sticky' Dunlops. A couple of times, they seemed fully engaged, only to have the pin come out of the bass. I thought they were 'locked', but not so.

I find Schallers don't leave any roome for failure. Zommie (and RedDavid) proof, indeed.

My experiences differ. After having my Schallers pop out on me fairly often (I move around a lot, and used to do so even more in my days of youthful exuberance), I switched to Dunlops and have had better luck. Not to say that my Dunlops have never come loose unexpectedly, but they've been better for me in that regard than my Schallers were.

Granted, if you just stand in place and don't move around a lot and always make sure that the receptacles on the strap have not moved/rotated, then the Schallers should be just fine.