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Dingwall Owners Club

So I am knocking around thoughts about new strings for my AB1. I have a set of dingwall steels on right now and I dig the tone, but I always have this want to try something different.

Has anyone here run D'Addario chrome flats on their Dingwall? I also wonder about the nickle Dingwall strings. Can anyone express the tonal/playability differences between these strings and the steels I currently have?

I recall someone checking D'Addario years ago (not sure which model) and the length of the B string was hit-and-miss. Sometimes the B would taper just before the nut, making the B string unplayable. That said, these production details vary over time and maybe it's better now. Maybe not.

There's a huge repository on information about different string manufacturers over at the Dingwall forums, in the Strings section. Also, Payson offers flatwounds specifically designed for long-scale Dingwalls.
 
I've always liked the Dingwall steel strings. I tried Circle K and others, but always came back to Dingwall steel.

Then Sheldon cooked up the Nickel strings. I like them a tad better than the steel. None of the extra 'zing' and they feel a bit stiffer than the steel.

I've got them on both the Super P/J and the Super P. They really let the bass shine thru (whatever that means?!). No real change in tone or degradation over the months. Very consistent.
 
I've used the Voodoo steels for a couple decades now(gosh I'm getting old!). I haven't been able to try the DW nickels but I've run a couple sets of the Payson low tension nickels. They're a good replacement in terms of fit and feel and sound like what you would expect..... slightly less zing, a hair of mid-bump and a bit more traction/less slick to the touch.
 
The new Dingwall nickels are nice. Payson's nickel rounds are very cool. I really liked the reduced core, followed by the medium lights. I've got some TI jazz flats on the AB-1 fiver. Infeld superalloy, superlong are a inexpensive choice from the TI family. Lots of good choices.

I'll be going back to the Payson reduced core here in a few weeks. They've been soaking in denatured alcohol, the first time I've tried this trick. We'll see. The Dingwall nickels have a nice, relaxed feel once I got over the new string zing. I'd like to see a domestic dealer for the Dingwall product. Payson strings are at Bassstringsonline.com, one very cool vendor!

I'm just not into stainless steel strings, so I'm only able to comment on nickel and alloys.

I've also completely revamped my technique since getting Dingwalls. There turned out to be a much larger range of expression available, but first the heavy handed right hand had to go. At first, I had to raise the action on my Dingwalls, then I started wondering about things. Like most carpenters, I lean toward "bigger hammer" solutions, but as I get older and maybe, smarter, I'm not into working so hard. Finesse is the way to go. Let the amp do the lifting.

I'm another guy who can't say enough about how cool the Dingwall shop customer service has been, and I've yet to buy a new bass. All the help I could want for my used basses. If my lottery plan ever works out, a new, custom, x top, AB-2 sixer, is first on my list.
 
I'm another light touch type. I play in three different situations where the bands are very dynamic, and I like to have a big dynamic and tonal range without constantly fiddling with the knobs. I also like to have the bass fairly bright, then moderate it with my touch.

Can't do that, if your attack already starts at 11.


Sent from my iPad using TalkBass
 
We were discussing playing Dingwall basses, weren't we? :bassist:

I've been using DR stainless steel rounds (Lo-Riders and Hi-Beams) on my Super series basses. They fit fine and I can't tell the difference between them and the Dingwalls. The best part is the significantly lower cost.

Same here...DR's are actually the only string I've heard Sheldon specifically recommend if you aren't using his strings ;)

I've used both nickel and steel Lo-Riders as well as Hi-Beams on my Super P and they all sound and feel killer...speaking of which, Maurilio from Nordstrand just finished the route and install of the bridge FD3, so technically it's now a Super PJ...I get to pick it up tomorrow :D
Super.JPG
 
Same here...DR's are actually the only string I've heard Sheldon specifically recommend if you aren't using his strings ;)

Do DRs work for the long scale Dingwalls or just the Supers?

Dingwall have just changed from having GHS make their strings, to D'Addario. The D'Addario's steels were on my Z3 and had the faulty E. [Interestingly, I've had issues with D'Addario E's before. They've always been happy to replace them though.] I was sent a set of the GHS steels from the local distributor, which I initially preferred, but other than the E not being faulty, I think the D'Addarios sound better. They seem to have less zing and more upper mid definition.
 
Do DRs work for the long scale Dingwalls or just the Supers?

Dingwall have just changed from having GHS make their strings, to D'Addario. The D'Addario's steels were on my Z3 and had the faulty E. [Interestingly, I've had issues with D'Addario E's before. They've always been happy to replace them though.] I was sent a set of the GHS steels from the local distributor, which I initially preferred, but other than the E not being faulty, I think the D'Addarios sound better. They seem to have less zing and more upper mid definition.

The DR's work on the long scale four strings, but are about a half inch too short for the long scale 5 strings.
 
Except you didn't go away thinking you needed a Dingwall, which you might well have done otherwise.
Don't worry too much, Greg, I've previously owned two Dingwalls and expect I will buy another, in future. I didn't really notice the Z3 issue and was still thinking about dropping back to try it again when you bought it. I should thank for for saving my marriage. :) I did have a couple of minor issues in the past, with my new AB2 X-Top, and Sheldon went out of his way to find solutions and options for me. Eventually, it boiled down to the fact that I didn't like the Glock pre-amp frequencies, or the percussive tone of walnut, compared to my old mahogany AB2. Now that mahogany is available again, as a body wood, I'm giving it serious consideration!

EG
 
Same here...DR's are actually the only string I've heard Sheldon specifically recommend if you aren't using his strings ;)

I've used both nickel and steel Lo-Riders as well as Hi-Beams on my Super P and they all sound and feel killer...speaking of which, Maurilio from Nordstrand just finished the route and install of the bridge FD3, so technically it's now a Super PJ...I get to pick it up tomorrow :DView attachment 428890

Maurilio did a wonderful job! I will assume that it sounds as good as it looks. :)
 
Cool. I have no issue with top end, if it is too much I the BlueQube. Guess I am sticking with the steels for a bit since they feel so nice. Now I have to figure out where I am going to buy them, for when I *do* need to replace them.

You already know that I tend to soak my strings in pure denatured alcohol and that really does work. It also saves money on strings as well as the ordering process. I go to the hardware store an get a container of the purest stuff I can find (usually 98-99%) and I have a tupperware container marked 'Z Strings' (still have one marked AB). I coil them, and drop them in until I next feel the need to switch. The last round of strings lasted me nearly 4 years before I repurchased, rotating between 2 or 3 sets. Cost effective and since string changes are so quick and easy, its simple to switch them out in less than 10 minutes.

When it comes to buying Dingwall Strings, for years I bought from Jong at Jive Sound. He was regional to me (DC), so shipping cost wasn't too bad and his pricing was reasonable. Recently I've tried and either didn't get a response or he was out of stock on them. In comparing the overall 'end cost' between ordering from Bass Central or from Sheldon himself, it came out the same or cheaper to buy from Sheldon and in the end I'd rather do that anyway. BC was more expensive on the strings but cheaper on the shipping and Sheldon was cheaper on the strings but shipping was more.

I need to order more at some point, and I really have enjoyed the red label nickel wrapped strings. Sheldon graciously sent me a set early on, and I really have liked them. In fact, just weeks before getting them I had purchased 3 sets of the steels and found myself still gravitating to the nickels.
 
I have a tupperware container marked 'Z Strings' (still have one marked AB). I coil them, and drop them in until I next feel the need to switch. T

Coiling the strings (arguably) puts stress on them and shortens their life.
Think of the coiled string like a the spine of a person who is either slouching or arching their back.

A 40" long section of 1" or 1.25" PVC (capped on one end) will eliminate the need to coil the strings.

The PVC pipe and two end caps (one gets cemented on for the bottom, the other is press-fit on top to limit evaporation and spillage) will set you back less than $5 in parts.

I play aggressively and I like a bright tone, and I've literally gotten YEARS out of my Dingwall strings.
Put it this way; I've been playing Dingwall basses for 11 years, I've owned 4, and I've bought less than a dozen sets of strings in that time.

CAVEAT: My hands don't sweat much when I play, and when they do, it doesn't seem especially acidic.
 
Coiling the strings (arguably) puts stress on them and shortens their life.
Think of the coiled string like a the spine of a person who is either slouching or arching their back.

A 40" long section of 1" or 1.25" PVC (capped on one end) will eliminate the need to coil the strings.

The PVC pipe and two end caps (one gets cemented on for the bottom, the other is press-fit on top to limit evaporation and spillage) will set you back less than $5 in parts.

I play aggressively and I like a bright tone, and I've literally gotten YEARS out of my Dingwall strings.
Put it this way; I've been playing Dingwall basses for 11 years, I've owned 4, and I've bought less than a dozen sets of strings in that time.

CAVEAT: My hands don't sweat much when I play, and when they do, it doesn't seem especially acidic.


As Sheldon knows from my neck-bolt rust situation, I can put a hurt on some metal. ;) But really I 'coil' gently and in such a way that there's no undue stress on the strings. My experience is that in using the same 2 or 3 sets over a 4-year+ period (2008 until last year), that whatever stress was on the strings didn't effect their useable life in comparison for how long you're going to keep the strings anyway. Although if people want to make a PVC tube, that's a fairly easy one day project. I like strings that 'feel' lively although I roll back the highs in my tone.