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Dingwall Owners Club

I suggested that Sheldon go in this direction, but he probably made the right choice.

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I obviously don't know as much about the "symbology there" as you do, but I agree, just a brilliant logo. Instantly communicates both the Car, Bass, and Native American visual rhetoric while at the same time is very true to Sheldon's design principles. If it really was just that he "had some turquoise laying around" and sat down and came up with that without any extensive revisions, that's pretty remarkable.
 
I obviously don't know as much about the "symbology there" as you do, but I agree, just a brilliant logo. Instantly communicates both the Car, Bass, and Native American visual rhetoric while at the same time is very true to Sheldon's design principles. If it really was just that he "had some turquoise laying around" and sat down and came up with that without any extensive revisions, that's pretty remarkable.

Nothing really happens by random at the shop as far as I can tell. I'm guessing that the design was in mind, and he just happened to have the turquoise on hand...and the two intersected in a fitting way.
 
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That's what I figured. It seems like he is never satisfied and is always honing. The thing that plagues most people like that is they don't know when to leave well enough alone. He possesses the uncanny ability of knowing when something is "finished." Seriously am more and more convinced that he's in a league all his own with every new photo he posts.

I don't think there are any others out there who do what he does or how he does it. Upon recognizing that fact, I was pretty secure in my decision to buy my first and later order a custom, and even later get an early one. I'm not sure everyone realizes how singular what's going on in the shop really is. Ground up high quality design and engineering beyond what exists in that range of the MI industry.
 
I don't think there are any others out there who do what he does or how he does it. Upon recognizing that fact, I was pretty secure in my decision to buy my first and later order a custom, and even later get an early one. I'm not sure everyone realizes how singular what's going on in the shop really is. Ground up high quality design and engineering beyond what exists in that range of the MI industry.
It is truly inspiring to see such in the MI industry.

Yes, I ordered my basses on faith of what I was seeing with his products and have never actually played one of them until I got a NG2 and Combustion in. Now it is so difficult to wait on my Canadian builds!
 
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good to see someone ELSE as crazy fussy by putting their string ball ends facing all the same way. LOL...looks super clean :)

A properly orientated string set will rarely/never have all the ball ends perfectly lined up. The ball ends need to be free to rotate until they set in. There's bound to be a twist in some of the strings compromising tone if they're all OCD perfectly lined up.
 
More than speculation. I'm surprised that there hasn't been more excitement from this tease. The D-Bird has been flying on the horizon for YEARS now and Sheldon mentioned that he had something to unveil at the London show. Here it is folks...BOOM BOOM BOOM.

A handful of years ago, these early renderings of what a D-Bird might look like leaked from the shop. I really wonder what it looks like in reality now that it's off the ground.

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I've never really GAS'd for a T-bird, but, of course @Sheldon D. is going to end up designing and building the only T-bird that works ergonomically and doesn't just output a bunch of dark, muddy rumble. It would be especially cool if they went with that proposed MM style pickup placement for yet another tonal flavor in the big Dingwall tone palette.
 
oh booo....so im back to being in the "lonely league". :( lol .......Bluescat, I better check my others then... cuz im almost positive they're all lined up. :)

I know, it looks pretty doesn't it.

Guys, one way you can tell quickly if you have a twist in your string without removing it:

Do a line of sight from your bridge to your headstock in good lighting. Stare straight down the string with one eye squinted. Pluck the string, watch to see the orbit. If you have a twist in the string you'll see it clearly in a fraction of a second. Don't blink because you could miss it, it happens that fast. Enjoy that OCD lol.

I learned this in an article by Wolf Grenadine (sp), the Berkley bass tech, written for Bass Player Magazine gear review issue, circa 2005? A lot of the set up advice resonated with me.

So why go through these steps for a properly orientated string, doing things like running your fingers down the string throughout the wind process until right before the ball end settles in? Because your bass sound will reach it's fullest potential. Each note will have equal sustain and tone, barring any dead spots on the neck. The strings will last longer too.
 
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I know, it looks pretty doesn't it.

Guys, one way you can tell quickly if you have a twist in your string without removing it.

Do a line of sight from your bridge to your headstock in good lighting. Stare straight down the string with one eye squinted. Pluck the string, watch to see the orbit. If you have a twist in the string you'll see it clearly in a fraction of a second. Don't blink because you could miss it, it happens that fast. Enjoy that OCD lol.

I learned this in an article by Wolf Grenadine (sp), the Berkley bass tech, written for Bass Player Magazine gear review issue, circa 2005? A lot of the set up advice resonated with me.
oh GREAT!!! something ELSE to stare at!!...im leaving work to go home and check NOW. hahahaa...not really...........well...maybe.......
 
I've never really GAS'd for a T-bird, but, of course @Sheldon D. is going to end up designing and building the only T-bird that works ergonomically and doesn't just output a bunch of dark, muddy rumble. It would be especially cool if they went with that proposed MM style pickup placement for yet another tonal flavor in the big Dingwall tone palette.

Any thoughts on scale length? Are we talking about a Super Series bass with a 35/32 or something, or do y'all fancy a fully thundered TBird with a 34/37?
 
Any thoughts on scale length? Are we talking about a Super Series bass with a 35/32 or something, or do y'all fancy a fully thundered TBird with a 34/37?
I think the 35" scale is the way to go, but I'm are they could make the 37" feel good too. How long has Gibson been building ergonomically inferior electric instruments now?