I run my SJ/P4 and SJ5 in active mode, no boost or cut, and the pickup selector in parallel.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
My Super PJ stays in passive mode, and gets the P solo'd, or next click for both in series, and I've found things to love about the next click, both in parallel. Not much for the solo'd bridge, but I've been meaning to make the quick mod to series on that bridge super fatty. It's quick and easily reversible.
I keep the pre amp set for a slight bass boost if I should accidentally engage your active side of things.
Passive tone control gets rolled off a bit back from the detent.
I think folks get into the series setting since it is the loudest and "widest" feel. But the focused P tone and the tight parallel settings are sweet, they just need a bit of volume.
Really, the more I mess with it, the more I like it.
I keep the pre amp set for a slight bass boost if I should accidentally engage your active side of things.
Passive tone control gets rolled off a bit back from the detent.
I think folks get into the series setting since it is the loudest and "widest" feel. But the focused P tone and the tight parallel settings are sweet, they just need a bit of volume.
Really, the more I mess with it, the more I like it.
- Sep 3, 2006
- 4,358
- 6,117
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- Authorized dealer for Dingwall, Genzler, Phil Jones Bass, Cort, Traynor, Yorkville Sound
Sweet color!This is the new-to-me Combustion 5 I picked up a few months back. Pups & elex are all stock but I did add Hipshot UL's and a Dunlop strap button in the correct position. What is interesting is that it is S/N #00021 so I'll assume it's from the first batch and pretty much in near mint condition...mods notwithstanding.
Riis
My ABZ is either P-tone neck soloed flat but active, or parallel flat active, occasionally with a bit of bass boost or treble roll off as needed.
My Voodoo Prima is a different beast, with Bart soaps, Bart 2band preamp and a pup blend pot.
Interestingly, I rarely stray from balanced blend and just occasionally will cut treble or boost bass. Sheldon knew where the sweet spot is on that bass and I feel no reason to stray from it.
My Voodoo Prima is a different beast, with Bart soaps, Bart 2band preamp and a pup blend pot.
Interestingly, I rarely stray from balanced blend and just occasionally will cut treble or boost bass. Sheldon knew where the sweet spot is on that bass and I feel no reason to stray from it.
With my SJ5, when I use both pickups I have them in parallel. Seeing as it is a P/J, I still get the throaty mids from the P pickup, but it's still more mid scooped than series. I also often use the P soloed as well. All with a little bass boost and slight tone roll off.
My passive 3X is normally in the bridge+middle setting. I guess I must have hidden MM leanings I didn't know about!
With my passive SJ5XXX, I use neck in series with the series/parallel switch engaged for a powerful Ptone. I also use the neck/bridge in series, switches on for a very smooth but powerful bass tone. For a cutting tone with mid and bass I like the mid/bridge with both switches engaged. And finally, for a convincing Jazz bass tone I use mid/bridge with the mid switch off, and the bridge switch on.
Bass is at 90% for all settings.
It's amazing to have a passive bass with 4 distinct and useable tones. For the first time in 48 years of bass playing and owning, there is nothing about this bass I would change tone wise, and overall, am just adding Luminlay lines to the knobs.
It was a long search, but finally I have found MY perfect bass!
Bass is at 90% for all settings.
It's amazing to have a passive bass with 4 distinct and useable tones. For the first time in 48 years of bass playing and owning, there is nothing about this bass I would change tone wise, and overall, am just adding Luminlay lines to the knobs.
It was a long search, but finally I have found MY perfect bass!
Thanks! There's a few others out there from what I'd seen on the gallery, but it's definitely not common to have a passive AB2. I figure it keeps the complexity of the bass itself down (fewer knobs to worry about) and lets all that go on the pedalboard if necessary. We got it as both a high-quality bass as well as "art" that we'd be able to have in the house, and the natural laurel top with the scroll definitely fit the bill as "playable art".That is a unique and beautiful beast, idale.It is the first passive 3X with the 'F holes' that I have seen.
Against my better judgement, I'm considering releasing this one back into the TB wild:
SOLD - Dingwall Super J5 Custom Exotic
Drop me a PM if interested. I'll post a FS/FT thread soon.
SOLD - Dingwall Super J5 Custom Exotic
Drop me a PM if interested. I'll post a FS/FT thread soon.
Geeze, I wish I could pick that up from you, @whirledpeas ! I almost want to come over to look at it / play it before it disappears again 
Sadly, I'm a couple of weeks away from closing on a house, and also am expecting to finalize my AB1 order right around the same time.
Sadly, I'm a couple of weeks away from closing on a house, and also am expecting to finalize my AB1 order right around the same time.
Awesome bass and great TB'er.
I also just relisted this one. I've been on and off the fence about it, but recently gave up gigging and if I'm going to be on the couch I'd like to have a six string. There's a bass I'm after so I'm up to hearing offers if anyone is interested. I wish you all could feel the neck on this one!
For Sale - Dingwall Super PJ5
Question for you guys!
Let's say I decide having a four string in B standard doesn't end up being right for me and I end up missing the high G. Other then new strings, what else would I have to do to get this to the original dingwall specs? New strings and intonation right? The tension on the strings should be the same, so I'm thinking no neck adjustments should be necessary.
Let's say I decide having a four string in B standard doesn't end up being right for me and I end up missing the high G. Other then new strings, what else would I have to do to get this to the original dingwall specs? New strings and intonation right? The tension on the strings should be the same, so I'm thinking no neck adjustments should be necessary.
You'll likely need a new nut and a full setup. That's intonation, relief (truss rod), and string height at the bridge.
The nut is the only difficult part. Any competent luthier should be able to cut one.
The nut is the only difficult part. Any competent luthier should be able to cut one.
Yea, I really want to start exploring playing with a Low B. (Plus it's a dingwall with a 36inch scale, might as well have a B.)
But I think a lot of my favorite music is in Drop D or C.
Has anyone experimented with a 36.25 E string can be dropped to C comfortably?
But I think a lot of my favorite music is in Drop D or C.
Has anyone experimented with a 36.25 E string can be dropped to C comfortably?
I've run my Super PJ B-G (how it came to me) and E-C. Ideally, it would have a new nut for E-C, but I only have a tiny open string rattle on the G string. Hardly a deal breaker. I think that issue would be remedied with a string tree, but my Super 5 is a very early model, before the string tree was added.
I've also run this bass B-G with the untapered TI flats. The B string is a whopping .136. Sure, the nut could have been cut a bit to lower the action over the first frets, but again, not a deal breaker.
I'm going to load the lightest gauge set of DR Pure Blues, E-C, and we will see if the nut issue becomes a real problem. At that point, either a string tree or a new nut might be in order.
Just saying, in my experience, the nut has a good bit of lee way. Being a Dingwall, the rest of the set up ( truss rod, intonation, string height, and pick ups) are a breeze. I would run through all of these with any new set of strings either way.
Once I settle on the string set I might go for a new nut, but for now I can run either way, low B or low E with no serious issues.
I used to run all my Dingwalls a half step down with no issues. I haven't gone lower than D flat with my E string, but that was borderline flop.
I've also run this bass B-G with the untapered TI flats. The B string is a whopping .136. Sure, the nut could have been cut a bit to lower the action over the first frets, but again, not a deal breaker.
I'm going to load the lightest gauge set of DR Pure Blues, E-C, and we will see if the nut issue becomes a real problem. At that point, either a string tree or a new nut might be in order.
Just saying, in my experience, the nut has a good bit of lee way. Being a Dingwall, the rest of the set up ( truss rod, intonation, string height, and pick ups) are a breeze. I would run through all of these with any new set of strings either way.
Once I settle on the string set I might go for a new nut, but for now I can run either way, low B or low E with no serious issues.
I used to run all my Dingwalls a half step down with no issues. I haven't gone lower than D flat with my E string, but that was borderline flop.
