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fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

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#121
PeterT55 said:
Hi Guys;
Hoping to get some suggestions here. I am considering building one of these. I don't know which one would be my best choice tho. Leaning toward a 15/6 as of now. Not sure if a 12/6 would be enough for most gigs or possibly building 2 would be the choice. I raely use PA support. I play some gigs where I use 1 GK NEO 2/12 II cab. Others I might bring 2. I tend not to like the harshness of most tweeters and think the 6 would do fine. So I'm looking for advice based on what you who use these would offer. I have a GK2001RB and a GK700RB for amps so no power issues. I have noticed the cube cabs too, are these an "add on" type cab or could be a single choice? I know the info is on here somewhere, but I don't have time to go thru it all so I would apreciate any help you guys can give. Hearing great things about these tho! Thanx in advance.........Peter
Click to expand...

This read will probably give you more insight to make a decision with.
 
#123
Just finished the glue up on my 3/8 Baltic Birch 12/6 and am enjoying a celebratory pilsener. :hyper: The glue up got a bit hairy as I was using no screws or brads. There are 17 clamps on the box and I could have used a few more.

I took a few pix as I went through the process, so I'll set up a build page in the Wiki although, since I used 3/8 BB, I'm not sure if I'm building a fEARful or a nEARful. ;)

Time to open another bEERful.
 
#125
dug dog said:
Just finished the glue up on my 3/8 Baltic Birch 12/6 and am enjoying a celebratory pilsener. :hyper: The glue up got a bit hairy as I was using no screws or brads. There are 17 clamps on the box and I could have used a few more.

I took a few pix as I went through the process, so I'll set up a build page in the Wiki although, since I used 3/8 BB, I'm not sure if I'm building a fEARful or a nEARful. ;)

Time to open another bEERful.
Click to expand...

Really anxious to hear how it turns out for you. If you built it to specs (aside from the plywood thickness) then it most surely is a fEARful.
 
#126
dug dog said:
Just finished the glue up on my 3/8 Baltic Birch 12/6 and am enjoying a celebratory pilsener. :hyper: The glue up got a bit hairy as I was using no screws or brads. There are 17 clamps on the box and I could have used a few more.

I took a few pix as I went through the process, so I'll set up a build page in the Wiki although, since I used 3/8 BB, I'm not sure if I'm building a fEARful or a nEARful. ;)

Time to open another bEERful.
Click to expand...

I couldn't get brads working on the 3/8" ply - if I had it to do again I would try staples. Clamping that thing was a super pain.
 
#127
greenboy said:
Another experienced authorized builder is now listed on the fEARful website - Zack Brock of wavepulse acoustics. Great guys with loads of audio experience (I wish they'd send me their loudspeaker measurement equipment) keep emailing me, in spite of the neo speed-bump.

Welcome, Zack!
Click to expand...

Thanks greenboy, glad to be on the team :)
 
#129
Took some pics of our 1515/66 yesterday. Thought I'd share.

DSC_1298.jpg


Yeah, it is pretty light.

Robby
 
#131
Hey Peter,
I think the 15/6 would do it for you.
The cone mid isn't harsh.
If you were to use the tweeter, as well, it isn't harsh either,
partly because it's better than most, partly because it's crossed over higher than most.

If you were to go back and read the previous 10,000+ posts, you will notice not one complaint about harshness.

I ordered my JBL waveguide today.
One more baby step.
 
#134
PeterT55, with the GK's biamp you can run a horn completely independent of the the rest of the cab. You get to control the 5k and up frequencies on the amp. The horn and wave guide are not that expensive (less than $40), and you get to find out just what the GK's high section will do. While this isn't the thing that I dig the most about my 15/6/1, it is pretty cool. If you do upright electric or acoustic basses, you'll like this part of the sound. It's nothing like the usual crappy tweeters that I normally turn off and forget about.

My take is that the cube configurations are there to better mix and match sizes. For example a 12/6 cube will stack neatly on a 15/6. Look here:

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At least that's what I'm going for with a 12/6 cube. I'll put the Alpha 6 in to start, and if that doesn't do it, I can put an 18sound mid in. The 18 sound needs a more expensive crossover, the Lpad parts ad up, but it is a killer mid driver. If you go with the 15/6/1 you need the 18 sound mid.
 
#137
lelandcrooks said:
Crap, do not use. Will split, splinter and generally make your life miserable. If you're willing to dado every joint it's barely usable. Butt joints, and edge fastening require the 5ply min. Auraco.
Click to expand...

Agree completely. I used 3-ply non-Baltic Birch from Menards and didn't notice all the voids until I started cutting. For $10 more, I could have had BB. Get more plies. It's worth it, I'm sure. :mad:
 
#138
Bill Whitehurst, Singlemalt; Hey thanx so much. That's exactly what I'm looking for with this idea. You know how it is,...you know it will sound good, but there a few things you just can't tell until you have one. I'm not sure what to do about a tweeter still because I seem to get plenty of high end even w/out using the ones I have. Anyway, thanx again guys! Time to start cutting some birch....:)
 
#139
Someone asked about this when i was deep into my complex tax situation. Please folks, read up before you butcher. Saves the meat.

From the fEARful FAQ, cabinet specs:

"The 15/6tube is exactly the same internal size and tuning as the regular 15/6. It just features a different form factor to accommodate either 24"-wide tube heads when placed one way, or 26"-wide tube heads placed on the longer side. This is different than the 20" rack-width design of the regular 15/6. Also note that there is no optional tweeter cutout because most people agree that tube heads suck with tweeters. However, if you must have one, an Eminence APT80 can be placed right next to the midrange driver. It should be CLOSE - not like that Avatar TB153 placement blunder."

One can block one side of the port if they want sealed-box characteristics for their particular tube head. Several ways to easily do that were discussed in one of the megathreads.
 
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