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First Build - "Lucifer"

Okay, so parts are starting to arrive for all the electronics. I guess I better figure out how to get these bridge saddles mounted and start getting serious about carving a nut.

I still don't own a drill press (pillar drill for you UK peeps), so I drug it out to the race shop, where we literally have everything. First priority was to get that broken screw out. You should have seen the faces of my race team when I opened up the case on this thing at the race shop! :roflmao:

So, I purchased one of those "hole cutter" screw extractor bits from the Amazonians. Get this thing clamped up in a drill press and all lined up, I think we're ready to go here -
20210227_104031.jpg


Things were going really smooth until the screw extractor bit broke in half -
20210227_104141.jpg

Have I mentioned that wenge must be made of concrete and hatred? :meh:
Luckily there was just enough extractor bit left to flip it around and use the teeth on the opposite end (yes, it came with teeth on both ends, thank God).

I did manage to get the screw out, but the bit is completely wasted. Clearly a one-use deal there, but I'm calling this a success -
20210227_104820.jpg


So next I'm back to plugging the hole and then trying to redrill new screw holes in what is essentially my driveway and praying to the demon Gods that I don't break anything else off. I'm honestly freaked out beyond reality here and I may just put this on hold until I actually get a drill press. Trying to do this with a handheld drill isn't working. I can see that my brad point bit is actually bent ever so slightly. So yeah...... :meh: :cautious: :nailbiting:

But, now we're up to:
Darkglass Tone Capsule is in hand.
Pickups are in hand.
Volume pot is in hand.
Jack and all my switches arrive this week.
I really need to get going on this thing.
 
Things were going really smooth until the screw extractor bit broke in half -
View attachment 4185832
Have I mentioned that wenge must be made of concrete and hatred? :meh:
Luckily there was just enough extractor bit left to flip it around and use the teeth on the opposite end (yes, it came with teeth on both ends, thank God).

So next I'm back to plugging the hole and then trying to redrill new screw holes in what is essentially my driveway and praying to the demon Gods that I don't break anything else off. I'm honestly freaked out beyond reality here and I may just put this on hold until I actually get a drill press. Trying to do this with a handheld drill isn't working. I can see that my brad point bit is actually bent ever so slightly. So yeah...... :meh: :cautious: :nailbiting:

But, now we're up to:
Darkglass Tone Capsule is in hand.
Pickups are in hand.
Volume pot is in hand.
Jack and all my switches arrive this week.
I really need to get going on this thing.
Having never worked on wenge myself, I conclude that it's a wood which must be approached carefully. My past experiences with other woods like this are that a drill press is absolutely best, and taking a shallow "peck" at the hole (maybe 1/16" at a time), backing out and letting the bit cool, then peck at it again, back out, rinse and repeat. I'm sure our more experienced friends will be along to let us know if I'm all wet or not.

Don't despair Tim, most things in wood are fixable, just don't rush the process.
:thumbsup:
 
Really hard woods or needing to use screws of questionable origin you can make a "tap" out of a screw by filing/dremeling a slot down the side of the screw to create a cutting edge. Turn the screw in and back it out like a tap and tap the hole into the wood.
Missed this earlier. I suggest "move right to machine screws and a real tap" (well, more for the hard wood than cheap screws) - works quite well most of the time. "But it's not a wood screw!" Yet it works. "You need to use an insert!" No, most of the time you really don't, unless you are cranking the <bleep> out of the screws, and mostly you shouldn't need to do that. (note, I mean inserts for threaded holes. I fully agree that a metal insert for wooden knobs is a Very Good Idea.)

Even moreso since Tim is more comfortable with metal than wood, so tapping a hole should be well in comfort-zone.
 
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Dual Humbuckers? Check!
Darkglass Tone Capsule? Check!
Volume Pot? Check!
Jack? Check!
6 Mini Toggles? Check!
20210304_151211.jpg

Because "Less" is NOT more....and you'll never convince this child of the 80s glam / hair metal era otherwise! :roflmao:
You guys should just be thankful I didn't swirl paint this one too! At least.... I haven't yet. :D :smug: :laugh:

I think everything is in hand now. I really better sort out the bridge saddles, including the fact that I need to route a recess to get my string height down. Prolly should have designed in a neck angle. Live and learn I guess. Live and learn. There's always next time. :thumbsup:
 
I'm thinking about ordering some of this, probably white, and painting the bottom of the inlay holes with it, then filling with clear epoxy.
I'll have to order some and test it out on some scrap to see if it works.
You'll want to look into @Fat Freddy 's work with resins and glow powder, or at least I think you will. It's scattered through a long build thread. referred to earlier in this long build thread. #402
 
Okay, let's resurrect this zombie build, shall we?

I've been overly depressed about this build due to some issues so I kind of walked away from it for a while.
Recapping where we left off: I had purchased a fancy screw extractor drill bit to remove the screw I broke off in there. What I didn't realize was that there was still a small chunk of drill bit that jad broken off in there before the screw broke off. :meh: Apparently I'm an over achiever. Thus the reason I walked away.

So....i set up the ol' ShopSmith in drill press mode -
20210507_213418_HDR.jpg

For those of you that have never seen one of these, it's kind of a feat of engineering and quite frankly a godsend for a guy with limited space like me.
So, line everything up, clamp up the bass and get to work. It went rather well, just go slow, take small bites, come up for air, remember that wenge is made of concrete and hatred. After a bit I finally got it -
20210507_213359_HDR.jpg

Yup, that's the remains of that drill bit -
20210507_213541.jpg

Got that sucker!. Luckily I also managed to keep my fancy extractor bit in one piece just in case I pull that off again. :meh:

Okay, I haven't plugged the hole yet. But maybe i can get back to work on this now.
 
Glad you’re getting back to it. I have an old Dean explorer bass body that I had to work on and refinish. I think it’s maple but it’s the oldest, hardest maple I’ve ever seen. Fixing a stripped out bridge screw hole 2 screws and an extractor broke off. I ended up using larger then normal size pilot holes and lots of wax on the threads.
 
Two tips I've picked up with Wenge and other really hard, dense woods:
1. Drill pilot holes oversized compared to what you'd use in a softer wood. I pick one size larger than the same thickness as the screw core. As long as it's narrower than the threads, it's good IME.

2. Sometimes you can use a bolt instead of a screw by tapping the hole for threads. This works way better than I ever imagined it would. As long as the top of the bolt gets side load as well as a pulling load, it won't pull out under pressure. :thumbsup:
 
Sometimes you can use a bolt instead of a screw by tapping the hole for threads
I wonder how well it would work or how beneficial it would be to tap the hole, then soak the threads with a thin CA, remove the excess by wicking it up with a cotton swab or twisted up paper towel, then hitting it with activator.
If it's a CA that requires an activator and has working time, you might even be able to fill the hole with CA with a syringe, let it soak in for a few seconds, pull it back out with the syringe and go to the next hole.
 
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