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G&L Club Part 7

Not sure I'll back off the volume quite a bit, but will back it off some and back off the tone a bit. And then play with the various pickup settings to see what works for each song. Some of our songs need a somewhat aggressive bass sound (late '70s/early '80s punk/pop-punk type stuff). Others require a cleaner/smoother P-bass type sound. And others need more of a modern bass type sound. I need flexibility.
My approach is to get a good sound in single and parallel with the volume at full. Then when I switch to series, it's like turning on an active preamp - massive bass and volume boost. That's awesome if that's what I want. But to get a normal (but bass boosted) sound to match the volume of single coil and parallel switch settings, I have to back off the volume like to about a 7. So that's an easy switch: if I'm full volume in parallel or single and don't want a massive volume boost in series, I just back off the volume.

So not even messing with tone, that's four excellent and different sounds: parallel, single coil, bass boost, bass boost active.

Anyways, that's my approach to the MFD, expanded version.
 
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Just spotted on his website that Greg is about to received a "Builders Choice" LB-100 with a 1.5" nut and block inlays on Indian Rosewood - neither of which are available for BTO these days.

Black and 3-ply parchment pg. See here. As always, remember to ask Greg if he can do better than publicly advertised price :smug:

(I think I saw the G&L listing giving a sub-9 lb weight, but given their recent record on that front.... )
 
Just because I can, does it mean I should? For $5 and change, I figure I'd fill in the previously drilled holes. Tried it a bit, don't know if I like how high my thumb is off the strings, but for some songs, it may fit the tonal bill.

Here's before:
View attachment 5101290

Here's after:
View attachment 5101291

New thread didn't seem worthy. Only within the friendly confines of the G&L Club did it feel right. That said, I'd prefer non-drilled wood, but such is life.

Update to the thumb rest (I know you are all on the edges of your seats!):

Took it to yacht rock practice the other night. Everything was great. There is a minute difference in tone, a little bit rounder and fuller, probably unnoticeable by anyone but me. Thumb position made my hand higher than I'm used to, but I didn't hate it and it didn't hinder my playing ability.

HOWEVER

We got to "Somebody's Baby" and there's a tiny bit of slapping. I am not a slapper, but I made do on the slapping parts. It worked fine and we moved on. But then I got to "Peg" and the choruses? All slapping. And that thumb rest simply gets in the way.

Keep in mind, a slapper I am not, so maybe (probably) it's my technique and how the bass hangs on its strap as I'm standing, but I kept whacking the corner of the thumb rest into the bottom knuckle of my thumb. Which means for at least two songs, I either need to bring a different bass entirely (no thumb rest), or remove the thumb rest and live with the holes.

For now, it stays on as I won't be slapping for the next few weeks. Overall, not a big deal, not worthy of its own thread, but is G&L related so here it goes. Carry on!
 
Got this L-2000 2004 Fullerton in trade for a 1999-2000 Fender Sting Signature bass.

What a beast of a bass this is. It seems that the key is keeping the knobs backed off because maxing them causes so much overdrive that the subtlety of the tone gets lost.

Is the lack of fretboard markers common? I had not seen that on a G&L before.




IMG_6612.jpeg IMG_6611.jpeg
 
Hello.

I'm thinking of a build.

Anyone seen both Pearl White and Alpine White in person? Could you explain the differences? On the G&L website, they look the same. So that's not too helpful.

I have an M2000 Tribute in white that I really like. But it's Indonesian and I never found out whether it is Pearl or Alpine.

I haven't found a pic that directly compares both whites. But it seems like Alpine White is a whiter shade of white, as weird as that sounds...

Thanks!
 
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While I haven't seen those G&L finishes in person, I agree with @Ricky Rioli that pearl should by nature be metallic. Most pearl white finishes I have seen do have a slightly pinkish hue in some lights, or subtle soft green in others.
Alpine white should be much more of a flat solid color. In theory at least.
 
Hello.

I'm thinking of a build.

Anyone seen both Pearl White and Alpine White in person? Could you explain the differences? On the G&L website, they look the same. So that's not too helpful.

I have an M2000 Tribute in white that I really like. But it's Indonesian and I never found out whether it is Pearl or Alpine.

I haven't found a pic that directly compares both whites. But it seems like Alpine White is a whiter shade of white, as weird as that sounds...

Thanks!
It seems the white finish for Tribby M2000 was named Gloss White.
 
I tried combing through the G&L archive on my old website, but all I learned is that I am TERRIBLE at capturing anything white in a photograph. :)

Alpine White and Pearl White should be roughly the same shade of white, one non-metallic (Alpine White) and one metallic (Pearl White). Those are both the purest/brightest white colors G&L offers.

Vintage White is a creamier in color, and Blonde is translucent.

I also had some LB-100's in my archive that were just labelled "White". I'm not sure if I took some shortcuts with the specs (which doesn't sound like me), or maybe they offered the "Gloss White" mentioned above for a minute.

Metallics and Whites are a beeoch to photograph well. Metallic white? Oy!!!!
 
Hello.

I'm thinking of a build.

Anyone seen both Pearl White and Alpine White in person? Could you explain the differences? On the G&L website, they look the same. So that's not too helpful.

I have an M2000 Tribute in white that I really like. But it's Indonesian and I never found out whether it is Pearl or Alpine.

I haven't found a pic that directly compares both whites. But it seems like Alpine White is a whiter shade of white, as weird as that sounds...

Thanks!

If the Pearl White has a metallic hue, I'd go for that. It probably looks killer up close to the eye but some of G&Ls metallic colors don't really show well in photos. Consider a matching headstock on your build, you don't see that as much and to me it really ties the looks of an instrument together.
 
If the Pearl White has a metallic hue, I'd go for that. It probably looks killer up close to the eye but some of G&Ls metallic colors don't really show well in photos. Consider a matching headstock on your build, you don't see that as much and to me it really ties the looks of an instrument together.
I have an NS Design WAV4 that is metallic white. I bought it used a year or so ago. From the pics, I had no idea it was metallic white, but when it arrived, I was like, "Oh yeah!" It has much more "pizzazz" than a plain white.
 
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What are builder's choice?

It's the "Build To Order" instruments, but they were built to specs generated by G&L personnel. So it's basically the same old USA built stuff, but it's ready to ship straight from the factory.

I wondered why they gave a different name to essentially the same product line... but now it makes sense. They want to compete directly with their dealer network. Nimrods.