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G&L Club Part 7

#7,281
XXL said:
I'm a sad panda :(

Unfortunately, my L2K neck has a bad bow and the truss has given all its got. I recently dropped the neck off with a tech and he couldn't free up the truss rod, he said the truss nut was marred and even though he has "special truss rod grabbing wrenches" he was unable to budge the rod. He then did treatments (clamps and heat) and said for me to use light gauge strings... and it helped a tiny bit.
I called G&L and asked if they could take a look at the neck and they said nope. They don't fix necks that are out of warranty, for about as much as a new Tribute, I could have them build me a new neck. SO a shot in the dark.. any tips, tricks, or ideas on how to "home treat" this neck?
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I saw somewhere a company that specialized in repairing necks that no one else could repair and their rates were very reasonable. Cant remember where I saw this, perhaps someone will come along that knows.
 
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#7,282
TDR1138 said:
Were it mine, I'd remove the neck, clamp it into a back bow (don't overdo it, just enough to take the tension off the truss rod), and see if I can work the truss rod nut off gently. Make sure you don't force it, you don't want to snap the truss rod. Make sure the Allen key you're using is fully seated into the hole, too. Or get one of those tools if necessary. Take the truss rod nut off entirely. You can then use a few washers under the nut to give you some extra thread space, then put a new nut on. Do this when the nut is still clamped in a back bow and tighten by hand. Don't crank down on it, but use the back bow from the clamps to set the curve of the neck then use the nut to hold it there. I've rescued a few necks this way.
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Taking the truss rod nut off seems to be the biggest issue with the tech I took it too. Apparently, the nut is stripped and he couldn't remove it with his tools. I'll still try it and hopefully can get the washers in with a new nut. If and when I get the nut removed then I'll start asking questions about washers and what nut replacement I can find for a 95 G&L.
 
#7,283
XXL said:
Taking the truss rod nut off seems to be the biggest issue with the tech I took it too. Apparently, the nut is stripped and he couldn't remove it with his tools. I'll still try it and hopefully can get the washers in with a new nut. If and when I get the nut removed then I'll start asking questions about washers and what nut replacement I can find for a 95 G&L.
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Take the neck to a machinist at a high-end machine shop they can get the nut out and make you a new one
 
#7,285
XXL said:
Taking the truss rod nut off seems to be the biggest issue with the tech I took it too. Apparently, the nut is stripped and he couldn't remove it with his tools. I'll still try it and hopefully can get the washers in with a new nut. If and when I get the nut removed then I'll start asking questions about washers and what nut replacement I can find for a 95 G&L.
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A few years ago, I was visiting Mike Lull's shop and I saw him working on a customers bass which had a stripped truss nut.
He was able to remove it by inserting an allen wrench that was the closest fit, and then proceeded to drip solder around the gap between the wrench and nut. This allowed him to get a grip on the nut and remove it.
Not sure if your tech tried this, but it might be worth a shot.
 
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#7,294
Soon to be NBD courtesy of Greg @RocketMusic!!!

  • MODEL: Kiloton 5
  • BODY: Empress
  • FINISH: Old School Tobacco Burst
  • BRIDGE: G&L Saddle Lock with chrome-plated brass saddles
  • KNOBS: Knurled Dome-top Chrome
  • PICKGUARD: 3-Ply Tortoise Shell
  • NECK PROFILE: G&L Modern C5 - 1 7/8" Nut, 9.5" Radius
  • NECK WOOD: Quartersawn Maple Neck w/ Chechen fingerboard
  • NECK FINISH: Satin Clear
  • FRETS: Medium Jumbo
  • NECK OTHER: White Pearl Face Dots


27F37FD8-5202-4BD8-8FEC-0B71EE631924.jpeg
E3557696-969B-43FD-AF87-2EE0C0554660.jpeg
65902D73-528E-49C1-8917-E6F6AB5384BD.jpeg
 
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#7,297
A-Ro said:
Soon to be NBD courtesy of Greg @RocketMusic!!!

  • MODEL: Kiloton 5
  • BODY: Empress
  • FINISH: Old School Tobacco Burst
  • BRIDGE: G&L Saddle Lock with chrome-plated brass saddles
  • KNOBS: Knurled Dome-top Chrome
  • PICKGUARD: 3-Ply Tortoise Shell
  • NECK PROFILE: G&L Modern C5 - 1 7/8" Nut, 9.5" Radius
  • NECK WOOD: Quartersawn Maple Neck w/ Chechen fingerboard
  • NECK FINISH: Satin Clear
  • FRETS: Medium Jumbo
  • NECK OTHER: White Pearl Face Dots


View attachment 2966135 View attachment 2966133 View attachment 2966134
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Beautiful! Aesthically it's many things an L1500 (or 1505) could never be, in spite of how much they share kinship. I now get why G&L has gone this way.
 
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#7,298
TomB said:
Beautiful! Aesthically it's many things an L1500 (or 1505) could never be, in spite of how much they share kinship. I now get why G&L has gone this way.
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Not gonna lie, I keep seeing Kilotons and thinking they look great, but would really think they'd look better without the pickguard... I'd take a L1500 over a Kiloton for that reason, but I would probably choose a Kiloton 5'er over a L1505 just for the neck specs and headstock. Whatever G&L is doing now with the G string tuner on their 3+2 headstocks just isn't working for me...

5353.jpg
 
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#7,299
TDR1138 said:
Not gonna lie, I keep seeing Kilotons and thinking they look great, but would really think they'd look better without the pickguard... I'd take a L1500 over a Kiloton for that reason, but I would probably choose a Kiloton 5'er over a L1505 just for the neck specs and headstock. Whatever G&L is doing now with the G string tuner on their 3+2 headstocks just isn't working for me...

View attachment 2966256
Click to expand...

I agree I like the 4+1 better visually but 3+2 does keep the headstock length down a little. If that's important.
 

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