Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Got my L2000. Man it has monster tone. Even more output than the Spector LX with Tonepump preamp!
Could anyone direct me to a good thread that describes how to use the micro tilt? The manual leaves me a little confused. The reason I ask is with the G string saddle bottomed out the action is still a little high. No fret buzz, just no adjustment left. If I altered the angle of the neck slightly it would bring the action lower.
Cheers for any help.
Could anyone direct me to a good thread that describes how to use the micro tilt? The manual leaves me a little confused. The reason I ask is with the G string saddle bottomed out the action is still a little high. No fret buzz, just no adjustment left. If I altered the angle of the neck slightly it would bring the action lower.
Cheers for any help.
The micro tilt can cause problems with your neck, it's best to shim the neck and not use the micro tilt screw at all.
Have you checked that your truss rod is giving you what you want? That's step 1, of course. Sorry if obvious.
I have been gassing for a USA LB-100.
I was wondering, can I just write down the options and finish I want and hand it to my local dealer (60 miles away) along with a stack of cash?
What is the usual build time?
I was wondering, can I just write down the options and finish I want and hand it to my local dealer (60 miles away) along with a stack of cash?
What is the usual build time?
Can you elaborate on how/why this happens? I recently adjusted the micro tilt on my old L1000 based on info that I found here in the forums. I haven't had any problems with it, but now I'm concerned.
IMO, the problems that might arise from the micro-tilt are due to user error/improper adjustment. i think the tilt functions as it should as long as you adjust it properly. i use the micro-tilt on my '81 L1K with zero problems.
You have to find a balance between the pressure applied by the micro tilt screw vs the counter pressure of the third neck screw. Obviously that screw needs to be backed out slightly if any micro tilt is applied. Screwing it up can result in a bump at the neck heel over time. That said I used a little tilt on all the old g&'s I have had over the years with no problems. It is definitely a user error issue.
the "ski-jump" issue isn't exclusive to basses/guitars with micro-tilit necks. IIRC, TB'er Bruce Johnson explained the real cause of the ski-jump being that over time, the neck itself will stretch due to string tension, while the fretboard doesn't, so it causes the fretboard to kind of get "scrunched up", resulting in the ski-jump. hopefully he could chime in and correct me if i made any mistakes relaying this info.
Another theory I've read here (which makes sense to me) is that the presence of neck screws allows for moisture migration in the heel area that's different from the rest of the neck, which leads to different swell / shrink cycles. I don't know if anyone knows for sure. My own experience is that the micro-tilt, used carefully, is not an inherent problem. A shim does make more common sense, though, and is a pretty standard fix in Fender-style basses.
what does anyone think about doing the bridge mod, but a little different?
I want to run the b string through the body, and to leave the g string through the bridge, then to do the bridge mod on the middle three strings
i would run the g through the bridge to keep it even pull wise----
want the longer b string through the body to help
I want to run the b string through the body, and to leave the g string through the bridge, then to do the bridge mod on the middle three strings
i would run the g through the bridge to keep it even pull wise----
want the longer b string through the body to help
It is the string length between the nut and the bridge saddle, not the total total string length, that affects how tight your B is (along with string type and gauge of course).
I would do the full bridge mod and be done with it.
