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High priced power cords, koolaid?

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The only difference I can think of that an expensive power cable would make would be if it was compared to a cable that is of a smaller gauge wire or has a connector that did not work as well. If the cable has any sort of electronics then it would also make a difference as the electronics could be doing power factor correction and that does make a difference to the amount of current the cable has to carry.
 
I've been experimenting with using #5 rebar for speaker and AC cable. My findings, so far:

It's difficult to attach Speakons or IEC connectors to 5/8" diameter steel rods.

Having the proper amount of rust build-up on the rebar improves the conductivity, perceived placement within the stereo field, sweetness in the low mids and upper treble, and erectile function.

Rebar that contains recycled radioactive watse sounds better than rebar containing recycled car parts. Recycled kitchen appliances fall somewhere in the middle.

Reversing the direction of just one of the bars after the electrons have been aligned causes a noticeable difference in low frequency content.

The coating on rebar used for highway construction signicantly reduces line noise in the 60Hz and 120Hz region. This means that the amplifier expends less energy cleaning up the line voltage, allowing more energy to be available at the output.
 
. . . I totally shouldn't have posted here. I'm of opinions and should keep them. . .
C'mon, Roy. Don't be dissuaded from sharing your opinions here. Especially since your last recording, track 11, was dedicated to the cables. . . Uh oh, my bad. . . That was "The Gables". . . Love that title track, by the way. Amen (corner)!

PS Love the "Simplicity" of your "one-string" bass playing. . .
 
C'mon, Roy. Don't be dissuaded from sharing your opinions here. Especially since your last recording, track 11, was dedicated to the cables. . . Uh oh, my bad. . . That was "The Gables". . . Love that title track, by the way. Amen (corner)!

PS Love the "Simplicity" of your "one-string" bass playing. . .

Arf, Arf, Arf!:D
 
There is always voltage drop over the span of any copper wire, but, voltage drop is probably not going to be the concern. The major consideration when choosing the correct gauge wire to use is the amount of amps the device will be pulling. Hence my earlier question of what type of amp was used during this test. I may be wrong, but wouldn’t a 300W SVT pull more amps than a GB Shuttle 3.0 (also 300 watts)? If so, wouldn’t the gauge/quality of the cable could make a difference.
 
time for the monkey wrench

I was on tour in Paris a few years back. We play big concert halls so the PA guys are pretty much as good as you can get.

The sound guy gives me a ($150) power cable to try. I figure it can't hurt. After sound check I a/b'd it with my cord. I was kindof shocked---it sounded noticeably better. It was the beginning of the tour and he said I could keep it until the end of the tour as we finished in Paris.

One day I spent two hours in the concert hall a/b ing the cable with a regular one. Bass impact was more powerful---the envelope was noticeably better. Not super profound but not subtle either. I bought it.

It has a small plastic box in line with some electronics in it. Supposedly it filters out junk. Maybe I'll send it to some expert here to see what's inside.

It is used extensively in recording studios in France. I don't have it handy---I actually don't use it regularly----too expensive! I'll find the name and post it.

Still, this is not surprising. I have a reasonable explanation for you. Just like in the stereo store, it is still voltage drop. You just have to know where to look.

Does a system for a big concert hall draw more current than my son's 15 Watt practice amp? Yes, a lot more. Then why should they use the same power cable?

This is just a generalization, but preamps are regulated, at least with a Zener. However, power amps aren't. They want to put out whatever the line voltage gives them. And what is that line voltage? In the US, is it 115 VAC, or is it 117, or is it 120, or 125? Are we having a brown out?

What does all of that do to your rail voltages?

And that was Paris. Was it 220 or 230. Is 220 really 215 or 240. Measure everything and you will figure it out.

I would bet that your rails changed by a few volts when you changed power cords. Double blind testing isn't necessary, just a volt meter on the rails. And a musician with a trained ear would detect that.

A voltage drop in the cable will affect unregulated rail voltage. End of story. Pick up a Newark catalog for reasonable priced cables.
 
time for the monkey wrench

I was on tour in Paris a few years back. We play big concert halls so the PA guys are pretty much as good as you can get.

The sound guy gives me a ($150) power cable to try. I figure it can't hurt. After sound check I a/b'd it with my cord. I was kindof shocked---it sounded noticeably better. It was the beginning of the tour and he said I could keep it until the end of the tour as we finished in Paris.

One day I spent two hours in the concert hall a/b ing the cable with a regular one. Bass impact was more powerful---the envelope was noticeably better. Not super profound but not subtle either. I bought it.

It has a small plastic box in line with some electronics in it. Supposedly it filters out junk. Maybe I'll send it to some expert here to see what's inside.

It is used extensively in recording studios in France. I don't have it handy---I actually don't use it regularly----too expensive! I'll find the name and post it.

Say it aint' so, Mike! I'm gonna rat you out to Greenboy :p
 
Would someone please tell me this. If these power cords and cables made such an audible difference (as some here have claimed) or even made any difference, then would it be safe to assume that the manufactures of these product market their products as sound improving technology?
 
IME there is probably a "small" noticeable difference when you compare the "cheapest" cord with the most expensive cord, for all of the middle it is UNNOTICEABLE, personally if someone made a GD cord that didn't kink up, I'd be happier with that!! (and i have used everything from Mogami, Monster, el cheapo, etc, they ALL freaking kink up.
 
I'm gonna take some jumper cables, what is that, 6 gauge or something, and run it direct to the main buss bars of my breaker box and connect the other ends to the power cord of my amp.

Wait, has anyone brought up the fact that one's amp has a power cord made just like a regular extension cord? Now I'll have to cut off the amps power cord, because it is now suspected to be just like an extension cord, and connect those jumper cables directly to the power supply transformer.

Or better yet, I'll make permanent soldered/welded connection with 4ga solid wire from the power pole outside directly to my amps transformer, bypassing the amps fuse/fuse holder and switch, as those are junk too.
 
IME there is probably a "small" noticeable difference when you compare the "cheapest" cord with the most expensive cord, for all of the middle it is UNNOTICEABLE, personally if someone made a GD cord that didn't kink up, I'd be happier with that!! (and i have used everything from Mogami, Monster, el cheapo, etc, they ALL freaking kink up.

What stopped wire kinking for me was taking care of cables.
 
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