- Jan 23, 2008
- 960
- 7
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Spector Basses
Looking good man! I've always wanted a electric bass with a scrolled headstock; I say go for it!
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Highschool woodshop build
- Thread starter ppk
- Start date
thanks. yea know what you mean everytime i see one of them old ampegs with the scroll headstock i get jealous. im just not sure how to go about carving ot and plotting out all the contours while keeping it symettrical.
wow amazing, much better then the bass i'm making in my wood class
doesn't compare to the pacman bass though
doesn't compare to the pacman bass though
heheh i still have that thing and it is epic!
I am on my second novelty build at the moment
thanks everyone. i got some more work done the headstock cut out and the neck is sexy smooth. the control cavities are carved out. i will have pictures up tonite maybe. but its been busy cause i only have till next friday to finish it in order to enter it into the MITES competition. but my problem is finding a catagory it fits in. i think sculpture and carving is close to what it is but im still not sure
This may already have been answered, but if you check out the hobby stores in your area most of them carry CF rods in 40" lengths (they use them for tail booms on RC helos). I did a bunch of checking on this, and it appears that round hollow rod is way stronger than just a beam. I got the .24 dia stuff, and it is working killer so far.
BTW, excellent job!!!
Stiffer, not stronger, and it depends entirely on the dimensions. A hollow rod of a given diameter will not be stiffer than a solid rod of the same diameter. A more accurate statement would be that a hollow rod has a higher stiffness-to-weight ratio than a solid rod -- the tradeoff is that you have to make the dimensions larger to achieve the same stiffness.
Asad
Exactly.
And, add to this, that if the rod is part of a larger beam (which it is), and is significantly off the composite beam's neutral axis, then use of a larger hollow rod or an equal-mass smaller solid rod would be functionally equivalent.
ok i gots some pictures, i used the drill press to hog out the headstock and used a chisle to even it all up afterwards. it worked really well with the chisle on one side but the grain was different on the other side of the inside pocket so it chipped out a little bit so ive been using these files that my dad had lying around that were perfect because of the teeth on it are very sharp and the ofset handle helped out alot.
I also did the control cavity on the drill press i didnt need to take much out because all im doing is a volume and input nothing fancy.
me working on the headstock
control cavity...
back of headstock
front of headstock (with nut)
back of bass body
I also did the control cavity on the drill press i didnt need to take much out because all im doing is a volume and input nothing fancy.
me working on the headstock
control cavity...
back of headstock
front of headstock (with nut)
back of bass body
My bass has to be done by tomarro morning and i still dont have any strings i think im just gona use earnie ball strings, i know there not long enough to where the string will get to the nut but they have enough exess to at least srting on the bass so it looks nice. also the bridge is held on by string pressure so i kinda nees strings. but earnie ball strings will only be temporary untill i get myself some proper strings for the extra long scale. i sont have any pictures this time because i havent had time to put ony on. my week has been very busy ive been up late every night working on the bass and tonite i dont think im gonna get any sleep i still have alot of work to be done.
also i found it alot more difficult to find a drill bit for the tuners i got it was betewwn 18 and 18 1/2 mm so my dad had to find me some odd size from work it was like 27/32 er somthing i cant remember.
but its all going petty good ill have pictures up this weekend after the contest.
thanks, Paul
also i found it alot more difficult to find a drill bit for the tuners i got it was betewwn 18 and 18 1/2 mm so my dad had to find me some odd size from work it was like 27/32 er somthing i cant remember.
but its all going petty good ill have pictures up this weekend after the contest.
thanks, Paul
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
HEY everyone well after my all nighter i got alot of work done and it was ready for the competition. i went on saturday to pick up my bass from the competition and to look at what i was up against. there was only one other guitar and heres a pic
anyone can do that
heres mine
i won first in my class which was carving and sculpture so i was excided, im going to the state competition next weekend and hopefully theres some good competition. there still is alot of work to be done. i still need strings. i slapped on some extra long scale strings from another project of mine and they still were wayy to short. the d string wouldent even reach. but i think i have a solution, my new bass teacher plays upright bass so im gonna ask him if he has any used strings i can buy off of him. also the pickup i bought and put in isnt wide enough i plugged it is with and the e and g are too quiet but the a is loud as hell (note these are the 3 strings that a quickly slapped on, not permanent strings) so now i need a new pickup. any suggestions?????? i was thinking kent armstrong becouse they are in 2 of my basses and they sound great and have a very wide coil that i know will work but, i want to see if there is a cheaper solution. also i need a way to mark the 3rd 5th 7th 9th 12 ect... frets i dont want lines or dots in the middle of the board cayse thats tacky i just want some side dots er somthing and im not exactly sure how to go about doing that. any suggestions?? other than that all is good the neck is straight and the trussrod is functional i just need to do some bridge and nut shaping and filing to get the right action.
thanks, Paul
anyone can do that
heres mine
i won first in my class which was carving and sculpture so i was excided, im going to the state competition next weekend and hopefully theres some good competition. there still is alot of work to be done. i still need strings. i slapped on some extra long scale strings from another project of mine and they still were wayy to short. the d string wouldent even reach. but i think i have a solution, my new bass teacher plays upright bass so im gonna ask him if he has any used strings i can buy off of him. also the pickup i bought and put in isnt wide enough i plugged it is with and the e and g are too quiet but the a is loud as hell (note these are the 3 strings that a quickly slapped on, not permanent strings) so now i need a new pickup. any suggestions?????? i was thinking kent armstrong becouse they are in 2 of my basses and they sound great and have a very wide coil that i know will work but, i want to see if there is a cheaper solution. also i need a way to mark the 3rd 5th 7th 9th 12 ect... frets i dont want lines or dots in the middle of the board cayse thats tacky i just want some side dots er somthing and im not exactly sure how to go about doing that. any suggestions?? other than that all is good the neck is straight and the trussrod is functional i just need to do some bridge and nut shaping and filing to get the right action.
thanks, Paul
If you want to keep it all wood, just get the smallest dowell stock you can find, get a drill bit to match, drill a shallow hole in the side of the fingerboard at the appropriate place use a dab of glue, insert dowell. Once it dries cut off excess and sand smooth.
