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Spector Club Part 6

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Sorry to break up the neck dive talk, but a page back I asked about changing the nut on my legend 4.

Any ideas, tips, good picks on nuts?

Sorry I didn't go back and read your previous posts again.

You want to replace your existing nut with a new one or do you want to change to brass?

In either event, you can get blanks at AllParts.com
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And you can use the diagram below to make your measurements for filing the blank to the correct size.

Be careful. If you go too far you've ruined the new nut and you have to start again.

Also, you can remove your old nut and use a set of digital measuring calipers to double check the measurements. Your Spector my vary slightly.

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THIS CAN BE A TRICKY PROCEDURE TO GET RIGHT.
Get it wrong and your bass will have a jacked-up action/string height.
If you have doubts, you may want to order a couple of blanks, or find a local Luthier that is qualified to make a custom brass nut for you (or graphite... whatever you're wanting to do).
 
I am helping a friend replace the jack on his legend with an EMG HZ P/J config. He bought this switchcraft stereo barrel jack and it does not work.

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It doesn't quite look like the jack from the bass since the orig on has 3 "pins" to solder three wires, where are the swtichcraft has 2 and then the long piece. Does the replacement jack have to be ordered by Spector?
 
I am helping a friend replace the jack on his legend with an EMG HZ P/J config. He bought this switchcraft stereo barrel jack and it does not work.

Invalid Link Removed

It doesn't quite look like the jack from the bass since the orig on has 3 "pins" to solder three wires, where are the swtichcraft has 2 and then the long piece. Does the replacement jack have to be ordered by Spector?
The three lug barrel jack is for a bass that has an active preamp. This acts as a switch for the preamp battery to shut on and off so it doesn't drain voltage.
 
Sorry I didn't go back and read your previous posts again.

You want to replace your existing nut with a new one or do you want to change to brass?

In either event, you can get blanks at AllParts.com
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

And you can use the diagram below to make your measurements for filing the blank to the correct size.

Be careful. If you go too far you've ruined the new nut and you have to start again.

Also, you can remove your old nut and use a set of digital measuring calipers to double check the measurements. Your Spector my vary slightly.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

THIS CAN BE A TRICKY PROCEDURE TO GET RIGHT.
Get it wrong and your bass will have a jacked-up action/string height.
If you have doubts, you may want to order a couple of blanks, or find a local Luthier that is qualified to make a custom brass nut for you (or graphite... whatever you're wanting to do).

Can the flat blanks be used on an NS-2A and tuned BEAD?
 
Can the flat blanks be used on an NS-2A and tuned BEAD?

I don't see why not. But you're going to have to figure out the string height.

The NS-2A has a wider nut than the Legend. At least mine does. I have a custom brass nut on my NS-2A... made from a brass nut blank.

It was custom-made by my local Luthier.

Another issue: going BEAD on a 34" is going to give you different string tension than BEAD on a 35"...

Just another thing to consider.

I'd find a good local luthier in your area and see what they'd charge you to make a custom nut.
 
Where can I try a Forte 4 and an NS-2 before committing to either? Is it possible anywhere?

Does Spector have a showroom in Saugerties? It would be worth a short trip for me from NYC.

Thanks, in advance, for any suggestions.

No, it's not open to the public. I'm pretty sure Stuart guides folks to/through his dealers.
I own the Forte 4, and it is just the most glorious bass I've ever owned.
-Mick
 
Did you get your Forte-4 with the original Aguilar OBP-2 preamp or did you upgrade to the USA 9-volt/HazLab option?

I got it with the Aggie OBP-3 as I wanted a 3 band with cut/boost mids. Worlds better than the OBP-2.. I had both. I'm running it now at 9v, but will wire it for 18v and see which I prefer. Cool thing is that I'll just have to wire another battery in series, the pre takes either or, no fuss.
I a/b'ed it with a buddies NS2 with the HazLab. The HazLab sounded fine, but the 3band Aggie clearly got the nod. I did all the research and comparisons before making this decision.

aggie_obp3.gif
 
That's really interesting. Any sounds clips? I'm curious as to its range of tone. I'd ideally like it to be able to get a Jamerson tone at the opposite end of the Spector growl. If that makes any sense.
 
That's really interesting. Any sounds clips? I'm curious as to its range of tone. I'd ideally like it to be able to get a Jamerson tone at the opposite end of the Spector growl. If that makes any sense.

I've done some nice recordings with it, but have the mixes not the clips of the bass alone. Even if I did, it's colored by the studio EQ's, comps, etc.
This is set up with EMG P/J p'ups, as well as the 3 band active pre. I'm sure depending on the amp you're using (I have a very aggressive tube pre and power amp.. 8 EL34's) you can get a wide variety of tone. I can get from Jamerson to Flea without touching my rig.... just from the tone pots. The pots are very sensitive too. You can completely change the sound with a small movement either way. The OBP-2 was nowhere near as diverse as the OBP-3. The range is extremely wide.

Where will you put the second battery?

I have a couple of choices here. It might not show in the picture, but I have (just) enough room to stack the two right where you see the single battery. I just need to replace the single clip with a double and wire in the second battery. I was also contemplating routing in a double battery box. For some reason the folks over at Spector advised against that. I'm not really sure why. They have routed in battery boxes in their NS4 series basses
 
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