Squier Classic Vibe 2019

[Yahboy]

View attachment 3408242

A new baby is coming home soon!

This CV bass look little weird.
Headstock and neck are china CV60P like, tuning peg look are little longer with round rod shape as previous one.
The bend bridge look like standard bridge on VM bass. Pick guard in black colour.
The most weird part are this CV bass come with 2 input jack !!!!
One on the pickguard and second one on body bottom right conner !!!!

What model of your CV P bass actually ????
A photoshop work ?

 

[Yahboy]

I tried new CV JB 70, black and natural models, against black VM JB 77. Running through Ampeg SVT.
VM sounded much better and had a nice jazz bass growl, both CVs sounded dull in comparison.

Only natural CV had fairly decent action from factory, other two needed some work.

Everything on VM 77 seemed ok.

There was a small chip on the fretboard on black CV 70. On natural CV 70 one of the knobs was a bit loose and there was some glue residue on the nut.

I preferred VM 77 soundwise and that’s where my money will go, although the new CVs do look a bit more sexy.

Once again, it proves that my ears have no problem. The pickups of the two are indeed different.

 

[Rallypoint_1]

The most weird part are this CV bass come with 2 input jack !!!!
One on the pickguard and second one on body bottom right conner !!!!

Maybe it uses the “Rick-o-sound” feature like a Rickenbacker!!LOL

 

[InstantEctobass]

This CV bass look little weird.
Headstock and neck are china CV60P like, tuning peg look are little longer with round rod shape as previous one.
The bend bridge look like standard bridge on VM bass. Pick guard in black colour.
The most weird part are this CV bass come with 2 input jack !!!!
One on the pickguard and second one on body bottom right conner !!!!

What model of your CV P bass actually ????
A photoshop work ?

It's Rickenbacker made! Stereo P bass!

...

You have a good eye. I forgot to erase the second input jack on Photoshop. I'll be having a FrankenSquier in my hands soon: Squier Affinity P-Bass body from 2012/2013 (Alder wood, Candy Apple Red finish, or 'Metallic Red', for us poor Squier buyers), and it comes with both the original neck (unattached) AND a Classic Vibe 60 PB neck from 2012. That's why the bridge is the normal sized vintage one (that I may replace with a Hi-Mass).

Hopefully I didn't buy some nasty parts... and hopefully the rosewood import will go well. (worried)

 

[RumbleMan3]

I think the new CVs are just a rebranded old VMs...

So what?

The VM's are fantastic, are they not?

 

[CallMeAl]

Dont know if this came up, but looks like STRATosphere has parts now:
LOADED Fender Squier Classic 60s P Bass BODY Precision Bass 3TS Sunburst | eBay

 

[InstantEctobass]

Dont know if this came up, but looks like STRATosphere has parts now:
LOADED Fender Squier Classic 60s P Bass BODY Precision Bass 3TS Sunburst | eBay

I saw that on eBay too! But as a fellow European guy, Stratosphere's shipping cost are too high. 48 USD for a pickguard? Come on... Just don't ship overseas if you don't wanna, but don't put a recoiling price.

 

[Texican]

I saw that on eBay too! But as a fellow European guy, Stratosphere's shipping cost are too high. 48 USD for a pickguard? Come on... Just don't ship overseas if you don't wanna, but don't put a recoiling price.

When I was stationed in England and Italy I was always amazed at how high shipping prices were... then I thought about trade in ancient times when whole groups of people were killed by pirates or disease just so some dork in a ruffled shirt could sip tea from the orient.

 

[Texican]

Dont know if this came up, but looks like STRATosphere has parts now:
LOADED Fender Squier Classic 60s P Bass BODY Precision Bass 3TS Sunburst | eBay

That’s pretty sweet, but I paid the same price for my complete CV60 Jazz Bass. I’d definitely jump on one of those though if I didn’t have my dealer discount.

 

[CallMeAl]

I saw that on eBay too! But as a fellow European guy, Stratosphere's shipping cost are too high. 48 USD for a pickguard? Come on... Just don't ship overseas if you don't wanna, but don't put a recoiling price.

I like to build a P bass/J neck. Even in the states that would cost me ~$450. So not very cost effective. I'm better off waiting for used, buy 2 whole basses and sell off the extras!

That’s pretty sweet, but I paid the same price for my complete CV60 Jazz Bass. I’d definitely jump on one of those though if I didn’t have my dealer discount.

 

[Texican]

Look what we got in the mail today! CV60’s P bass!!! I was excited to try it next to the Player P that hangs above my desk. My first observation was that the Squier was definitely setup better than the Player P... HOWEVER... the Squier was transferred from another store, which means it may have been setup by a tech prior to us receiving it.

Up close look at the finish, I have to give the win to the Player P, but I’m a sucker for the Sage Green Metallic (and the Squier was covered in some kind of packing material dust. The Player P looks like a *slighter* nicer instrument when you examine them up close, but it did not feel any “better” to me. Obviously this is subjective, YMMV, etc.

Soundwise I would call it an even tie based on my short playing comparison on a Fender Rumble 25 at my desk. A much longer evaluation may prove that one bass may have a preference for certain strings/tone knob setting/technique/etc., but all things considered I’d have to call them evenly matched tone-wise.

So which would I buy? Because I get an employee discount and I love the Sage Green, I’d probably get the Fender Player P. At regular price, I’d take the Squier. In fact I’d take the Squier over a different color Player P that I didn’t like as much as the Sage Green. That’s how close they were in my opinion.

DISCLAIMER: this is based on a “good specimen” Indonesian Classic Vibe. So far I have played 2 great ones, a decent one, and two dogs. Let’s hope they get the consistency nailed down on the new models.

 

[Mark Yurick]

View attachment 3410405 View attachment 3410406 View attachment 3410407 Look what we got in the mail today! CV60’s P bass!!! I was excited to try it next to the Player P that hangs above my desk. My first observation was that the Squier was definitely setup better than the Player P... HOWEVER... the Squier was transferred from another store, which means it may have been setup by a tech prior to us receiving it.

Up close look at the finish, I have to give the win to the Player P, but I’m a sucker for the Sage Green Metallic (and the Squier was covered in some kind of packing material dust. The Player P looks like a *slighter* nicer instrument when you examine them up close, but it did not feel any “better” to me. Obviously this is subjective, YMMV, etc.

Soundwise I would call it an even tie based on my short playing comparison on a Fender Rumble 25 at my desk. A much longer evaluation may prove that one bass may have a preference for certain strings/tone knob setting/technique/etc., but all things considered I’d have to call them evenly matched tone-wise.

So which would I buy? Because I get an employee discount and I love the Sage Green, I’d probably get the Fender Player P. At regular price, I’d take the Squier. In fact I’d take the Squier over a different color Player P that I didn’t like as much as the Sage Green. That’s how close they were in my opinion.

DISCLAIMER: this is based on a “good specimen” Indonesian Classic Vibe. So far I have played 2 great ones, a decent one, and two dogs. Let’s hope they get the consistency nailed down on the new models.

What did you think of the difference in the fret board material? I know a lot of folks on here don't care for pau ferro, but I happen to like it quite a bit. It feels like hard rosewood/soft ebony to me. Kind of in the middle. I really don't like indian laurel all that much, because it seems dry to me. I don't know whether it's actually dry, or just feels dry. I also have no idea whether there are different grades of indian laurel. I am not trying to step on anyone's toes or offend anyone, but if I had a choice between an indian laurel fret board and a pau ferro fret board, I would tend to go with pau ferro.

 

[InstantEctobass]

What did you think of the difference in the fret board material? I know a lot of folks on here don't care for pau ferro, but I happen to like it quite a bit. It feels like hard rosewood/soft ebony to me. Kind of in the middle. I really don't like indian laurel all that much, because it seems dry to me. I don't know whether it's actually dry, or just feels dry. I also have no idea whether there are different grades of indian laurel. I am not trying to step on anyone's toes or offend anyone, but if I had a choice between an indian laurel fret board and a pau ferro fret board, I would tend to go with pau ferro.

Thanks for your review/feedback; of course the Player is better for you; you had several new CV in your hands and consistency IS NOT there like the previous CV models... but Player series is not that consistent as well.

The fact that sound wise they're even doesn't surprise me. That's a good thing. And of course Pau Ferro, apart its colour and feel, is a better wood, a bit harder than rosewood if I remember well. I think that with the newly arrived Indian Laurel, they do not oil them out of factory, you have to do it. But that won't change the colour of laurel. You have to tint it if you wanted a darked look to it. Laurel always has an inconsistent grain and it's more poreous than rosewood. As far as I know!!

 

[Mark Yurick]

Thanks for your review/feedback; of course the Player is better for you; you had several new CV in your hands and consistency IS NOT there like the previous CV models... but Player series is not that consistent as well.

The fact that sound wise they're even doesn't surprise me. That's a good thing. And of course Pau Ferro, apart its colour and feel, is a better wood, a bit harder than rosewood if I remember well. I think that with the newly arrived Indian Laurel, they do not oil them out of factory, you have to do it. But that won't change the colour of laurel. You have to tint it if you wanted a darked look to it. Laurel always has an inconsistent grain and it's more poreous than rosewood. As far as I know!!

Yes. I agree with your comments. I wish they had made a 60s CV Precision with a maple fret board. I did buy a CV 60s Precision with an indian laurel neck and I like everything about it except the indian laurel fret board. Its' not awful, but I probably like it least of any fret board I've played. Can't really say why. I did treat the fret board with some NOMAD board conditioner, and that helped a little bit. I know Squier makes a Precision bass with a maple jazz looking neck, which I don't care for much. The I also have two 70s Jazz bass CVs, one in natural and the other in black. I like them but it seems odd to me that they are different body woods, the black being poplar and the natural soft maple. But, for the money very nice basses overall.

 

[Texican]

Thanks for your review/feedback; of course the Player is better for you; you had several new CV in your hands and consistency IS NOT there like the previous CV models... but Player series is not that consistent as well.

The fact that sound wise they're even doesn't surprise me. That's a good thing. And of course Pau Ferro, apart its colour and feel, is a better wood, a bit harder than rosewood if I remember well. I think that with the newly arrived Indian Laurel, they do not oil them out of factory, you have to do it. But that won't change the colour of laurel. You have to tint it if you wanted a darked look to it. Laurel always has an inconsistent grain and it's more poreous than rosewood. As far as I know!!

I believe you actually meant to quote me, so I’ll respond as such. The PF definitely looks like a higher quality wood than the IL, however I didn’t notice a difference in feel or sound. I will say this as far as consistency goes: aside from needing a set up for my particular preferences, every single player P bass that I’ve tried was a good specimen. However, I tried a Player J bass and was underwhelmed, especially next to the CV60 Jazz (that I ended up buying) and the used VM77 jazz (that I still might buy). Are you the guy that bought and returned multiple player series basses? I wonder if you just maybe don’t like them over all. Nothing wrong if that’s the case. Just seems more likely than you having the worst luck in the world with instruments.

 

[Texican]

What did you think of the difference in the fret board material? I know a lot of folks on here don't care for pau ferro, but I happen to like it quite a bit. It feels like hard rosewood/soft ebony to me. Kind of in the middle. I really don't like indian laurel all that much, because it seems dry to me. I don't know whether it's actually dry, or just feels dry. I also have no idea whether there are different grades of indian laurel. I am not trying to step on anyone's toes or offend anyone, but if I had a choice between an indian laurel fret board and a pau ferro fret board, I would tend to go with pau ferro.

Like I said to Ectobass, I guess I prefer the PF for aesthetics, but I found the difference in sound and feel to be negligible.

 

[Mark Yurick]

I believe you actually meant to quote me, so I’ll respond as such. The PF definitely looks like a higher quality wood than the IL, however I didn’t notice a difference in feel or sound. I will say this as far as consistency goes: aside from needing a set up for my particular preferences, every single player P bass that I’ve tried was a good specimen. However, I tried a Player J bass and was underwhelmed, especially next to the CV60 Jazz (that I ended up buying) and the used VM77 jazz (that I still might buy). Are you the guy that bought and returned multiple player series basses? I wonder if you just maybe don’t like them over all. Nothing wrong if that’s the case. Just seems more likely than you having the worst luck in the world with instruments.

Nope. I have a few players basses and like them a lot. I don't notice a difference in sound between indian laurel and rosewood, but I don't personally care for the feel. Maybe it just looks dry and I imagine it feels dry? I don't really know and I am a pretty bad head case about things like that. My favorite fret board material is ebony, which feels kinda chalky but very smooth to me. Next would be maple and then probably pau ferro. Indian laurel is one of my least favorites, along with jatoba. My favorite bass was an early 60s precision with a maple board with all of the lacquer worn off of the neck. It belonged to a studio that I did some recording in a very long time ago. That thing sounded perfect, although it was all analog at that point which I think sounded warmer generally. I also bought a couple of Dean Paramount basses, which are very like Precisions, and they have excellent necks and maple fret boards.

 

[InstantEctobass]

Yes. I agree with your comments. I wish they had made a 60s CV Precision with a maple fret board. I did buy a CV 60s Precision with an indian laurel neck and I like everything about it except the indian laurel fret board. Its' not awful, but I probably like it least of any fret board I've played. Can't really say why. I did treat the fret board with some NOMAD board conditioner, and that helped a little bit. I know Squier makes a Precision bass with a maple jazz looking neck, which I don't care for much. The I also have two 70s Jazz bass CVs, one in natural and the other in black. I like them but it seems odd to me that they are different body woods, the black being poplar and the natural soft maple. But, for the money very nice basses overall.

It wouldn't be a 60s. Rosewood/dark fingerboard dominated the 60s mostly a 50s or 70s if you wanted a maple neck! There's a 70s P with a Maple neck. More expensive, but quality is top notch. Try to apply dark chocolate tinting! I posted a link earlier about that Can you share your experiences about all your basses, or did I miss them? Thanks

I believe you actually meant to quote me, so I’ll respond as such. The PF definitely looks like a higher quality wood than the IL, however I didn’t notice a difference in feel or sound. I will say this as far as consistency goes: aside from needing a set up for my particular preferences, every single player P bass that I’ve tried was a good specimen. However, I tried a Player J bass and was underwhelmed, especially next to the CV60 Jazz (that I ended up buying) and the used VM77 jazz (that I still might buy). Are you the guy that bought and returned multiple player series basses? I wonder if you just maybe don’t like them over all. Nothing wrong if that’s the case. Just seems more likely than you having the worst luck in the world with instruments.

Like I said to Ectobass, I guess I prefer the PF for aesthetics, but I found the difference in sound and feel to be negligible.

Yes, they're about the same, tone wise. PF is said is be a little more stiffer. IL is near rosewood's game! I'm NOT the guy who bought multiple Players. @mbell75 is ! I only bought a 2019 CV 70 JB in natural finish and returned 5 minutes after I opened it.

Nope. I have a few players basses and like them a lot. I don't notice a difference in sound between indian laurel and rosewood, but I don't personally care for the feel. Maybe it just looks dry and I imagine it feels dry? I don't really know and I am a pretty bad head case about things like that. My favorite fret board material is ebony, which feels kinda chalky but very smooth to me. Next would be maple and then probably pau ferro. Indian laurel is one of my least favorites, along with jatoba. My favorite bass was an early 60s precision with a maple board with all of the lacquer worn off of the neck. It belonged to a studio that I did some recording in a very long time ago. That thing sounded perfect, although it was all analog at that point which I think sounded warmer generally. I also bought a couple of Dean Paramount basses, which are very like Precisions, and they have excellent necks and maple fret boards.

It looks dry because laurel's natural coulour is less saturated and shiny, that's it. But oiling any non glossy fingerboard is always a plus, at no risk. Tinting them is a solution. At a few risk, but mostly not. Jatoba is always very inconsistent, some are nice, other aren't.

 

[Mark Yurick]

It wouldn't be a 60s. Rosewood/dark fingerboard dominated the 60s mostly a 50s or 70s if you wanted a maple neck! There's a 70s P with a Maple neck. More expensive, but quality is top notch. Try to apply dark chocolate tinting! I posted a link earlier about that Can you share your experiences about all your basses, or did I miss them? Thanks




Yes, they're about the same, tone wise. PF is said is be a little more stiffer. IL is near rosewood's game! I'm NOT the guy who bought multiple Players. @mbell75 is ! I only bought a 2019 CV 70 JB in natural finish and returned 5 minutes after I opened it.




It looks dry because laurel's natural coulour is less saturated and shiny, that's it. But oiling any non glossy fingerboard is always a plus, at no risk. Tinting them is a solution. At a few risk, but mostly not. Jatoba is always very inconsistent, some are nice, other aren't.

Yes, I am pretty certain that a Fender Road worn 50s Precision would be about as close to my old favorite as you could get. I will have to spring for one of those at some point. As to my basses, I've got 3 Player Precisions , two Players Jazz basses, a couple of 70s CV's, a CV Precision, a 50's CV (tele looking?), about 6 Deans. Its' a lot! When I was younger you could not buy a decent bass for low money, it was Ricky, Fender and some Gibson's. An Alembic if you had a rich dad or were a successful drug dealer on the side. For the money, the Dean Paramount and Juggernaut are hard to beat on sale for $299. Made in Korea, and everything about them is pretty high end. Next would be the CV's. Really cool basses for not much money. I'll probably spring for the 50's Precision Bass, which looks pretty cool- but I was a little scared by the 7.25 inch neck radius. A CV 50's Precision with a maple board and a modern neck radius would probably be perfect. Either that, or I spring for an American Professional Precision with a maple board.

 

[InstantEctobass]

Yes, I am pretty certain that a Fender Road worn 50s Precision would be about as close to my old favorite as you could get. I will have to spring for one of those at some point. As to my basses, I've got 3 Player Precisions , two Players Jazz basses, a couple of 70s CV's, a CV Precision, a 50's CV (tele looking?), about 6 Deans. Its' a lot! When I was younger you could not buy a decent bass for low money, it was Ricky, Fender and some Gibson's. An Alembic if you had a rich dad or were a successful drug dealer on the side. For the money, the Dean Paramount and Juggernaut are hard to beat on sale for $299. Made in Korea, and everything about them is pretty high end. Next would be the CV's. Really cool basses for not much money. I'll probably spring for the 50's Precision Bass, which looks pretty cool- but I was a little scared by the 7.25 inch neck radius. A CV 50's Precision with a maple board and a modern neck radius would probably be perfect. Either that, or I spring for an American Professional Precision with a maple board.

Man, I swear: don't hesitate, buy today : https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PBassCV70Bk--squier-classic-vibe-p-bass-70s-black