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Squier Vintage Modified Precision V: who's got one?
- Thread starter Chef
- Start date
Setup tip for people in dryer climates: I went to adjust the shims on a couple of tuners that had too much play. The main screws on all the tuner posts were just loose enough that I had to retune after tightening.
Checked every screw on the instrument, and had to tighten about a dozen including a bridge screw. Also cranked the string retainer down a quarter turn on the bass side, to level it out.
Out of the box, this bass sounded a little indistinct, almost too fat compared to a neighbouring Am Standard 4-string. Now it hits a little harder, sounds brighter in the upper register, and the dead spot on the G string is less noticeable.
A cool tweak, that didn't cost me a penny.
Disclaimer: you don't get stainless screws and brass inserts on a $300 bass. Make sure that you have high-quality screwdrivers that fit each screw size tightly, back the screws off about a quarter-turn before snugging them down, and don't over-tighten. Otherwise, you can easily damage your new toy.
Checked every screw on the instrument, and had to tighten about a dozen including a bridge screw. Also cranked the string retainer down a quarter turn on the bass side, to level it out.
Out of the box, this bass sounded a little indistinct, almost too fat compared to a neighbouring Am Standard 4-string. Now it hits a little harder, sounds brighter in the upper register, and the dead spot on the G string is less noticeable.
A cool tweak, that didn't cost me a penny.
Disclaimer: you don't get stainless screws and brass inserts on a $300 bass. Make sure that you have high-quality screwdrivers that fit each screw size tightly, back the screws off about a quarter-turn before snugging them down, and don't over-tighten. Otherwise, you can easily damage your new toy.
Received a white P5 from Sweetwater today. Can't believe how good this thing sounds and plays for 300. There are some very minor finish flaws, and a fret way up on the d string that needs some love, but still a great sounding P that is very light weight with low action. Looking forward to using this on gigs.
Just a short break from my normal tech blither, to say that I spent yesterday afternoon learning new material for a Christmas concert on the Squier, and the evening pounding out the new tunes on my Dingwall.
The interesting thing is that the Dinger was within arm's reach all afternoon, but I felt like grooving on the P5. That's got to be some sort of complement to the Squier, given the nearly $2K difference in price.
The interesting thing is that the Dinger was within arm's reach all afternoon, but I felt like grooving on the P5. That's got to be some sort of complement to the Squier, given the nearly $2K difference in price.
Now that you mention it, I chose to keep my VMP5 at home after I adjusted the action as per my preference. My P5 gets 2 1/2 hours playing time at practice vs the 10 hours or so the VMP5 gets weekly.
If basses can be said to have personalities, the VMP5 is a great "lap bass". It currently sits out in the open near my desk, plugged into a G-K MB110 combo.
The Dingwall has major advantages as an all-round gigging instrument, but there's something carefree about noodling on the Squier while waiting for customer file transfers to complete, etc.
The Dingwall has major advantages as an all-round gigging instrument, but there's something carefree about noodling on the Squier while waiting for customer file transfers to complete, etc.
And so the madness starts. Just ordered a set of Hipshot Licensed Ultralites off the 'bay. We'll see what they do for the neck dive...
How much weight do they save, and what is the cost, these could get me well under 9 lbs (currently 9.2)? Truth-be-told I haven't noticed any serious neck dive though.
They would get you well under 9lb.
With the 1/2" post, they stack up like this:
- Mexi/VM tuners: 95gr
- Ultralite HB6C: 57gr
Translation: Lose nearly a half-pound (7.75oz). You still get the traditional cloverleaf head.
Unfortunately, if you're picky about appearances, you have to block-sand and then buff the back of the headstock, to hide the dents in the finish from the stock tuners, and then fill the extra screw holes. Some people also report having to either sand or shim the inside of the peg holes slightly, to adjust the fit.
Going with the "Y model" Ultralite with the gotoh-style head shaves another 8gr per tuner. Not worth it unless you like the look, as the additional weight saving is less than half an ounce for a set.
These weights are based on the US-made Ultralites. These have the advantage that they're reversible, which would be useful if you wanted to re-use them on other projects.
The Asian-made Licensed versions may or may not be + or - a fraction of an ounce in weight, and aren't reversible, so you have to specify whether you want 3 + 2, 4 + 1, or 5 in-line. The only place I could find them on the web, was from eBay seller sporthitech:
http://stores.ebay.com/sporthitech?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Sporthitech's pricing is pretty good: about $75 for a 5-string set of the licensed tuners, or $130 for the US version.
Only you can decide whether smoother tuning and the loss of a half-pound is worthy that kind of money. I normally wait until I'm sure I want to keep an instrument, before I invest in upgrades...
Cool. Thanks for the link. I didn't have a source for the Lic Hipshots.
I don't play my P5 out so I never play while standing up but sitting the balance is pretty good. I may buy some tuners though just because I feel like I have to do some sort of mod to this bass. I did order a set of the Labella white nylon tapes so we'll see how that works out.
I don't play my P5 out so I never play while standing up but sitting the balance is pretty good. I may buy some tuners though just because I feel like I have to do some sort of mod to this bass. I did order a set of the Labella white nylon tapes so we'll see how that works out.
Post a photo of that. I'm also considering DR whites.
I've established this is a keeper - it allows me to practice and gig with the same feeling bass, one less thing to deal with as I continue to try and contribute more vocally. Also, my thought is to put my P5 tuners on the VMP5 and use lighter tuners on the P5, which gets played much more standing, so any headstock reduction is appreciated (even though it balances fine as is).
I was looking, and I don't think so. The GB640's are a full-sized vintage replacement, so they won't fit the VM headstock. Also, they're about 2 ounces heavier than the Ultralites. Mojotone has the dimensions on their listing:
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
The GB528's are a downsized version, but everything from the bushing to the mounting screw holes are off at least a mm or two. Plus, they have a smaller 2-hole backing plate, so you've still got to either live with a bit of a mess on the back of the headstock, or start filling, sanding and buffing. In fact, there would actually be more hole filling, shimming, drilling and sanding involved than with the Hipshots, and they're still about half an ounce heavier than the Ultralites.
Mind you, I've always been a fan of the way Gotoh's work...
EDIT: I popped a tuner off my 3TS, and the finish actually looks pretty good underneath. A spot of wax filler in the old screw holes, and the Ultralites should look reasonably good without a lot of cosmetic work. Shim the bushing if needed (some people report that the Hipshot bushing is a touch undersized), and drill a hole for the single mounting screw...
Will do. I have found they are my new favorite string for fretless. Something about them feel and sound so right. I also had some on an SG and they were perfect for that bass.
The GB528's are really, really nice tuners. functionally I like them much better than the Hipshots. I don't like the price though. The Hipshots can feel a little grindy at times and often the feel changes under tension. The 528's are always super smooth.
The GB640's are nice tuners too and have a very fine gear ratio. As Steve said they are full size and not as light as the Hipshots. Whats really great, they are the same dimensions as the tuners on most of the Fender AVRI tuners. So you can mod one without drilling or patching any holes
Well, I put a set of Elixirs on my P5 last week and had another setup done. Picked up the bass Friday afternoon and the guitar tech said he had to "reef on the truss rod". Didn't mull over that a great deal but that night as the gig went on, it seemed that the action was a bit higher than I had originally had it set up, so the next day I saw the tech and asked him about what he meant by "reef on the truss rod"...he said it was difficult to turn it just a little bit, that was all. And that night I realized that the action hadn't been too high at all, the string heights were "aligned" with the curvature of the maple fingerboard just right. As far as the Elixir stings are concerned, I've never before had them produce as phat a tone as they did on the P5.
Fitted a set of DR Dragonskins tonight.
Nice improvement in tone, B string sounds more defined, and picked up some extra growl.
No change in the dead spot on the G string. With the rest of the setup exactly the way I want it, the B and C# are pretty much unaffected, but the C is as dead as a doornail. Must be a pretty bad resonance, as it affects the C at the 10th fret on the D string as well. My least favourite type of dead spot, too, where the fundamental falls off faster than the octave harmonic.
Will have to mess around with some mods, to see if I can reduce it, or at least shift it to a place where it's less noticeable.
Nice improvement in tone, B string sounds more defined, and picked up some extra growl.
No change in the dead spot on the G string. With the rest of the setup exactly the way I want it, the B and C# are pretty much unaffected, but the C is as dead as a doornail. Must be a pretty bad resonance, as it affects the C at the 10th fret on the D string as well. My least favourite type of dead spot, too, where the fundamental falls off faster than the octave harmonic.
Will have to mess around with some mods, to see if I can reduce it, or at least shift it to a place where it's less noticeable.
Sweetwater did a great job setting it up for me. Relief was set well, nut was cut properly, and the action was spot on. I tightened all the screws and installed a set of High Beams. I will be gigging with it tonight. It will be quite a departure from my fancy Fishbone basses, but a guy deserves some variety.
Sorry to hear about that, I won't keep a bass with that issue. Most VMP5 owners aren't reporting dead spot problems.
Some are just accustomed to dead spots (like myself) and don't find them particularly damageable...
I don't think I have any dead spots but before I changed out the stock strings I thought the third fret on the A was a bit quieter than most. Seems to be good now.
