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Stoner/Doom Bassists Thread, Part 90: Maxed Out

Just got my Genz Benz Shuttlemax 12.2 shipped in. First impressions: as I suspected, it’s not my ideal choice for doom out of the box though it’s taking pedals well (but 1200W is enough power to make it work regardless). It can work very well in a stoner/psychedelic context when dialed in right on the tube channel. However, this thing does everything else very very very well and all my basses sound like themselves through it.

And, by sheer chance, I have a cheap Peavey Musician 400GH on the way. Should work well as others have testified but I will look into an EQ mod to get a 50hz band activated if it isn’t too much trouble. That or run an EQ from pre-out. If y’all know where to find an original automixer footswitch then I’m all ears.
 
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And, by sheer chance, I have a cheap Peavey Musician 400GH on the way.

I have one of those. It's pretty great on bass, it'll do on guitar, but it's not the best SS guitar amp. I have a non-working Series 300 Bass amp. It's got the cool plexi face plate, but mine doesn't have the fuzz. If it did, I'm sure I'd have fixed it by now. It's a thin kind of fuzz, but still pretty good. I had and sold a Series 400 bass with the aluminum face plate years ago, one of about 5 items I'm really sad I sold out of about 8 in my lifetime.

Fun fact about those: The front panel is the preamp, and the back panel is the power amp. I've never looked into whether you can plug a series 300 pre into a Series 400 power amp.
 
I have one of those. It's pretty great on bass, it'll do on guitar, but it's not the best SS guitar amp. I have a non-working Series 300 Bass amp. It's got the cool plexi face plate, but mine doesn't have the fuzz. If it did, I'm sure I'd have fixed it by now. It's a thin kind of fuzz, but still pretty good. I had and sold a Series 400 bass with the aluminum face plate years ago, one of about 5 items I'm really sad I sold out of about 8 in my lifetime.

Fun fact about those: The front panel is the preamp, and the back panel is the power amp. I've never looked into whether you can plug a series 300 pre into a Series 400 power amp.

I never realized that those amps were set up that way. Either way, this amp will get used for drive tones irregularly when it’s called for.
 
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So first off I made a last minute decision before todays practice to switch to D standard instead of E standard with a hipshot to drop D. I ran out and the only 110s the local store had were Ernie Balls, XLs and NYXLs. I’ve only broken strings twice and both times were EBs so I don’t trust those and XLs are meh so I tried the NYXLs. I prefer flats but was pleasantly surprised by them. They had a little round wound growl but not too much. Nice strings and I’m going to give them a go for a bit.

Onto the main question, I use a Boss tuner to split my signal to a guitar amp and be able to toggle the guitar amped signal off while the bass signal is always on through the bypass. Next to that is a Joyo phaser. I need to toggle them simultaneously and it’s hit or miss whether I get them because of the different types of switches. Any suggestions for a replacement for either to get them to the same form factor so it’s easier to hit the at the same time?
 
Heh, while poking around looking to see if you can Frankenstein a Series 400/300 pre in any way, I found this TB thread that has a schematic of the 7-pin foot switch.
*Vintage Peavey Experts * Musician 400 Series Questions

Thanks for the info! Though I just got lucky and snagged a 4 button musician footswitch with the matching “phase” button that aligns with the phaser on the head I bought. eBay for the win, for a change.
 
So first off I made a last minute decision before todays practice to switch to D standard instead of E standard with a hipshot to drop D. I ran out and the only 110s the local store had were Ernie Balls, XLs and NYXLs. I’ve only broken strings twice and both times were EBs so I don’t trust those and XLs are meh so I tried the NYXLs. I prefer flats but was pleasantly surprised by them. They had a little round wound growl but not too much. Nice strings and I’m going to give them a go for a bit.

Onto the main question, I use a Boss tuner to split my signal to a guitar amp and be able to toggle the guitar amped signal off while the bass signal is always on through the bypass. Next to that is a Joyo phaser. I need to toggle them simultaneously and it’s hit or miss whether I get them because of the different types of switches. Any suggestions for a replacement for either to get them to the same form factor so it’s easier to hit the at the same time?

I just use an ABY and put it in the first row, that way you can do either or, or both and it has no knobs so you can step on it with your heel while stepping on another pedal.

I'll see if I got a pic.
 
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I just use an ABY and put it in the first row, that way you can do either or, or both and it has no knobs so you can step on it with your heel while stepping on another pedal.

I'll see if I got a pic.
I did that at one point but was hoping to save space since those tend to be a little large. Although since those are passive anyway I can probably wire something up that won’t tone suck.
 
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I'm happy with the new setup. The Rattler is great!

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I have one of those. It's pretty great on bass, it'll do on guitar, but it's not the best SS guitar amp. I have a non-working Series 300 Bass amp. It's got the cool plexi face plate, but mine doesn't have the fuzz. If it did, I'm sure I'd have fixed it by now. It's a thin kind of fuzz, but still pretty good. I had and sold a Series 400 bass with the aluminum face plate years ago, one of about 5 items I'm really sad I sold out of about 8 in my lifetime.

Fun fact about those: The front panel is the preamp, and the back panel is the power amp. I've never looked into whether you can plug a series 300 pre into a Series 400 power amp.

And for the record, the one I got is the version with the phaser that can run 300W->4 ohm. I played it for the first time today and it’s aggressive in all the right ways. One of better cheap buys that I have ever made. For something marketed as a guitar head, it’s a killer bass amp for heavier styles.
 
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So, I record most of our practices on a handheld recorder. The drummer liked the version of Nilsson's "Jump Into the Fire" that we did last week enough that he wanted to post it on FB. He couldn't figure out a convenient method to post it without it being published elsewhere. I happened to already have a nicely altered video of fire in a domestic setting, which seemed entirely appropriate. So I obliged him and made a video out of it. For a practice recording of a cover song coupled with an experiment I did of running video through audio effects, I'm pretty happy with it.

 
Hmm, I'm actually not familiar with that one. Even the Mark III with the phaser and the plastic knobs seems to do 210 at 4 ohms, and 300 at 2. Got a pic of this beast?

My bad on that, it’s 210->8 ohms. The back panel lists 300W/4 ohm min, but the manual lists what you mentioned. The individual jack minimum is 4 ohms, which is what is implied on the back panel. Either way, I was confused on that one for a minute.
 
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@Kawai2g4b would love to see pics though. I don't think I've ever seen one with the phaser, only the trem and verb, fuzz, etc.

I did that at one point but was hoping to save space since those tend to be a little large. Although since those are passive anyway I can probably wire something up that won’t tone suck.

I'll find a pic, but ehx, and old blood noise, among others make em in small 1590B enclosures. Work great in my experience, but I totally understand. I have never had issues with phase problems, but it is something to be aware of a potential issues if sound seems weird when combining both signals. Hence why phase inversion is on some modern stereo split pedals.
 
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@Kawai2g4b would love to see pics though. I don't think I've ever seen one with the phaser, only the trem and verb, fuzz, etc.

Your wish is my command. And I figured that I would upload the other heads as well.

One note with the phaser: it’s quite full and will shape the tone greatly, which makes great sense with a guitar but can take out the low end of a bass signal. The trick is to plug into the automix input, use the phaser on the top channel, then blend in the non-effected second channel to maintain the low end. After that, apply preamp gain to the preferred channels
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Well, PureSalem refunded the case purchase for my bass. In their defense, even though it was a suggested accessory, it didn't really look like that bass would fit in the pictured case. I don't have measurements yet, but it seems to look like a pretty big bass. 34" scale, and there's the protrusion on the end that looks like it might compete with the ThunderChicken a bit in overall length, even if it doesn't have the ridiculous headstock.

So, anyone have a favorite square case mfr. that they use? Maybe someone who owns a FenderBird? I'd consider a gig bag, but it seems finding one that might fit it could be a..umm..stretch.
 
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T-bird case, maybe modified? I still have a couple of Epiphone cases from the Fenderbirds I made. They dwarf all the other cases in my vault. When I first started out I had an Aria Pro II case (for a Lotus bass) that was pretty huge.

I'm down to a single F-bird and could stand to lose a case or 2 if you wanted to pay ridiculous shipping from the w. coast.