Whatever that dark wood is on the wings of the headstock is beatiful. Would be nice if that was worked into part of the body somehow, too. I've never been a big natural finish fan but these MG Rics you guys have are crazy sweet looking.
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Thanks! I found a thread about CR on RickResource, too.
Yes! I thought the wings' grain had a maple-ish appearance to them. Definitely not porous like walnut, and not as figured; but beautiful, nontheless.
Here is a cool video:
Rickenbacker Factory Tour: Model 330 Guitar & Model Bass Construction - YouTube
I'm guessing the fretboard is not the bubinga RIC has been using for ages, but the Caribbean Rosewood they are using now. Also the headstock wings don't look like walnut but the rectified maple RIC tried out for a short while.
A little late but Pickguardian has the same material RIC uses for the inlays. That would look good with the dark blue.
I posted this question on Rick Resource, but no responses thus far.
My beloved 4001C64 is suffering from moderate tail lift (about 1/4" without string tension, and about 1/2" with string tension). I have the Hipshot bridge installed on my 4003, and while I am happy with that bridge on that particular bass, I want to keep the vintage vibe & asthetic of my C64 intact.
I'm looking for advice on the correct procedure for straightening the factory tailpiece & performing the 7-screw tailpiece modification. Any advice on tools, materials and procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
My beloved 4001C64 is suffering from moderate tail lift (about 1/4" without string tension, and about 1/2" with string tension). I have the Hipshot bridge installed on my 4003, and while I am happy with that bridge on that particular bass, I want to keep the vintage vibe & asthetic of my C64 intact.
I'm looking for advice on the correct procedure for straightening the factory tailpiece & performing the 7-screw tailpiece modification. Any advice on tools, materials and procedures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Since the C64 tailpiece is only a 3 screw one, if it were me I'd take it off, put it upside down on a piece of pine wood, use clamps to get it straight, then when it is again flat use it to figure out the gap between the bottom of the tailpiece where the 3 screws go and the maple in the bottom of the rout and fill it in with a piece of maple or with flat washers. When the three screws are tightened and there is that gap, it will draw the metal into the too-deep rout and the end lifts up. Filling that gap should stop that.
I had a pickguard made from this material by Tony in 2008 for my former JG May '08 4003, in a '60s vintage shape; it looks really great!
I took the bass to him for a vintage style white pickguard, and he told me that he had stock that was the same as the inlays, so I had Tony make two pickguards, one white, one in the swirly pearloid.
Yep my serial number is 11-393**, its awesome to know my bass has family so close to it on this board, mine is just spectacular , it BLOWS away the MID ric 4003 i owned made in 3/2011.
I was just playing my ric and each time i play it i love that thing , i went from 10 basses to now only having 4 1/2sicne getting it.
I bought a Ric 4003 FG 3 months ago. Production Date is July 2011 and Serial No is 1128325. Last week, to my dismay, the wood around the guitar strap metal holder at the neckside started to crack, and the 3 cracks got worst over the week. Are there anyone out there who had the same problem, and how to rectify? Problem is - I am writing from Singapore. No Ric dealer here. Had been a long time Ric fan since school days, and when I finally decided to buy one, I really do not expect this to happen for a high end bass guitar. Any advice is appreciated.
Got to take a few pictures before the winter totally sets in though it was only in the 20's....
MF MID blue and older burgundy glow.
fretboards
check out the slight body differences.
Jaymi - not sure if i have a number anymore???
MF MID blue and older burgundy glow.
fretboards
check out the slight body differences.
Jaymi - not sure if i have a number anymore???
Got to take a few pictures before the winter totally sets in though it was only in the 20's....
MF MID blue and older burgundy glow.
fretboards
check out the slight body differences.
Jaymi - not sure if i have a number anymore???
It looks like the newer ones are slimmer all around.
Hey does anyone know if there's a list of setup specs for Rickenbackers anywhere?
I'm mainly looking for sting and pickup heights. Thanks in advance!
I'm mainly looking for sting and pickup heights. Thanks in advance!
Yep- horns have been slimmed down, and the entire 'cresting wave' between the body horns has been brought down one more fret. Perhaps a move to create a more contemporary look?
Actually I heard that the new body shape is more like the really really old ones. Don't quote me on that, though, I'm not sure where I heard it.
Ric5
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- Jan 29, 2008
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Went to a jazz jam today, brought my 4003. Always an attention-getter (which isn't so good since my skills don't measure up to the coolness of my instrument). With the amp eq'd bass-heavy, it takes out most of the clank, but the growl still comes through and it sounds great.
I had a 1991 4003 , after owning 3 of the newer ones from 2011 and i sold the '91 within a few weeks of owning it , i like the looks of the newer rics so much more with that slender body and full width inlays
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