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The Soundgear Club

Quick question for the group - has anyone replaced a monorail bridge with something more traditional? I want to try different strings and tunings, and the monorail is a PITA. I'm thinking of a hipshot, as I can get the 16.5mm spacing. This is an SR3005 or 3005e, if that makes a difference.
Thanks!
0409231120.jpg
0409231120a.jpg
 
Quick question for the group - has anyone replaced a monorail bridge with something more traditional? I want to try different strings and tunings, and the monorail is a PITA. I'm thinking of a hipshot, as I can get the 16.5mm spacing. This is an SR3005 or 3005e, if that makes a difference.
Thanks!View attachment 5025994 View attachment 5025995

What's the current spacing center-to-center? No variable spacing? It's do-able but you may want to consider crafting veneer inlays for the now-vacant monorail footprints. The lowermost aspect will probably be visible as the HipShot baseplate won't cover the existing footprint.

Riis
 
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16.5. The monorail is not adjustable side to side, the Hipshot has a slight amount of adjustability. I'm currently thinking of having a luthier route out the entire section and place a block of wood in the void. Just wondering if anyone else has done it I'm likely going to re-finish the bass anyways.

The only part of this bass that is still original are the bridge rails, tuners, and body. The neck has been replaced (I was a dumb, broke kid and defretted the original) and replaced the Bartolinis with EMGs. I want to try flatwounds tuned E-C, and maybe a piccolo tuning, but not with this bridge. Tuning adjustments just take too long.
 
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.

The only part of this bass that is still original are the bridge rails, tuners, and body. The neck has been replaced (I was a dumb, broke kid and defretted the original) and replaced the Bartolinis with EMGs. I want to try flatwounds tuned E-C, and maybe a piccolo tuning, but not with this bridge. Tuning adjustments just take too long.

If you've got the desired spacing, I'd leave well-enough alone. By tuning adjustment, do you mean height & intonation? I've had no problems with my monorails although they are of a slightly different design.

Riis
 
Quick question for the group - has anyone replaced a monorail bridge with something more traditional? I want to try different strings and tunings, and the monorail is a PITA. I'm thinking of a hipshot, as I can get the 16.5mm spacing. This is an SR3005 or 3005e, if that makes a difference.
Thanks!View attachment 5025994 View attachment 5025995

I would just buy a Digitek Drop pedal and save yourself the headache.
 
If you've got the desired spacing, I'd leave well-enough alone. By tuning adjustment, do you mean height & intonation? I've had no problems with my monorails although they are of a slightly different design.

Riis
Exactly. Compared to any other bridge, height and intonation are non-trivial. Intonation especially.

I would just buy a Digitek Drop pedal and save yourself the headache.

Can't see how a pedal would replicate the feel or sounds of flatwounds or a tapered B string.
 
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Exactly. Compared to any other bridge, height and intonation are non-trivial. Intonation especially.



Can't see how a pedal would replicate the feel or sounds of flatwounds or a tapered B string.

My monorails have a lockdown but blessed with a conventional screw on the backside. How do yours function?

If the tuners are staggered / offset, I'd avoid the tapered strings...I had problems.

Monorails.jpg
 
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My monorails have a lockdown but blessed with a conventional screw on the backside. How do yours function?

If the tuners are staggered / offset, I'd avoid the tapered strings...I had problems.

View attachment 5026372

This thread does a pretty good job explaining it - Ibanez Prestige Mono-rail bridge

Basically, check intonation, loosen string, loosen allen screws, manually move bridge, hope you got it in the right spot, tighten allen screws, tune to pitch, check intonation. Note that there is not a conventional screw on these bridges for intonation! You have to move the saddles manually.
 
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This thread does a pretty good job explaining it - Ibanez Prestige Mono-rail bridge

Basically, check intonation, loosen string, loosen allen screws, manually move bridge, hope you got it in the right spot, tighten allen screws, tune to pitch, check intonation. Note that there is not a conventional screw on these bridges for intonation! You have to move the saddles manually.

Gotcha. I have a Gotoh bridge which (in part) shares the same design: the lock-down falls beneath the string and is less-than-accessible. Short cut: once the lock-down is loosened, don't re-tighten but do tune the string back to pitch. There should be enough give to 'n fro to allow finer tweaking of the intonation. I use a chopstick and small mallet. Once dial'd in to spec, hold the saddle in position, slacken the string, and re-tighten the lock down.

Riis
 
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Hey team - seeking some advice on bass value. I have an SR Premium 1205E that I bought new in 2015 (serial number dates it as Dec 2014 manufacture). I'm struggling to find any recent sales data on Reverb etc (it might be my search skills...) and as it's not a current model, wondering if you'd all hazard a guess on value.

It's in great condition (has been my backup bass so not gigged a lot) - a few little dings etc as you'd expect, electronics recently serviced, new strings etc. I changed out the gold hardware (tuners / bridge / strap pins) for Cosmo black (monorail bridge from Ibanez, Gotoh GB350 tuners, Straplock Dual design) - I also have the gold hardware that I'd sell with the bass.

Here's a photo - any thoughts on value (in USD)?
Ibanez2.jpg
 
I finally gave in to the temptation of a fanned fret Soundgear - I've never owned a fanned fret instrument before, but I know multi-scale basses have become quite popular the last few years. I'd always admired the SRMS model from afar, but finally decided to give it a shot. And WOW - glad I did! I think I finally understand the hoopla about multiscale instruments. Of course, the B is fantastic on a multi-scale bass (and everyone always talks about that the most) but not much mention on how clear the notes on the other strings speak too. It's incredibly easy to play and sets up with a very low action. This thing sounds great! :bassist:

SRMS805
:

Ibanez-SRMS805-1.jpg

Beautiful! Congrats :thumbsup:


That's one bass that's on my (very) short list of basses I'd love to have. The only new one on the list......


I've finally bought one of these! :hyper:











Well, something somewhat similar, I suppose.....:unsure:



20230415_062510.jpg



One of the oldest Soundgear 5-string basses (1989 sr885le) and one of the newest (2022 srms625ex)


They look (and play!) pretty similar, but there are a number of differences outside of the pickups/electronics and crooked frets.
Most are pretty subtle, and not really noticable without comparing them side-by-side, like the way the back body is curved at the neck joint.....some are not, like the headstock.


I know weight is a big thing here on TB, and I'll admit, it is something I pay attention to, but isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
The old black 885, which is 7 3/4 lbs. at last weigh, is literally the lightest bass I've ever owned, outside of an Ibanez acoustic bass - noticably lighter than even my other sr885le.
The new Ironlabel 5 comes in at 9.25 lbs., per the shop/seller. I've not weighed it yet, but that feels pretty close - comparable to the other SRs, and most of the Thunderbirds, I've had, and is completely acceptable (to me, at least).


Other than the action being high enough to shove a pencil under (6mm on B-string, 4mm on G-string - I don't know if that should be :facepalm: or :jawdrop: ), the intonation being not really even close, and the truss rod needing a bit of a tweak (3/4 turn? -ish?), I'm really liking how it plays & sounds so far :thumbsup:









:)
 
I've finally bought one of these! :hyper:











Well, something somewhat similar, I suppose.....:unsure:



View attachment 5031905


One of the oldest Soundgear 5-string basses (1989 sr885le) and one of the newest (2022 srms625ex)


They look (and play!) pretty similar, but there are a number of differences outside of the pickups/electronics and crooked frets.
Most are pretty subtle, and not really noticable without comparing them side-by-side, like the way the back body is curved at the neck joint.....some are not, like the headstock.


I know weight is a big thing here on TB, and I'll admit, it is something I pay attention to, but isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
The old black 885, which is 7 3/4 lbs. at last weigh, is literally the lightest bass I've ever owned, outside of an Ibanez acoustic bass - noticably lighter than even my other sr885le.
The new Ironlabel 5 comes in at 9.25 lbs., per the shop/seller. I've not weighed it yet, but that feels pretty close - comparable to the other SRs, and most of the Thunderbirds, I've had, and is completely acceptable (to me, at least).


Other than the action being high enough to shove a pencil under (6mm on B-string, 4mm on G-string - I don't know if that should be :facepalm: or :jawdrop: ), the intonation being not really even close, and the truss rod needing a bit of a tweak (3/4 turn? -ish?), I'm really liking how it plays & sounds so far :thumbsup:









:)

Nice! Huge Congrats! :hyper::bassist:

I had no idea this model was out there. Looks pretty on par with the SRMS, even down to the pickups. Minus a couple aesthetic & wood differences of course.

Mine came with some fairly high action - to the point I was a little concerned about it. Probably due to floating around on a shipping container off the West Coast would be my guess. Once I got into it & started setting it up there was no reason for concern. It set up like a dream (like my other Ibanez basses have always done). Hope yours does too!

I hope you dig the Multi-Scale - the definition of the B and all the other strings is quite noticeable! I gotta say, if I had a choice - I think all future basses I purchase would be multi-scale if I can help it.

Also, don't forget you can experiment with the on-board preamp voicing. It's easy to do and gives you a couple of voicing options to choose between.

Again, huge congrats! I'm digging it! :thumbsup:
 
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I've finally bought one of these! :hyper:











Well, something somewhat similar, I suppose.....:unsure:



View attachment 5031905


One of the oldest Soundgear 5-string basses (1989 sr885le) and one of the newest (2022 srms625ex)


They look (and play!) pretty similar, but there are a number of differences outside of the pickups/electronics and crooked frets.
Most are pretty subtle, and not really noticable without comparing them side-by-side, like the way the back body is curved at the neck joint.....some are not, like the headstock.


I know weight is a big thing here on TB, and I'll admit, it is something I pay attention to, but isn't necessarily a deal breaker.
The old black 885, which is 7 3/4 lbs. at last weigh, is literally the lightest bass I've ever owned, outside of an Ibanez acoustic bass - noticably lighter than even my other sr885le.
The new Ironlabel 5 comes in at 9.25 lbs., per the shop/seller. I've not weighed it yet, but that feels pretty close - comparable to the other SRs, and most of the Thunderbirds, I've had, and is completely acceptable (to me, at least).


Other than the action being high enough to shove a pencil under (6mm on B-string, 4mm on G-string - I don't know if that should be :facepalm: or :jawdrop: ), the intonation being not really even close, and the truss rod needing a bit of a tweak (3/4 turn? -ish?), I'm really liking how it plays & sounds so far :thumbsup:









:)
I almost bought that iron label but went
Hey team - seeking some advice on bass value. I have an SR Premium 1205E that I bought new in 2015 (serial number dates it as Dec 2014 manufacture). I'm struggling to find any recent sales data on Reverb etc (it might be my search skills...) and as it's not a current model, wondering if you'd all hazard a guess on value.

It's in great condition (has been my backup bass so not gigged a lot) - a few little dings etc as you'd expect, electronics recently serviced, new strings etc. I changed out the gold hardware (tuners / bridge / strap pins) for Cosmo black (monorail bridge from Ibanez, Gotoh GB350 tuners, Straplock Dual design) - I also have the gold hardware that I'd sell with the bass.

Here's a photo - any thoughts on value (in USD)?
View attachment 5026592
From what I found online they are going for $650ish. But that is just from a quick Google search.
 
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Nice! Huge Congrats! :hyper::bassist:

I had no idea this model was out there. Looks pretty on par with the SRMS, even down to the pickups. Minus a couple aesthetic & wood differences of course.

Mine came with some fairly high action - to the point I was a little concerned about it. Probably due to floating around on a shipping container off the West Coast would be my guess. Once I got into it & started setting it up there was no reason for concern. It set up like a dream (like my other Ibanez basses have always done). Hope yours does too!

I hope you dig the Multi-Scale - the definition of the B and all the other strings is quite noticeable! I gotta say, if I had a choice - I think all future basses would be multi-scale if I can help it.

Also, don't forget you can experiment with the on-board preamp voicing. It's easy to do and gives you a couple of voicing options to choose between.

Again, huge congrats! I'm digging it! :thumbsup:


Thanks! :thumbsup:

Mine came from a shop in FL that inspected before shipping, and the box for "optimal string height" was checked.....:roflmao:
It was over twice what the manual calls for :rollno:

Setup went well though, once I leveled the neck out a bit with the truss rod, the intonation came into line.
Dropped the G & B saddles far enough that I had to lower the bridge pickup slightly, giving just a light amount of fret buzz, then used a radius gauge to set the other three; that got it really close, just a bit of fine tuning and tweaking from there, and it's pretty spot on.

Gonna give it some days to settle some more, then revisit the neck relief & action, see where it's at.


It is essentially the same as the ms805, apparently the same pickups/electronics package but as you said, with a few differences.

  1. Body-wood is the same, Okoume, but doesn't have the fancy Poplar Burl top - so no need for see-through paint.
  2. Neck is still 5-piece, but Maple/Walnut, instead of Jatoba/Walnut.
  3. Fretboard is Ebonol, instead of Panga Panga, and has no inlays.
  4. The bridge is the MR5, instead of the MR5S; apparently the only difference is the "S" version has width-adjustable saddles.
  5. Oh, and it looks like the knobs are different?


I'm loving the multi-scale so far, the only real-ish issue at this point is the stretch on the lower frets, to get from, say, F on E-string to Eb on B-string, is more than what I'm used to with straight frets, but seems totally do-able with a bit of practice.
I also noticed, if I look down at the frets when the bass is in playing position on my lap, the frets *look* straight ......



Thanks for the info about the pre-amp voicing! Didn't know that was an option, I'll check into & do some experimenting when I get the chance :thumbsup:
 
Thanks! :thumbsup:

Mine came from a shop in FL that inspected before shipping, and the box for "optimal string height" was checked.....:roflmao:
It was over twice what the manual calls for :rollno:

Setup went well though, once I leveled the neck out a bit with the truss rod, the intonation came into line.
Dropped the G & B saddles far enough that I had to lower the bridge pickup slightly, giving just a light amount of fret buzz, then used a radius gauge to set the other three; that got it really close, just a bit of fine tuning and tweaking from there, and it's pretty spot on.

Gonna give it some days to settle some more, then revisit the neck relief & action, see where it's at.


It is essentially the same as the ms805, apparently the same pickups/electronics package but as you said, with a few differences.

  1. Body-wood is the same, Okoume, but doesn't have the fancy Poplar Burl top - so no need for see-through paint.
  2. Neck is still 5-piece, but Maple/Walnut, instead of Jatoba/Walnut.
  3. Fretboard is Ebonol, instead of Panga Panga, and has no inlays.
  4. The bridge is the MR5, instead of the MR5S; apparently the only difference is the "S" version has width-adjustable saddles.
  5. Oh, and it looks like the knobs are different?


I'm loving the multi-scale so far, the only real-ish issue at this point is the stretch on the lower frets, to get from, say, F on E-string to Eb on B-string, is more than what I'm used to with straight frets, but seems totally do-able with a bit of practice.
I also noticed, if I look down at the frets when the bass is in playing position on my lap, the frets *look* straight ......



Thanks for the info about the pre-amp voicing! Didn't know that was an option, I'll check into & do some experimenting when I get the chance :thumbsup:

Glad to hear the action is getting dialed in nicely. I always feel I don't have my action truly dialed in until at least 3-4 after owning a new bass. I feel like it takes time for the truss rod and neck woods to finally get settled into their new positions without wanting to creep back to what they used to be.

Same with me regarding the frets from a playing position - from the player's perspective, it's hard to tell any difference at all that the frets are not parallel.

Somewhere a while back in this thread there was some discussion about the voicing options of the current Ibanez preamp module. Here's a post where I talk about how I moved mine. Basically, I am using the BEQ3 port (I think it's called). IME, it gives me a little more top end and a slight gain boost. I liked what it does, but easy enough to move it right back if I want to undo it. It's as simple as unplugging a connector port cable from one set of pins over to another set of pins. A 5-second mod. :thumbsup:
 
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Glad to hear the action is getting dialed in nicely. I always feel I don't have my action truly dialed in until at least 3-4 after owning a new bass. I feel like it takes time for the truss rod and neck woods to finally get settled into their new positions without wanting to creep back to what they used to be.

Same with me regarding the frets from a playing position - from the player's perspective, it's hard to tell any difference at all that the frets are not parallel.

Somewhere a while back in this thread there was some discussion about the voicing options of the current Ibanez preamp module. Here's a post where I talk about how I moved mine. Basically, I am using the BEQ3 port (I think it's called). IME, it gives me a little more top end and a slight gain boost. I liked what it does, but easy enough to move it right back if I want to undo it. It's as simple as unplugging a connector port cable from one set of pins over to another set of pins. A 5-second mod. :thumbsup:


Thanks, I remember that convo now.....when I get the chance, I'll check to see how mine is setup :)
 
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Thanks, I remember that convo now.....when I get the chance, I'll check to see how mine is setup :)

I've seen some TB discussion on how the BH2 seems on the darker side of the tone spectrum. I generally agree with that - and it makes sense since the BH2 pickups are wired in Series rather than parallel. Some TB'ers have re-wired them in parallel and seem to be happy with the results, while others like myself find the preamp voicing options quite sufficient if you find you want slightly more high end & overall output from the stock pickups. I've bounced back & forth on the voicing mod and find I like the tone I get from the BEQ3 output a little better. It works better for my tastes & through my current gear. :thumbsup:
 
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Here's a question for the group; will a replacement neck from any SR model fit the body of any SR model of the same string count? Im looking at a replacment neck from a Prestige line SR2605, the 15-piece neck, as a bit of an upgrade for a Standard line SR 5 string.
 
Here's a question for the group; will a replacement neck from any SR model fit the body of any SR model of the same string count? Im looking at a replacment neck from a Prestige line SR2605, the 15-piece neck, as a bit of an upgrade for a Standard line SR 5 string.
it won't fit any, it has to have the same dimensions which you may be able to tell by looking at which way the heel joint angles. i have a 1993 sr1300 neck on my 1989 sr800.
 
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