Yes, - it’s also very difficult to measure with the bevelled end.
NB: those are not the original strap buttons - these are bigger
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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
Yes, - it’s also very difficult to measure with the bevelled end.
NB: those are not the original strap buttons - these are bigger
It is hard to imagine that in this era of CNC manufacturing that there should be a single mm of difference between identical models. Maybe the quantities are small enough for these that some work is still done by hand.
I am planing to make this string through, at an angle to reach the end of the bass to get 30", so that gives me a good excuse to move the bridge. I am still working out how to precisely measure the angle so that all the holes on the end come out even.
I am planing to make this string through, at an angle to reach the end of the bass to get 30", so that gives me a good excuse to move the bridge. I am still working out how to precisely measure the angle so that all the holes on the end come out even.
I’ve also see seen strap button drilled at every angle from left, straight & right.
And the holes drilled for the pickguard we’re not exactly precision engineering
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Now it might just be variances in the camera angle between the pics, but it looks like the end of the ruler is further North on the black bass.
If it is true though, the distance could be more than only 2 mm between the two basses.
What would it be like if the end of the ruler was held up against the middle of the South end of the bridge, and possibly even perpendicular to the surface of the body ?
However, doing that would require one or two extra hands, wouldn't it ?
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Now it might just be variances in the camera angle between the pics, but it looks like the end of the ruler is further North on the black bass.
If it is true though, the distance could be more than only 2 mm between the two basses.
What would it be like if the end of the ruler was held up against the middle of the South end of the bridge, and possibly even perpendicular to the surface of the body ?
However, doing that would require one or two extra hands, wouldn't it ?
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Yes - the disparity is a tad greater than shown on the black bass - I just ran out of hands when measuring.
I’m also having the intonation issue. After reading this post, Bridge placement, it would appear I need to move the bridge 1/4”-3/8” away from the neck
First pic is saddle all the way up, second pic is all the way down. Measurement is from the neck side of the nut.
Just want to make sure I am reading everything correctly, because I’ll probably end up not using this hipshot bridge if that’s the case. It would wind up hanging off the end of the bass
First pic is saddle all the way up, second pic is all the way down. Measurement is from the neck side of the nut.
Just want to make sure I am reading everything correctly, because I’ll probably end up not using this hipshot bridge if that’s the case. It would wind up hanging off the end of the bass
Hmm... 28.25" - 28.75" should, in theory, be fine for intonation on a 28.5" scale string. Assuming "normal" tension, of course. It gets weird with "floppy" strings.
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OK, so let me recap :
The pics are of the Hipshot bridge, mounted using the original bridge's holes in the body.
One pic is with the length bolt set for the saddle at its farthest travel, and the other at its nearest, from the head of the bolt.
If this was MY bass and bridge, here's what I would first try doing :
Loosen the E string off at the tuner.
Try to loosen the length bolt of the E string all of the way, so that the saddle falls off the bridge.
Pull out the bolt.
Remove the spring.
Reassemble without the spring, tune up, and see what the travel is now.
If it is now possible to pull the saddle back further than before, and you can get correct intonation on the E string, leave it that way, or cut the spring and put only a part of it back onto the bolt.
If this all is successful, then repeat the above steps for the A, and for the other strings if necessary.
Cheers !
PS : Did the original bridge have the same problem of intonation ?
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The G string is the only one it’s currently close to being intonated correctly, the rest of the saddles are all the way down tight against the springs. Before I do something irreversible like cutting springs, I think I’m going to put the original bridge on and see how it does. If I remember correctly, it also had an intonation problem, but I didn’t wanna worry about it until I changed the bridge and the strings.~
OK, so let me recap :
The pics are of the Hipshot bridge, mounted using the original bridge's holes in the body.
One pic is with the length bolt set for the saddle at its farthest travel, and the other at its nearest, from the head of the bolt.
If this was MY bass and bridge, here's what I would first try doing :
Loosen the E string off at the tuner.
Try to loosen the length bolt of the E string all of the way, so that the saddle falls off the bridge.
Pull out the bolt.
Remove the spring.
Reassemble without the spring, tune up, and see what the travel is now.
If it is now possible to pull the saddle back further than before, and you can get correct intonation on the E string, leave it that way, or cut the spring and put only a part of it back onto the bolt.
If this all is successful, then repeat the above steps for the A, and for the other strings if necessary.
Cheers !
PS : Did the original bridge have the same problem of intonation ?
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So, original bridge and strings are back on, and I’m able to get it intonated.
Pics of the G saddle measurements for reference
Pics of the G saddle measurements for reference
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Cutting springs was only an option, as I'm sure that they are not essential to the design of these bridges, so removing one as an experiment would cause no harm.
Anyway, I see your pics with the original bridge now.
Other than the G in the second pic, are all of the saddles in positions of correct intonation ?
The G saddle in the first pic is at pretty much 28.6", and even without the string installed, this is where I would expect the G saddle to need to be, and each of the others gradually further South, as we move across and the strings become heavier.
BTW, what gauges are your strings, and make and model ?
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Something else which I noticed :
Bassamatic says that it is 28+1/8" from nut to [what I think is] the North end of his bridge plate.
YOUR pics show 28+5/16" for that measurement.
That suggests a deviation of 3/16" between the two instruments, assuming that you both are measuring in the same manner, and that there is no variation in the dimensions of the bridge plate and its mounting holes' locations.
Prob'ly, the measurement which ought to matter most would be from the edge of the nut nearest to the frets, to the centre line of the row of screws which mount the bridge assembly.
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No, I took the pics when I was stringing it up, hadn’t intonated it yet. The strings are the stock ones that came on it, and you’re correct about the saddle positions, G intonates near the top of it’s travel
Edit - When the Hipshot was on it, I had Rotosound flats RS77S 40 - 90 on it
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Ah, so maybe post a followup pic of it after you intonated ?
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My stock bridge measures 3-1/8 (maybe 3-5/32) X 1-3/4, distance from fretboard side of nut to bridge screw center looks to be 29-9/16
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That might influence the results, as to where each saddle may need to be set for correct intonation.
You changed TWO variables at the same time - the bridge AND the strings - so it's inconclusive which made how much of the difference in your observations.
That said, both of those sets of strings are lighter than average gauges.
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It’s really absurd that everyone thinks that mass production machines making cheap instruments don’t have some variance in their tolerances. A couple millimeters difference is probably acceptable to a company building instruments on the other side of the planet and then shipping them all over to sell for under $200.
I just got a new pickguard for my Mini.
I just got a new pickguard for my Mini.
I agree. There are also many MIM Fenders with misplaced bridges, usually left or right though. That's unacceptable at the MIM price point, I'll let the Mini P slide.
Machines are only as good as the people operating them.
