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Thunderbird Club

I have noticed that many bass players, and my teacher counseled me to do this, play with their wrist bent at quite a sharp angle.* Although this may aid in reaching across frets, it is not good posture for the hand and can cause some chronic damage. I already have enough hand issues; I will not be playing with difficult posture.

*this angle will result in problems.
feb08-frethand_fig8.jpg


My wrist is just about straight when I play.
 
I've been trying to narrow down the year for my first Thunderbird, the burst bolt-on.
It's pre-2006, Korean-made, based on the layout of the pickups (the end with the double screws are on the bass-side, instead of the treble-side like '07+ Chinese 'birds).
But the original neck-plate was gone when I got it, so not sure of the year. It has an unusual bridge, with noticeably more radius arch than any of the other 3-points I've had.


Other than that, the only thing I've really got to go on is the wiring, I thought maybe one of you might be able to help me narrow it down. If not, it's not super important, just curious to see if I can figure it out :)





So....wiring pics.

This first one is of the Thunderbird Classic IV in question:

View attachment 4704061


Neck pot is wired to bridge pot, which is wired to tone pot.
Orange cap with no markings.
Pots have brown boards, output jack is yellow-ish.
Black sleeves over the pickup wires.







This second pic is from my "Redbird", 2006 made in Korea, Custom Shop Classic IV

View attachment 4704062



Neck pot is wired to bridge pot, and to tone pot. Bridge pot not wired to tone pot.
Slightly darker orange cap of same shape/size as the previous, also no markings.
Pots have brown boards, as does the output jack.
Pickups now have different colored covers for the wires; I've not had the pickups out to verify, but based on the way they're wired, red for neck, black for bridge.
Pickups also of the Korean layout, double screws on the bass side, single on the treble side.







Last pic is of the only other "regular" Classic IV I've had, an early 2007 made in China model.
From what I could find when I had it, these were a bit unique, as they had different pickup spacing from the earlier Korean-built bolt-on Thunderbirds, and from the later ones built in China.

View attachment 4704063


Neck pot is wired to tone pot. Bridge pot wired to tone pot. They've no wiring to each other.
Pot & jack board color appears different, lighter, than the Korean 'birds. Stamping on casings appears different, also.
I've had the pickups out in this one and verified, the wiring colors for the pickups is red for neck pickup, black for bridge.
Tone pot cap is green, similar shape to the previous orange caps, and has visible writing - "2A683J" - on one side.
Pickups are typical Chinese-style, double screw end is on the treble side, with single on the bass side, backwards from the Korean 'birds (my 2008 Blackbird has pickups oriented the same way, with the same color-coding for the pickup wiring)





So, it looks like the only real difference in the three is the way they are wired. And the cap on the '07.






Any ideas, suggestions, comments?

:)
In spite of the outstanding photos and detailed descriptions I don’t have any idea on the production dates. If you figure out the tell tale sign please share it with us.

I need to get one!
Just to be clear, when you say you need to get one, are you referring to Dagan or the Bass?
 
I have noticed that many bass players, and my teacher counseled me to do this, play with their wrist bent at quite a sharp angle.* Although this may aid in reaching across frets, it is not good posture for the hand and can cause some chronic damage. I already have enough hand issues; I will not be playing with difficult posture.

*this angle will result in problems.
feb08-frethand_fig8.jpg

No way play like this
My wrist is hurting just seeing this :eek:

My way

vwvqwe.png
 
Last edited:
I have noticed that many bass players, and my teacher counseled me to do this, play with their wrist bent at quite a sharp angle.* Although this may aid in reaching across frets, it is not good posture for the hand and can cause some chronic damage. I already have enough hand issues; I will not be playing with difficult posture.

*this angle will result in problems.
feb08-frethand_fig8.jpg
"Difficult Posture". Band name?
 
So I recently got a Rickenbacker 650D treble geetar and I’m loving it.

I had also planned to also get a NR firebird, but I could only find overpriced custom shop models. (With reportedly poopy pickups, and without banjo tuners)

I ordered some celluloid material to replace the Ric pickguard and it finally arrived and was not the thickness I had ordered. And I’m super pissed about it.

So in a fit of rage, I ordered a mahogany NR firebird body that takes 7ender necks. Since I have a couple laying about anyway….

she will be routed for a single P90, tuna-matic bridge, no tailpiece, rear routed with vol/tone/jack.

I feel better now.

so same dude I got the DCbird body from…

last time he must have been way behind because I think it was 6 weeks or so before I got it.

I should have this one in 3 or so…



this body


probably this neck or a maple telecaster

 
In spite of the outstanding photos and detailed descriptions I don’t have any idea on the production dates. If you figure out the tell tale sign please share it with us.


Just to be clear, when you say you need to get one, are you referring to Dagan or the Bass?

Bass, the beard just doesn’t do it for me….
 
Just to be clear, I do it just to be a dick.

That’s my motivation for all I do.

I thought it had something to do with your feet, didn't mention it as I was trying to be polite.
 
There were questions about shaving a neck here recently. After getting my ESP/GrassRoots BassIV with it's V-profile neck (and really digging it) I thought I'd do that profile on my Glam PJ.

Here's a short step-by-step on how I did it.

I used my contour gauge to determine both profiles at 1/2 way between the nut and the 1st fret. I was surprised at how little difference there was. It reminded me that our left-hand "feel" is very sensitive to minute differences. So as much as it's a V profile - it's a soft V - but still very noticeable.
upload_2022-5-29_13-51-7.jpeg

Here's the contour guage impression of the Bass IV - right side is off but incrementally so... it's only so accurate. Still looks 'U' but it slopes from the crest subtly as the illustration above shows.
upload_2022-5-29_13-54-53.jpeg

I cut a guide out of scrap wood as the contour guide moves. Plus, it didn't scar the wood as metal tangs would.
upload_2022-5-29_13-58-3.jpeg

Still a bit off - I used a combination of flat-blades and sand-paper (P50 & 120) and checked often for progress. When flat-blading, I made sure to do broad passes down the neck to keep the transition smooth.
upload_2022-5-29_14-0-6.jpeg

The contour gauge on the BassIV -
upload_2022-5-29_14-4-46.jpeg

...and on the Glam PJ - sorted! I didn't take pics of the GPJ before - but it was a more rounded "baseball-bat" profile. Once the desired soft V profile was achieved I did the 220 sanding, and a few wipe-on satin poly coats. (which is how I treated it originally years ago) It is an AllParts Fender Authorized 1 piece maple J neck. I only focused on the first position area because that's where I noticed the different the most.
upload_2022-5-29_14-5-37.jpeg

Hope this helps anyone wondering if they themselves can fine-tune their necks. As long as you are patient and cross-check as you're doing it - it's possible and frankly having your neck be the way you like it is huge. For me it makes or breaks a bass.
 
There were questions about shaving a neck here recently. After getting my ESP/GrassRoots BassIV with it's V-profile neck (and really digging it) I thought I'd do that profile on my Glam PJ.

Here's a short step-by-step on how I did it.

I used my contour gauge to determine both profiles at 1/2 way between the nut and the 1st fret. I was surprised at how little difference there was. It reminded me that our left-hand "feel" is very sensitive to minute differences. So as much as it's a V profile - it's a soft V - but still very noticeable.
View attachment 4704916
Here's the contour guage impression of the Bass IV - right side is off but incrementally so... it's only so accurate. Still looks 'U' but it slopes from the crest subtly as the illustration above shows.
View attachment 4704917
I cut a guide out of scrap wood as the contour guide moves. Plus, it didn't scar the wood as metal tangs would.
View attachment 4704919
Still a bit off - I used a combination of flat-blades and sand-paper (P50 & 120) and checked often for progress. When flat-blading, I made sure to do broad passes down the neck to keep the transition smooth.
View attachment 4704923
The contour gauge on the BassIV -
View attachment 4704927
...and on the Glam PJ - sorted! I didn't take pics of the GPJ before - but it was a more rounded "baseball-bat" profile. Once the desired soft V profile was achieved I did the 220 sanding, and a few wipe-on satin poly coats. (which is how I treated it originally years ago) It is an AllParts Fender Authorized 1 piece maple J neck. I only focused on the first position area because that's where I noticed the different the most.
View attachment 4704928
Hope this helps anyone wondering if they themselves can fine-tune their necks. As long as you are patient and cross-check as you're doing it - it's possible and frankly having your neck be the way you like it is huge. For me it makes or breaks a bass.
Or one of these?:rolleyes::bag:
upload_2022-5-29_17-35-38.jpeg