Thunderbird Club

[GBassNorth]

Well it seems like I was able to fix it. At least for now. At a friend's suggestion, I took off the bridge, screwed down a bolt about halfway, put a small block of wood on top, and lightly hammered and it went back down. We'll see if it holds, but I put the bridge back on and restrung.

View attachment 4787742

That will reseat the insert but likely not permanently. Just keep a close eye on it. If it starts to lift out again it’ll need a more permanent fix. If it lifts out too far it runs the risk of elongating the insert hole making it more difficult to fix with mere glue.

For amusement purposes only. The bolt hole alignment.

View attachment 4787743

Yikes! As long as the pups and neck are all in alignment with the bridge I guess it’s ok, but it sure makes one wonder about quality control that day.

Will wood glue grip a nonporous material (ferrule)? I wouldn't think so, so just checking.

Nope (you’re correct) Wood glue will fill in the flutes of the insert stud, which will offer a bit of resistance in pulling out but won’t actually bond the metal stud to the wood. The studs are a friction fit item, the more friction the tighter the fit and less prone to failure. One way to make the hole a tighter fit is to insert some wood pieces along with wood glue into the hole, then when dry reinsert the stud. One way to increase the friction is to bond the metal stud to the wood body with epoxy. I’m not a fan of the epoxy route because it’s too permanent. The wood glue and wood filler pieces usually works as long as the hole isn’t too badly deformed from the stud pulling out.

Not driving in the rain explains why you are still alive...

I am always amused that the 911 evolved from the Beetle (and the lineage is clear to anyone with eyes.

Greyhound vs boxer. Except that the greyhound can run in the rain without crashing.

To be a bit more accurate…

The wire isn't actually under the bridge like flat-mount style bridges (even though that's technically what the Babicz is, but its mounting is still based on the 3-point) - it's in the hole with the ferrule, ime pinned between it and the wall of the hole..

Not always easy to spot, as it's usually mashed flat, nearly embedded into the wood.

Excellent catch Kara! The stud that lifted was on the control cavity side (I hadn’t noticed that before, darn lefty’s), so it will be the one with the ground wire. If the hum went away he likely regained contact with the ground wire when he tapped the stud back into place. That might indicate that the wire is very near the bottom of the stud hole. If the stud pulls up again I’d recommend pulling the stud all the way out, pulling more of the ground wire up into the stud hole, and removing a bit more of the insulation so more wire can potentially contact the stud when it’s reinserted.

 

[BklynKen]

That will reseat the insert but likely not permanently. Just keep a close eye on it. If it starts to lift out again it’ll need a more permanent fix. If it lifts out too far it runs the risk of elongating the insert hole making it more difficult to fix with mere glue.

Temporary is all I need. As soon as another run of left-handed basses comes out I'm sending this back.

 

[PillO]

Temporary is all I need. As soon as another run of left-handed basses comes out I'm sending this back.

Might be better to take it back so that you can select the replacement.

Edit - and be sure to lick the replacement you want so that no one else will take it. (anyone with siblings will understand)

 

[Engle]

Will wood glue grip a nonporous material (ferrule)? I wouldn't think so, so just checking.

No it swells the surrounding wood a little bit and then hardens, holding the ferrule a bit tighter.

 

[Engle]

To be a bit more accurate…
View attachment 4787880

.

And there was some parallel evolution:

 

[GBassNorth]

Temporary is all I need. As soon as another run of left-handed basses comes out I'm sending this back.

Makes sense. I guess if you mod anything to fix it permanently they might refuse a return or refund. Kinda over a barrel on that one.

When my Eppi stud lifted I tapped it back in, lasted about a day. Then I used the wood glue and toothpick hack. That lasted a few days. Then I used gorilla glue and toothpicks, came out after a couple of days. So I said the heck with it and bought a Hipshot bridge and modded it with countersunk screws, that was two years ago, zero lift.

I hope your fix holds, and they get you a replacement soon!

 

[Hondapunk]

And there was some parallel evolution:
View attachment 4787907

Man when I was growing up Karmann Ghias were a dime a dozen and everywhere.Now I don't see them anywhere. Cool car.

 

[BklynKen]

If you are wondering how strong duct tape really is. Too bad they didn't do a watermelon for PillO's benefit. Or dismay.

 

[PaleAngel_90]

LOL - it’s not bad for a beater. She’ll likely go up for sale in a few months if you’re interested.

Why would you sell the Porsche? Too expensive to maintain?

 

[PaleAngel_90]

Drove one of these once…..will never forget…
View attachment 4787516

Slow, dizzy, jittery, rattly ride?

 

[PillO]

If you are wondering how strong duct tape really is.

That was far more duct tape than a normal person would use.

Too bad they didn't do a watermelon for PillO's benefit. Or dismay.

It can be both.

 

[GBassNorth]

Why would you sell the Porsche? Too expensive to maintain?

Not too expensive so far. But then again I base my car purchases pretty much on the fun to drive quotient. Maintenance costs are to a large degree just the price of admission to drive a car I love. All Porsches are expensive to maintain compared to a Toyota and cheap compared to a Lamborghini, so it’s relative. Good news is they are very very reliable so repair costs are very rare.

I’m considering selling the 911 because it has substantially appreciated in value in the last five years (almost triple what I paid for it). I’m getting tired of having to increase insurance every 6 months to keep up with replacement cost values. While at the same time trying to keep the mileage down by not driving it as much as I’d like. It’s about time to cash in the investment and purchase something I can use on or off road more often.

 

[BklynKen]

Might be better to take it back so that you can select the replacement.

Edit - and be sure to lick the replacement you want so that no one else will take it. (anyone with siblings will understand)

That would certainly be fun.

 

[GBassNorth]

Might be better to take it back so that you can select the replacement.

Edit - and be sure to lick the replacement you want so that no one else will take it. (anyone with siblings will understand)

LOL - I remember my Dad handing my younger brother and I a candy bar to share. My brother promptly took the wrapper off and ran his slobbering wet tongue the full length of bar, then asked me if I wanted some. I said sure and he handed me the bar in complete disbelief. I promptly turned it over and ran my tongue the full length of the other side, handed it back to him and told him to enjoy it. He just looked at it in his hand as tears started to well up in his eyes. I reminded him that Karma is a bitch.

 

[PillO]

That would certainly be fun.

Yeah... Long & McQuade keep throwing me out for licking basses...

 

[PillO]

Yeah... Long & McQuade keep throwing me out for licking basses...

I was inspired by Gene.

 

[RedVee]

(Rapidly Fanning face with a white lace fan and clutching my car keys - while saying in my best Southern Belle voice)…
Mercy me! I think I’ve been overcome by a case of the vapors! Quick, take me to the fainting couch!

Yea, I see the similarity, they both have four wheels and a steering wheel and they’re both kinda blue.
I’ll keep mine, thanks…
View attachment 4787467

Yes, but I was thinking more along the rear engine sports line.

The Renault associates Alpine went more towards a Frenchie 911.
Low volume, rear engined sports car. Also labelled a tail wagger.
The A110 (pictured) used the R8 Gordini engine (the square jigger) through the 60s into the early 70s

 

[BklynKen]

I was inspired by Gene.

The rare Gibson Licker.

 

[KaraQ]

.......

Nope (you’re correct) Wood glue will fill in the flutes of the insert stud, which will offer a bit of resistance in pulling out but won’t actually bond the metal stud to the wood. The studs are a friction fit item, the more friction the tighter the fit and less prone to failure. One way to make the hole a tighter fit is to insert some wood pieces along with wood glue into the hole, then when dry reinsert the stud. One way to increase the friction is to bond the metal stud to the wood body with epoxy. I’m not a fan of the epoxy route because it’s too permanent. The wood glue and wood filler pieces usually works as long as the hole isn’t too badly deformed from the stud pulling out.

..............

When my Eppi stud lifted I tapped it back in, lasted about a day. Then I used the wood glue and toothpick hack. That lasted a few days. Then I used gorilla glue and toothpicks, came out after a couple of days. .......

The only 'bird I've had to glue the inserts for is my CP.

Holes were just too waller'd (maybe that's how that's spelled? ) out.

I agree that wood glue isn't quite enough at that point, but I also didn't want the permanence of epoxy - so I compromised.....

I used bits of bamboo skewers, like I've used on others without glue, and added a few drops of Super Glue (yes, the brand-name kind ). Quickly tapped the inserts in, and no problems since.

In this instance, i feel the Super Glue should be a nice middle ground with better holding ability than wood glue, but not quite as permanent as epoxy, should I have a pressing need to remove the inserts at some point.


imo

...........

Excellent catch Kara! The stud that lifted was on the control cavity side (I hadn’t noticed that before, darn lefty’s), so it will be the one with the ground wire. If the hum went away he likely regained contact with the ground wire when he tapped the stud back into place. That might indicate that the wire is very near the bottom of the stud hole. If the stud pulls up again I’d recommend pulling the stud all the way out, pulling more of the ground wire up into the stud hole, and removing a bit more of the insulation so more wire can potentially contact the stud when it’s reinserted.

Those I've worked on always had plenty of bare wire showing (those that had wires at all..... ), but it's a valid point to check & adjust if needed, if the insert's already out anyways

 

[Miles_ONeal]

Yup, price was good on it and dropped $150.00 this week. It's neck thru, I'm really excited to see it!

No modules? I know they aren't necessary, just wondered.