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Thunderbird Club

Andy Field of Mesa, who was the designer at Genz-Benz, and Jeff Genzler co-designed the new pedals. Andy solicited opinions over in the Mesa thread and received some good suggestions.

For in your face distortion, this is a nice, reasonably priced option.
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I have a couple distortion pedals ('80s vintage RAT and an Ibanez Tube Screamer) somewhere in a box and one MXR Bass Fuzz Deluxe on my pedal-board. I use the fuzz on Skyfall and 2000 Light Years From Home. My MXR d.i.+ has a distortion switch which I use on Maps. Minimal use but they are very effective when added. I like pedals that cater to bass like that Bass Big Muff. I'd like to try it one day. I saw a band where the bass-player played through two vintage Big Muffs.
 
Second gig on the Epi Embassy tonight. I'm also providing/running the PA, so I may be concentrating mostly on that, plus I'll be using a different amp(R100 instead of R200c). Still, my impression after the first gig-last Saturday-was TBird-y tone for less $$$ and no risk of flying HS.
ADDENDUM:
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On another note(B):
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Embassy working out well except I hafta to work harder to hit someone up side o' the head with it. Gots to find better EQ settings on the amp(very difficult to get to while we're playing).
 
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Sorry about the medical thing, I get it, just lost my mom last month. Please, no condolences ya'll, sometimes that brings back the grief.

So many questions, is that a stock Warmoth neck build, or did you use the select wood option? Is the body from that Ebay site? What weight is it? How are you going to move the PUPs? Are you done with the VTVT experiment, or are you going to run it VVT given that the Embassies are VBT? Sorry, that's it for now.
This one is not a Warmoth neck build.
I’ve used those in the past for necks and found the special wood builds to be top notch quality but way over priced. My cost goal on this bass is to complete it for the market price of a new VP or less. Basically, I’m tired of waiting for Eppi to put out a VP NR, so I’m doing it myself. The neck is an EBay purchase from China and costs about one seventh of what Warmoth would charge ($80 delivered vs $575). It looks to be good quality, no warps, no humps, no twists, truss seems to work good, frets finished nicely, no sprout, nice wood grain and finish, I’ll probably roll the edges a bit more, fits the bass body like a tight glove.

The body is from Rosser guitars on eBay.
The down side with Rosser is he doesn’t seem to want to do anything custom, at all, under any circumstances. I asked for specific pup locations, no go. I offered to pay full price for a body with pup route delete, control knob hole delete, and bridge screw hole deletes, even that was a no go. So word to the wise - it’s a great looking body, very nice wood and perfect neck pocket, very high quality but zero flexibility on layout. Fortunately the bridge pup route is exactly where I wanted it. I will move the neck pup route closer to the bridge, but that’s not an issue since it’s all under the pickguard. I plan on using a VP two part bridge so I’ll have to fill the bridge drilling he did, but again that’s not a problem since I’ll be going with an opaque painted finish not a transparent stain. Delivered cost was a very decent $120.

The control pot drilling he provides dictates a three knob layout.
I’m looking at how best to do that with a two pickup bass, right now I’m leaning towards a stacked vol/tone pot for each pickup (by far the best control system I’ve ever used on a bird) and then address it’s one shortcoming by routing the output to a master stacked pot where the top knob is master volume control and the bottom knob is a dummy. This would theoretically allow me to set the proper volume and tone for each individual pup and then control the output volume from there with just one knob.

The Epiphone VP pickups, spacers, trim rings, two part bridge, strap pins, and output jack cost a total of about $150. Yanked from a $250 embassy donor. The excellent condition remaining embassy husk (which is for sale) will be sold for about $100 including the original tuners, pick guard, controls and new gig bag.

So I’m in it for about $400 so far (including a NR pickguard) and just need to buy a few bits more (pots, knobs, tuners, strings) and then the finishing so about $800 all in when done, which is very close to the original goal.
 
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I've found that lowering the pickup does work well for me - keep in mind I play hard and was overloading the front end of my amp, this helped me a lot, you may not need to go to such measures.
I often overload the front end of my amp, but that's how I get my distortion most of the time. It's definitely worth trying different pickup heights.
 
So this Thunderbird talk has me thinking of dipping my toe in the water.

Any opinion on these joints? ...

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Thanks
:)

The current model is quite nice and not that much more than a used one. If you decide to buy used just note that there was one year where the bridge wasn’t properly located making it difficult to intonate the E string properly. Overall, they are definitely in the Tbird sonic range (exact same pickups as the highly valued VP Tbird bass) maybe a hair warmer sounding.
 
gotta tin first…. makes all the diff..,,
Yup. Tinning is crucial to a good solder joint, and pretty much life or death to the connection with braid. Have enough braid unwrapped you can hold it in needle nosed pliers or hemostats as a heat sink so the heat doesn’t melt the inner wire’s insulation. Hold it with those for a few seconds after tinning and after soldering for the same reason.